Jump to content

Making Moulding with a dremel


beccas1963

Recommended Posts

Good afternoon all!!!!!

Today is my 1/2 day from work and decided to make some moulding to go around my doorways and windows.

A friend of mine wanted me to post pics so I put some in the gallery.

You can buy moulding like this at HBS Item #7044. But I like to try to make my own most times and I can get the wood cheaper at the local train shop and since I have a dremel well why not. The wood is 1/2 inch wide and 1/8 thick. Same thickness as the boughten piece.

I do have to confess I dont know what bit I am using I picked up a bunch at a yard sale quite a while ago and they werent in packages lol. So if anyone knows let me know.

And like it says it usually takes me a few scrap pieces to get my groove going... no pun intended lol.

Hope this helps someone.

Hugs,

Bec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First thank you Irene.

I would clamp an L on it for a straight edge. I just got some router bits I hope I'll be able to do the same. :congrats:

And yeah I guess so but this is what I been doing and it works lol. What kind of router bits? Ones for minis? Do tell!!!

Bec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice!! How wide is the cut and how wide is the whole piece? Have you done any other mouldings? Making your own has got to be a real money saver. I have been thinking about trying it for awhile but probably won't get to it anytime soon. Thanks for sharing!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice!! How wide is the cut and how wide is the whole piece? Have you done any other mouldings? Making your own has got to be a real money saver. I have been thinking about trying it for awhile but probably won't get to it anytime soon. Thanks for sharing!

Thanks!! glad you like it. the width of the wood is 1/2 inch and the thickness is 1/8 inch. the lines are 1/8 from each edge.

it is a money saver and a time saver for me anyways. And you can do it!!!!!!

Bec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

QUOTE(sunshines_minis @ Jun 7 2007, 03:46 PM)

I would clamp an L on it for a straight edge. I just got some router bits I hope I'll be able to do the same.

Why don't you just clamp a straight board on like Becca did for the straight edge?

It looks excellent to me. Good job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very cool. I just got a workstation for mother's day. So I'm guessing you just run the wood across, similar to a table saw? Thanks for the tip and the pics.

Cindi yup! that be it. and what is a work station?

Bec

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First of all, NICE! Becca, you never cease to amaze me! I see you used your drill press. I have a router table I got from Sears but so far the only routing I've dont have been channels in table tops to run the stringers between the lega I turned on the old lathe. I did find an assortment of mini drill bits at Harbor Freight and it's just a p

matter of my breaking down and setting up one of the rotary tools to play with.

I did find mini router bits for the rotary tool online at http://www.widgetsupply.com .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I'm getting this right you're lying the work piece flat between the 2 clamped bits, and using the cutter end on. Essentially you're using the bit as an end mill. You're not routing the piece, you're milling it. A vera kewel idea. Looks great. I'd definitely recommend sticking to soft wood and a slow feed rate since the Dremel is a direct drive system and the motor aint built for lateral loads. I have 2 mills, a real one and one made from the Unimat system (plus a knock off, this one's in the Organized Work Area thread) and neither is direct drive. The real one (a Sieg) is gear drive and the Unimat is belt. The countershaft is designed to take the lateral loads, the gears or belt ensure the motor gets none.

BTW, I'd love to know what the bit was you used (I know you don't know) but a milling cutter that fine would be great to have.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like to make my own molding. When I see a router table at a yard sale cheap, I get it & convert it to hold a Dremel. I have 2 that I use & have made a couple for my friends. I just created an album titled 'Mini Tools' where I try to show how I did it.

You can get dremel router bits on Ebay or at your local building supply store. Some of the bits on Ebay may be called end mills. Just make sure they will fit a Dremel. When I have free time, I make a batch of various types of molding & that way I hopefully have what I need when I want it. I start with a 1" by 4" board & use my 4" table saw to cut it into 1" by 1" square stock. This way I get rid of all my scrap boards I have laying around. By changing bits & adjusting the cuts, you can make almost any kind of molding you could think of.

Remember...Always use safety glasses & gloves with power tools. Last Dec. I had a serious injury to one finger while using a full size router, due to a hidden knot in a board. The dr. said that if I didn't have gloves on, I probably would have lost 2 fingers!!

So...check out my mini tools & I will try to add to this as I can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cindi yup! that be it. and what is a work station?

Bec

The work station is made by dremel and looks like what you have in your pictures. I've been a little intimidated as what to do with it yet, now I see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steve when I was trying to figure out my mini tools I found your instructions on line and they were great. Alas I am a visual person and I still do not have a clue how to use my mini router, but I am going to a class at home depot net week. They said I could bring my mini tools and the instructer will teach me how to use the router! I love the classes at lows and home depot, most of them are free. They have classes for kids too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Holly...I just search Ebay for Dremel or Dremel router bits & those came up. The guy who sells them usually sells 5 of one size per auction, but I have seen him sell misc. sizes, like 3 of one size & 2 of another. I have about 6 or 8 different sizes. They often call these 'end mills' You just have to look at the shank size to be sure it will fit your dremel. As soon as I can I will search my Ebay & see if I can find the seller's name. They also make miniature router bits just like the full size ones. You can get like round-over, cove, ogee, etc. I have gotten some at Lowe's, but they are expensive. They were like 5-8 dollars each.

You can see in my album "How I did it" that I use a dremel with the hole cutter attachment to cut in for the look of floor boards & clapboard siding. You will notice that after using a dremel, you need to sand the piece very good. I use a small palm sander with 150 grit paper. This seems to work well for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just checked Ebay & all I did was search 'dremel router bits' & a bunch came up. The one I show in my album is listed as dremel router bit from pc construction. There was 1 guy who is selling them by the pound, which I think is a good deal. Just be sure that the bits you get are 1/8" shank & that they are router bits...not drill bits.

Anything else I can help with...let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was looking at he one in the last picture that looked like a regular drill bit with tiny "teeth" along each spiral. My straight 1/8" cutting bits were like 35 cents from Widget Supply and I don't remember now what I paid for the boxed assortment I got (either Wood Crafter's or Harbor Freight, I no longer remember which, either).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good job.

I would use the Dremel # 109 or #113 1/16" Straight Engraving cutters for this job, although I think the #562 Tile Cutting bit would also do the job. I have done similar tasks using these bits and the model 231 Shaper/Router table instead of the drill press. Your drill press setup has one advantage over the shaper table, it lets you observe the groove as it is cut. With the shaper table, the bit is below the work and concealed from view (also from the fingers). You just have to have faith it is doing what you want. It also tends to contain the bit end when it breaks due to my ham-handed operstion. I'm getting better, though.

Notes to anyone trying this: 1. Make sure you have tightened the bit in the collet with the wrench to keep it from creeping deeper than you want it. 2. Watch your feed rate and let the tools high speed do the work. This will reduce the potential for bit breakage. 3. If you are using the drill press, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes if (when?) the bit breaks even though you are being careful. I break a lot of bits by getting impatient.

Sorry about that, I am talking as if I am giving a tutorial and I don't want to diminish the value of the procedure she decribed so well. I sometime revert back to being a demonstrator. It is a great technique and I applaud it

Dave GSOLFOT

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...