havanaholly

The Morris chair we had was upholstered in a napped burgundy fabric that held decades of dust! but once we got all the dust vacuumed out it sure was a great nap spot!

If the original wood wasn't primed or sealed before applying the old paper the naturally occurring acids in the wood will eventually discolor the paper & bleed through. You could give the old wallpaper a coat of primer, it it's nice & tight & smooth, and paper over that.

If you can you might want to remove the old paper to see if the wood beneath was either primed or otherwise sealed. Warm water and white vinegar sponged on the old paper with a rag ought to loosen it and that putty knife will help scrape it off. Depending on the adhesive used there might be need to sand off stubborn bits. I would also use that putty knife on the old flooring.

I like using the card stock to get the effect of folio page edges. Here's the link for Jim's site: https://www.printmini.com/printables/p1.html If you want to make pages that turn, like Joel's books, you want to use something a tad heavier than one layer of paper for the book covers.

I found this: https://www.printablerulers.net/preview/Ruler_12-inch_by_12

Welcome to the little family, Lynn. Many, many years ago there used to be a website of all the different ways people had built and finished the Buttercup. In the first Hallowe'en edition of American Miniaturist Magazine (published even then by Ashdown, out of the UK) someone had bashed two Buttercups together and inhabited it with a skeleton biker gang. The Buttercup was my first CC/ Greenleaf kit build, and I haven't looked back.

Looking at what some of those pieces are "estimated" at, not in MY budget!

Dutchie, it depends on whether you want to make realistic books with printing and pictures or whether you just want to fill a little bookcase (like I usually do). Jim's Printmini site has lots of book covers in 1:6, 1:12 and 1:24 scale; just stack and cut pieces of poster board or foam core to size and glue the covers on. 1:2 scale is a lot larger than dollhouse scale, though.

Welcome home, Louise! {hug}

It depends on the results of the dry fit and what the house wants. If I have an interior space (like a stairwell) that my hands + paintbrush will never fit once it's together forever, I go ahead and carefully lay the walls side by side to drop match any wall covering and have at it. Otherwise I prime and paint as I go.

Because mica is so brittle it might help stabilize them by laying them face down on a strip iof painter's or masking tape before scoring, and use a nail board for the sanding part.

Leslie, my SF555 came with the VHS tape and other than showing the assembly of the tongue & groove sections using masking tape it wasn't much help to me.

Have you thought about a 1:12 working Morris chair?

It depends on Zelda, of course.

Oh, bless your heart! I will probably reupholster it and place it temporarily in the Brimble's store until I finish (ha!) the Lily I started for F Scott & Zelda (who are presently enjoying the art books).