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lowens22

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Does anyone have any ideas on what I can use besides 3/8 MDF? There doesn't seem to be any in the state of Florida. We haven't had any hurricanes this year :banana: , so there should be plenty of it.

Has anyone tried a marine supply place and had any luck?

Susan

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Despite its rising popularity, MDF can be difficult to find, particularly at only 3/8 thickness. I just checked the websites I order wood from, but they don't have it either. You might try searching the internet for manufacturers. Their websites will often provide a list of distributors you can buy from.

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Does anyone have any ideas on what I can use besides 3/8 MDF? There doesn't seem to be any in the state of Florida. We haven't had any hurricanes this year :) , so there should be plenty of it.

Has anyone tried a marine supply place and had any luck?

Susan

Morning Lady,

Did you try both Home Depot & Lowes? I'm not sure what part of Florida you live in but when I go this weekend I'll take a look. - We usually go to one or the other every weekend

Also have you tried Woodcraft their in Pompano they may not have MDF but they sure carry lots of nice wood.

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Can you use plywood?? I like to use the Luan plywood. It is cheap & easy to work with. I have even used half inch plywood on some of my projects. Another thought , how about some wall panneling. You should be able to find that in any size & price.

Steve

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Hi Betty,

Not dumb at all - I wondered the same thing when I first heard it referenced to on the television on a home improvement show. It stands for Medium Density Fiber board.. It's got a real nice smooth finish and is quite versitle - that's about all I know about it except that I got a couple of dollhouse kits made from this stuff - it's nice.. in it's own way - but personally I prefer working with the luan ply kits.

-David :loveletter:

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It's cheap too, though you'd never believe based on the price of Dollshouse Emporium's kits. I haven't ever looked for it in 3/8" thickness though, as stated I'd suspect plywood in that thickness would be easier to source. MDF is versiatile since it can be milled, I looked into using it for that reason myself, but it's evidently VERY abrasive and dulls the (expensive) end mills rapidly.

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I've tried Lowe's, Home Depot, Cox Lumber all of which are 'chain' lumber stores, with no luck. Cox lumber had it advertised on their website, but when I called the local store, they said they didn't carry it. I've been to Michael's and a couple of other local craft shops with no luck. I've done a 'broad' search on the internet, but the one's that list it all state 'call for quote'. I don't think so, I don't need a truckload :loveletter: .

I've heard that 3/8 is also used in marine building, like on boats. I'll try a couple of them tomorrow.

I've not used 3/8 before, but thought I would try if I could find it. I thought I might use it for a roombox.

If there is anything else that I can use, I'm willing to try.

Thank you all for your suggestions and help, Susan

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I've not used 3/8 before, but thought I would try if I could find it. I thought I might use it for a roombox.

If there is anything else that I can use, I'm willing to try.

Thank you all for your suggestions and help, Susan

If you're just planning to make a room box why not use plywood? MDF is not really any less expensive than plywood is - at least not in California and you can get finished plywood which is smooth on both sides - it's more pricey than rough but so is MDF. For a room box I'd probably just buy 1/4" or even 1/2" plywood. I'm curious though why desperation for MDF?? and the absolute need for 3/8" ??

-David

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If you're just planning to make a room box why not use plywood? MDF is not really any less expensive than plywood is - at least not in California and you can get finished plywood which is smooth on both sides - it's more pricey than rough but so is MDF. For a room box I'd probably just buy 1/4" or even 1/2" plywood. I'm curious though why desperation for MDF?? and the absolute need for 3/8" ??

-David

Regular plywood would be fine, if it's ok to use it. I just thought it would probably be the 'standard' size used since it is what most dollhouses are made with. Believe me, it's been far more tough to find than anything else so far. I am looking for something that is sturdy, but lightweight. If I decide to sell the roombox, I don't want it to be so heavy that the shipping would cost an arm and a leg. So next time I'm in Home Depot, I will check out the 1/4 and 1/2 and see which looks most suitable to my needs.

Susan

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Greenleaf & Corona Concepts kits are made with 1/8" plywood and that's also what Dura-Craft used for the non-milled wood parts in their all-wooden kits. If weight is a cosideration, why not use gatorboard (stronger than foamboard, I've read) and reinforce the corners with 1/4" square dowels?

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I am looking for something that is sturdy, but lightweight. Susan

So why the heck are you looking at MDF. Nothing is weaker per pound that any type of particle board, MDF included. I'd need a sledge hammer to bust a piece of 1/8" luan, I could bust a piece of 3/8" MDF with my fist.

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I was reading my Small Stuff Digest this AM & apost from one of our Canadian miniaturists discussing her club's activities mentioned some roomboxes members made using mat board (the stuff you use to mat pictures for framing). It's not only light & easy to work with, but also acid-free.

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I agree with Rover, that the mdf or as we sometimes call it particle board, will dull or ruin your cutting tools very quickly. When I use luan, if I want to make it stronger , I put a piece of 1/2" square stock in the corners or around the top. This seems to work well for me. Also, when I'm building from scratch, I use my Dremel router to cut a groove in the base to support the bottom of the walls. Forget the mdf...get some luan !!

Steve

http://www.flickr.com/photos/smb900

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Morning Susan,

I was in Michaels the other day and they had 1/4 sheets of wood in either 12x12 pieces or 12x24. I actually bought some thinking they were the perfect size for a roombox and still fairly light and nice and smooth on the sides. I'll check when I get home to tell you what kind of wood it is.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think its even thick enough to use the preframed windows & doors. At least I hope so or the 3 windows I just bought are gonna look funny. :thumb:

hmm mental note: check to see if windows fit when I get home...

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So why the heck are you looking at MDF. Nothing is weaker per pound that any type of particle board, MDF included. I'd need a sledge hammer to bust a piece of 1/8" luan, I could bust a piece of 3/8" MDF with my fist.

You got that right bro - there are other problems with MDF too - for example If I glue 1/8" ply together wrong I can get it appart without destroying the house and redo it. If I'm using thicker ply I can un nail it and redo it - MDF is not a wood that takes any kind of mistake well. If you glue it and don't get it right the first time - good luck! It might be easier to just toss what you're building out and start over again. I did manage to get my light house appart (the walls were in the wrong order) but not without major damage to the walls- I was lucky in that it's not noticable but it's also not as strong as it would be if it were made with plywood even of much thinner plywood than the mdf is.

Hey Doogster I wanted to comment earlier too on why it dulls milling cutters so quickly - I could be wrong here but I think it's the same principle as cutting paper with scissors.. great way to dull them - paper being wood pulp and this being wood fiber and a binding agent.. I'm thinking it's the same basic idea when it comes to dulling a cutting blade - just lots lots thicker. Make sense? I shoulda researched it (cause I could be wrong) but when you said it dulls blades quick a lightbulb went on and I thought I betcha this is why heheh

-David

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Every time I cut luan, it fuzzes. How do you keep it from doing that? It sure makes for a lot of sanding.

What are you cutting it with? If you are using a power tool, I learned from my BIL is to run a strip of masking tape the same direction as the guide line drawn for cutting. Cuts down on the splintering and stuff especially across the grain.

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Hey Doogster I wanted to comment earlier too on why it dulls milling cutters so quickly - I could be wrong here but I think it's the same principle as cutting paper with scissors.. great way to dull them - paper being wood pulp and this being wood fiber and a binding agent.. I'm thinking it's the same basic idea when it comes to dulling a cutting blade - just lots lots thicker. Make sense? I shoulda researched it (cause I could be wrong) but when you said it dulls blades quick a lightbulb went on and I thought I betcha this is why heheh

-David

That's bang on the money Dude! Any wood pulp is abrasive. I wuz so stoked to find you can mill styrene well, and acrylic rod works on the lathe. Now I just have to get them set up to where I can use them. And clean all the packing grease off them.

As for the weight of MDF, sometimes it's a benefit. The stand for our 36" Wega is primarily MDF, 1" thick, and the stand weighs in at a touch over 100 pounds. But since the TV is 250lb and horrifically front heavy, this weight is a bonus (The TV screws down onto the stand at the back). That being said, when I buy speaker cabs for my basses I look for plywood all the way. 1/4" plywood is a fraction of the weight and ten times stronger than 1/2" MDF.

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As for the weight of MDF, sometimes it's a benefit. The stand for our 36" Wega is primarily MDF, 1" thick, and the stand weighs in at a touch over 100 pounds. But since the TV is 250lb and horrifically front heavy, this weight is a bonus (The TV screws down onto the stand at the back). That being said, when I buy speaker cabs for my basses I look for plywood all the way. 1/4" plywood is a fraction of the weight and ten times stronger than 1/2" MDF.

36"! :yikes: Dang I wanna come watch TV at your house :xmas:

David :rudolph:

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