jennybee Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 As this is my first Dollhouse and I'm trying all kinds of different stuff I decided to paperclay the roof over the weekend. I put clue on the roof to help adhere then began adding wide strips on the roof. With each additional strip added I made sure I scored each piece together and kept a damp papertowel over areas when working on a different section to try to keep it all drying at about the same pace. When I went in to see how the roof looked this morning it had cracks in odd places. I know part of my problem is I didn't leave the clay thick enough in the roof sections. But I had one place were it cracked in a thicker spot. (this weekend I'll try to fill in the cracks and see how that takes) Here it how it looks before cracks my roof roof top Sooo long story short my question is - if you don't mind, how thick do you usually put your paperclay on? Do you only make shingles/bricks when applying paperclay? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't even mind if you say go to this website or try such and such book... I like to read Many thanks and mini hugs Jenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlene Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Well, it's a learning curve, y'know -- it'll work out! Keep telling yourself this is fun and remember that Paperclay is famous for shrinking & cracking. One thing you need to do with paperclay (or any other clay media for that matter) is to tamp the clay down into the glue so that it adheres well. I use an old thick round stencil brush to tamp it down -- also serves to give texture to the clay as well as strengthen it. You need a really good bond between the base area and the clay. To keep it even if you're applying directly to the wood surface try putting it on a little thicker and using a roller to even it out -- just cut the excess off the edges after you're done rolling -- I've used a wallpaper roller (full-size type) but a small rolling pin will work. And you might get good results putting the clay onto a different base, like matboard cut to the size of the roof or whatever, and then gluing the board to the roof. I've done this with floors and it worked nicely. I roll clay out to just over 1/8". You can make just about anything -- trees, plants, woodgrain, tile, whatever. David (hydroped) used it for gargoyles and Tracy made a terrific magic mushroom scene using it so you're only limited by your imagination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jennybee Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks Charlene, I will try it a little thicker on the other side and see how that goes. And yes it is fun, of course anything that gets you dirt is isn't it.... You should see when I helped paint our house LOOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlene Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Thanks Charlene, I will try it a little thicker on the other side and see how that goes. And yes it is fun, of course anything that gets you dirt is isn't it.... :thumb: You should see when I helped paint our house LOOL Good luck & keep us posted! Sure someone else will be popping in with loads of advice :thumb: BTW when I finished bricking the sportsbar, I looked like I had actually laid bricks -- in my hair, on my face and had a devil of a time cleaning the *%@* off my glasses Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minis On The Edge Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Charlene is right, and sometimes working with the clay is really trail by error too. Sometimes I get HUGE crakes in my stones, roof or other things and then sometimes I get none. I think weather has a lot to do with it and thickness. Sometimes I even have warpage and other times I have none. The key is to learn how to fix the issues that comes with working with the clay. Wetting the area where the cracks are with water then make a little "snake roll" of paper clay big enough to fit into the crack helps and most times will fix the issue. Sometimes I get cracks if I manipulate the clay too much while wet too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydroped Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Hi Jenny, When I was working on my Orchid bash I pretty much covered the entire exterior in paperclay -walls and roof - and I found that where I applied it thinner it hardly cracked at all but on the wall I applied the clay thicker on it cracked badly! I don't know if this is true for others or if all depends on how dry/humid it is in your location <?> but I try to keep mine to about 1/8" thick. Like a thin pie crust. You can use paperclay to make just about anything - If you want to see some of the extremes it can be used for check out minimotion.com Check out Tori's gallery- some of the things she makes with paperclay is just amazing! And don't forget to check out the galleries here for some of Tracy's (minis on the edge) houses. She does Beautiful paperclay work! -David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minis On The Edge Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I forgot to mention....I LOVE your house!! It really looks wonderful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peggyquade Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I used paper clay on a church I am building and currently on my big wooden dollhouse. I had a similar experience as David describes...on the church, some of the "stones" were thicker than others and it was the thicker ones that cracked. Now on the big wooden dollhouse, I've kept the stones pretty low profile and haven't had any cracking at all. Like he said, about 1/8" thick. Good luck and have fun with the process...don't know if it's the effect you want, but I really like the cracking...I plan on inserting little ferns and bits of moss into the cracks for a really old look on my church. Let us know how it goes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peggyquade Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Wow, thanks David for that link to that web page. The animated miniatures are fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydroped Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I forgot to mention that unwanted cracks can be patched using more paperclay to fill after the original wall has dried. That's one nice thing about it :thumb: Wow, thanks David for that link to that web page. The animated miniatures are fantastic! Hi Peggy Glad you like the link - Tori's husband does those wonderful miniature animatronic scenes - I think the guy must be a genius. They did one room where the the mouse now and then scurries across the floor and the cat turns his head to watch it meanwhile all kinds of other things were going in the foreground. I would SO love to see one of those in person and not just on the web :thumb: Though I have to say I have bought some of Tori's creations. Nice Stuff!! The horney toad (horned lizard) I bought from her looks so real that it's fooled several people and they've asked where I found one that size and that they didn't know the babies were even that tiny.. and I had to tell them it's a 1:12 scale replica - it's not real. They were shocked! Truly amazing work. -David :yucky: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shy Spirit Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 This is an interesting thread - I have recently purchased some paper clay, although I've never used it before. I love the stonework effect that I've seen on so many beautiful houses. Hoping to learn a few good tips/techniques. Jenn, you have done a great job on your dollhouse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SusannaT Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 You are making me want to try out paper clay. I'm loving the links. Once my mini village arrives... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 David, thanks for the link to Tori's work. It really is amazing. I watched the QuickTime movie of the witch half a dozen times! I haven't tried brandname Paperclay, but I am using DAS (a similar air-dry clay) for details on the Travel Trailer. It really is exciting to work with. Can't wait for Dec 16 to share the experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hydroped Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Hi Kathie, You might want to pick up a small package of paperclay sometime and give it a try. I've used DAS too and it works great on stones etc but it has a totally different feel than paperclay. DAS reminds me in weight and texture more like ceramic clay and paperclay is like working with piecrust dough - very light and pastry like. It's funny stuff Glad you enjoyed the links to Tori's work - I was just Blown away when I first saw it! And to tell the truth every time I visit her site I'm still shocked and amazed and what she can do with it - it still blows me away :lol: Did you see her skeleton on the stand for a doctors office?... wow. I wish she'd do a DVD on making animals with paperclay I would love to watch her make a horned lizard or 1:12 scale hummingbird - I'm always amazed at her detail. -David :thumb: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Jenn, I read somewhere you roll the clay very thin, like piecrust (as everyone who has worked with it mentions). You can go back and add thin layers to build up your stones randomly. I think I read this in terms of making architectural embellishments, but I imagine the principle is the same. Because thinner areas will dry more quickly than thicker areas and the clay shrinks, the wetter, thicker areas will develop cracks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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