Cir-Kit Concepts adapters drive me nuts!

[Rhonda from the Bluegrass]

I just finished the work on my Coppertop cabin, which my brother wired for me. Now, I want to get serious about getting progress going on my Mexican Hacienda (Casa Maria). I do have one problem though . . . I don't want to hardwire the lights. This house will not only be stuccoed, but I've spent a small fortune on the light fixtures. I want to attach all the chandelier-style lights and wall sconces with adapters so that I can maintain them more easily. The problem is, every time I have tried to get those adapters to work, I end up getting nowhere. I have literally ruined lamp after lamp trying. Is anybody out there a real whiz with these things? I could sure use some help figuring out what I am doing wrong! I am at a standstill on this house until I get the lights in. I'm not worried about the wiring itself (even though this house is made of solid birch) . . . just those pesky adapters. HELP, Please!!! :o

[LynnieEP]

Hi Rhonda: I'm not a whiz with adaptors but I'm installing a chandelier now with an adaptor. The problem I ran into was:

-the holes I drilled for the eyelets weren't deep enough; I solved that problem but now I don't know what to use to keep the chandelier in place. When I plug it in it lights up but I have to hold my hand under it or it will fall out. This became a real source of frustration for me so I moved onto something else and I'll come back to it later.

Now, you said you weren't getting anywhere with the adaptors. What exactly is or is not happening?

Lynne

[Rhonda from the Bluegrass]

I can't even get the wires in properly into the adapter itself. I know the adapter is spring loaded, but somehow I keep messing the whole thing up. It is frustrating beyond belief. Also, you mentioned drilling the holes deeper, the tapewire can get buggered up if you have to fool with it too much. I am just about to do something I never do . . . take it somewhere else to be done!

[Songbird]

Good luck with those things! I finally concluded that they work best on Cir-Kits lights, which are a bit pricey. I spent literally hours trying to get the sconce adapters to work, only to find that I glued them sideways instead of upright! I'll never use them again, infact I was so soured by the whole experience that I'm thinking of finishing my Brookwood without electricity.

[Rhonda from the Bluegrass]

While I am really sorry you also had trouble, I am glad to know it's not just me. I am usually really good at stuff like this, but these adapters give me a super headache and bad mood every time I try to use them. I wish Cir-Kit would improve them so that they are easier to install. I think they are a great idea IF you can get them in!

[Corwin]

If you want easy light removal, leave the plug in, and build out the wall with wood and make it so you can remove a piece of foam core easily

[pdlnpeabody]

I wouldn't claim to be an "expert" on lighting houses, but I've had almost every possible problem come up. First, unless your only using a couple of lights in a small house, I wouldn't waste my time with tape wiring. Its too flimsy and doesn't bleed heat well enough to avoid damage to the tape and either burning out or just drying out from the adhesive leeching out causing it to get brittle and breaking. Most dollhouse shops carry spools of duplex wire for electrifying houses. A soldering iron is only $10 to $20 and a spool of solder with rosin core is a few bucks more. I use coffee stirrers for conduit so that I can snake the wires through the walls or plaster over them without plastering the wire itself. As for the adapters, before locking in the plate with the prongs, I make sure to orient them with the eyelets so that the sconces and other lights are pointing the way you want them to. Second, make sure that the metal plated holes and contact surfaces are scraped down to the plastic. Metal plating is pretty, but it is also smooth, causing adhesives to be more likely to peel off. Also, the metal plating may be able to conduct electricity, causing a short circuit if the two exposed wires are both making contact. This is just a theory, I haven't tested it yet, but I'd be willing to bet it will transfer current. Last, make sure the two small boundles of wires aren't touching each other. This will also cross your circuit. After feeding them through the prongs I make certain they are not crossing each other.

As for keeping the lights in place, the only thing I have found to work consistently is two-part epoxy. The double syringe system doesn't work at all, so I buy the two tube pack at Lowes or Home Depot. If you haven't used it before, don't get it on anything you don't want to throw out. It won't come off without using acetone. Mix a small, equal amount of the two liquids with a small stick completely, apply evenly on the contact surface and hold it in place for about 5 minutes.

Hope this helps.

[LynnieEP]

Fortunately I was very very careful with the drilling. I used the Cir-kit drill chuck to make the holes. As for getting the wires into the prongs, I had to step away from doing that a few times. But with ALOT of patience (and no caffeine to cause jitters) I got them in. I would not have used adaptors at all but I used up all but a little bit of wiring (kept breaking off when I tried wrapping it around the brads) so I had no choice. The owner of the miniature shop in my area swears by adaptors because when a bulb burns out it's easier to replace it using an adaptor. Right now I am just stuck with trying to figure out how to keep the chandelier in place.

Songbird, thank you for mentioning your sideways/upright dilemma. I have two sconces to install with adaptors and I probably would not have thought about "sideways or upright." Let's hope I have some success.

Lynne

[stephszajko]

Did you get them to work? I lit a wooden dollhouse with the spring loaded eyelets and had no problem, now I'm just getting flustrated with them. I'm trying to light an mdf dollhouse now. Any suggestions for an mdf dollhouse?

[chesterfieldzoo]

I am glad I use round wire and just wire like a real house. This all sounds like a pain. If I ever do use tape, this thread will be great for troubleshooting.

[justmesue]

I think I'm happy I've never used adapters! Even when I tapewired, I went through the ceilind with the round wire from the fixture, and plugged into the tape on the wall above it, then firmly glued the fixture to the ceiling for added support. Good Luck with the lights, hope someone can help you out. Please give us a progress report.

[ItzKathyP]

I used both sconce and chandelier adapters in my Pierce and I agree that they're not for the faint-hearted! It takes lots of patience, which I don't always possess. As Lynne mentioned, I had to step away from it more than once.

I don't have Cir-Kit lights but the adapters still work fine. I actually found the sconce adapter harder to figure out than the chandelier one.

I was told in another thread that there is more than one type of chandelier adapter. The one I used has one piece mounted on the ceiling and the other piece stays on the end of the chandelier. The chandelier piece just twists a half-turn into the mounting piece, which is what makes it so neat for removing the light when needed. I'm really pleased with the way it works, particularly since I'm still at the point where I need to turn the house upside down & sideways and can remove the lights beforehand just in case.

If you can give us more specifics about which step in the installation process you're having the problem I'll try to help along with the others.

[stephszajko]

I'm using the chandelier adapter for a ceiling light. It just plugs in to use it. I got the adapter installed on the light and the lights works just fine. I'm having a hard time getting the spring loaded eyelets installed corrrectly. This is my first time trying to light an mdf dollhouse.

[LynnieEP]

Mind you, I'm not suggesting this but, I had a hard time with the eyelets and ended up pounding them in with a real hammer. After that, I believe I stepped away from that part of the construction process for weeks. Since I'm having a hard time keeping the chandelier in place I think I will just glue it to the ceiling. The bulbs are easy enough to reach and unscrew when they burn out, or I can invest in one of those bulb extractors.

Lynne

[KathieB]

The bulbs are easy enough to reach and unscrew when they burn out, or I can invest in one of those bulb extractors.

I stopped using my bulb extractor the second time it took off the glass part, leaving the metal screw-in part inside the fixture. Not fun to retrieve.

[Rhonda from the Bluegrass]

I used both sconce and chandelier adapters in my Pierce and I agree that they're not for the faint-hearted! I don't have Cir-Kit lights but the adapters still work fine. I actually found the sconce adapter harder to figure out than the chandelier one.

If you can give us more specifics about which step in the installation process you're having the problem I'll try to help along with the others.

Hi, Kathleen: Wow, I appreciate this. I have ruined so many lamps trying to do this! I hate to ask you this, but would you consider doing a step-to-step tutorial on this? It seems to me that I don't have any of it figured out very well! Thanks??? :lol:

[LynnieEP]

Whoa, thanks for the warning KathieB! Maybe I better skip the bulb extractor idea. :lol:

Lynne

[ItzKathyP]

would you consider doing a step-to-step tutorial on this?

I've got to warn you, Rhonda. I'm a real newbie at all this and probably just got lucky - they call that beginner's luck. : But give me a few days & I'll try to put some instructions together in hopes that it might help. I really do like these adapters.

[Rhonda from the Bluegrass]

Kathleen, I will REALLY appreciate it! I figure since you have been successful using them and you actually like them, if I can see what you are doing I am bound to catch something I have either done wrong or something I haven't done at all. I would love to get comfortable with these because I think the basic premise is super.

[coz]

Thanks everyone for keeping this thread open since 2008. My issue in 2020 is getting good contact between the ceiling disk (flat plastic part with spikes to pierce tape wire in ceiling) & slots on the opposite side (to hold the wire connecting pins from the light fixture canopy). The fixture bulbs only light up when I press it with my thumb for a little added pressure to make contact between the two parts. I’ve tried to raise the tiny metal contacts inside the disk to boost the spring tension, but it doesn’t stay.

[pallen]

To all that have problems with the adapters, I have admit, there is a learning curve. I built this dollhouse for my Grand daughter when she was 5 YOA. She's in college now and wants me to wire it for lighting. This is what I have learned after many pit falls. Follow the instruction sheet to assemble the base plate to the lamp base. When assembling the adapter plate I found leaving the wires much longer than the instructions say. About 3 inches of wire to work with before exposing the copper conductor. This makes it easier to maneuver the bare copper wire into the small tube opening. To expose the tiny conductors inside the insulation, be prepared for sore fingernails. While holding the base of the wire close to where it goes into the light fixture with long nose pliers. Pinch the insulation while pulling outwards on it. (try not to pull the insulation completely off). Once you can see the exposed copper strands and still holding with the pliers. Pull and twist as you go the full length of the wire. (this makes the twisting much easier). Once both insulated wires are stripped and twisted, cut one a bit shorter. Feed the longest wire into the adapter tube and bend wire to keep the plate on while inserting the second twisted pair. Slide the adapter plate up, taking care not to short the bare wire together. The next part will make you talk about your mama. I haven't found an easier way to force the plastic disc into the lamp base. I just thank God I have thick nails. As for the spring loaded eyelets, I find that if you can, drill completely through the wall or ceiling this prevents wood from clogging the eyelet base. If you can't drill though the wall or ceiling, after drilling, using the scribe try to clean out the hole of any debris. In the adapter kit you'll find 2 small eyelets, 1 longer eyelet and a bunch of small nails. Place the long eyelet on the awl backwards (with the flange outwards toward the house) this will keep the eyelet from getting stuck on the awl. Use the awl to drive the eyelet in. For the adapters you MUST use the spring loaded eyelets provided with the adapter kit. I hope this helps.