glue question

[sadie]

I am REALLY new to this dollhouse stuff...I am working on the Willow..and I have assembled the first floor, front wall, first floor partition and second floor...now, here's the really stupid question...Do I glue all along the walls, floors, etc..or just where the tabs are?? I KNOW it's a really dumb question, but someone I work with says just glue where the tabs are...well, I glued all along the "seams"..where the floor meets the wall, etc...Yes, I have a long line of glue, but..I can sand it off...(I hope) plus it does dry clear (I hope)...it looks awful...there's glue everywhere...! EW! Did I already screw it up? Thanks for any answers here!

[JaimieMarvon]

Sadie-

First thing to remember: Most problems can be fixed, some way or another.

Second: If you had only glued at the tab spots your house wouldn't be very sturdy, would it? You did the right thing by glueing the way you did, you just probably shluld have done it neater!

I'm fairly new as well. Built smaller houses MANY years ago. Everyone here is very nice and extremely helpful.

You can also research different types of glue and find what works best for you. Lots of infor about that kind of stuff here. Just do a search.

BTW- what house are you working on?

[sadie]

Thank you ..I feel much better...! I am working on the Willow....

[sadie]

P.S. Your house is moving right along...it looks very good so far...I don't think I'm ready to handle that big of a house...yet!

[LPCullen]

What kind of glue did you use Sadie?

[doogster]

That's the most important question, what type of glue did you use? White glue, or PVA, is not the best for house construction. Look at it that way, construction of a scale house. Cabinet makers do NOT use PVA glue. Aleene's tacky glue is just dehydrated white glue, water is removed to make it thicker and stickier, and it is thick and sticky, and it's still PVA! Hot glue is right out. It's not borderline useless, it's completely useless. Yellow carpenter's clue, that's the ticket. Hello, it's carpenter's glue, you know, the guys that work with wood. I got a humungous bottle of Loctite Woodworx yellow wood glue at Wally World for 4 bones. I've also been reinforcing the joints with polyurethane glue. Gorilla glue is the most well known, but I use Elmer's, same stuff half the price. Though that may be of no benefit.

[LPCullen]

Yellow carpenter's clue, that's the ticket. Hello, it's carpenter's glue, you know, the guys that work with wood.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nope. Jimmy uses Elmers Pro-Bond Wood Glue, and I like that one best!

[doogster]

Nope. Jimmy uses Elmers Pro-Bond Wood Glue, and I like that one best!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Uh, that IS yellow carpenter's glue:

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.co...lue-179135.aspx

Thanx for making my point>

[nuttiwebgal]

I have never used anything but Aileens Tacky glue and I love it!

perhaps there is better out there....dont care like what Im using its easy to find and dont break me.....lots of houses lots of glue

I dont believe there is a perfect anything its what works for each person.

I do know that HOT glue gun is big no no for dollhouse building....unless you use it for imediate hold for the other glue to set up.

as always

nutti

[Deb]

...now, here's the really stupid question...Do I glue all along the walls, floors, etc..or just where the tabs are??  I KNOW it's a really dumb question, but someone I work with says just glue where the tabs are...

Hi Sadie. That's not a stupid question at all. It's one that everyone asks the first time they pick up the glue bottle. You're right to glue along the seams because it gives the house more stability and helps hold the joins together.

I use wood glue and apply it with a cocktail straw or toothpick along the edge of the piece that will be fitting against another piece (edges of the floors that fit against the walls or walls that meet other walls) and then on the sides of the tab. Most of the time, I put the pieces together and have my masking tape on the sides of it, ready attach to the other side. Then I lift the piece out, apply a thin line of glue to the edge and tabs, then fit it back in place. I use my finger to wipe along the edge which pushes the glue firmly into the join and removes the excess on sides, then pull the tape around to hold it in place. It's a little messy on the hands (don't scratch your nose or stick the toothpick in your mouth) but you get an even application of glue and less to clean off after it's dried. Most importantly, you get the stability of solid seams.

Hope that helps!

Deb

[LPCullen]

Uh, that IS yellow carpenter's glue:

http://paint-and-supplies.hardwarestore.co...lue-179135.aspx

Thanx for making my point> 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nope. It isn't. There's a difference. You're specifically saying "yellow Carpenter's glue". Look here:

Although similar, probond is a completely different animal. Looks different, smells different, dries different. See here:

[havanaholly]

I KNOW it's a really dumb question

First of all, Sadie, there's no such thing as a "dumb" question (unless you don't ask it). In my early ignorance I assembled my first dh kit (Dura-Craft San Franciscan) with Elmer's PVA glue and gave it to DGD and it was still holding together (except the oval window one of her cousins trashed) years later. However I used yellow carpenter's glue for the Cambridge & liked it MUCH better.

Like Deb, after I dry-fit the pieces I use a toothpick to apply a bead of glue to the edge of the wood and glue it on. Then I clamp/ tape it or weight it until dry. For corners I go back with my heavy-duty Stanley stapler and 1/4" steel chisel-point staples & reinforce the "seams". It may be overkill, but I build the kits to be played with, often by small children.

BTW, Linda & Andrew, my carpenter's glue is a yucky tan.

Also, if you want to stain anything, stain before gluing. Even the "stainable" wood glue doesn't (I had some & found out by experimenting).

[doogster]

Seems the Bond glues have short clamping time as their main feature. No glue has better holding power on wood than yellow wood glue. Though if you want to drive yourself crazy you could do what I do, use a combination of glues. And in actual fact it's all academic anyway. Most glues, white PVA aside, are stronger than the wood. So the strength of the bond is limited by the strength of the wood. In the case of the luan used for Greenleaf houses, that aint very strong. Which may explain why even Aleene's works.

I had to pry apart a joint yesterday, took a bit of effort, polyurethane used for the bond, glue stayed perfect, the luan broke really pretty easily. BTW, it was an inside joint so it won't show.

Bottom line: don't use hot glue, it may seem okay today, get back to me in 5 years and we'll re-visit this if you're proponent. I don't like PVA for houses, though it might work for Greenleaf. Any resin based glue (yellow, bond, polyurethane) will have the best bite for the buck. Yellow tastes the best of that's an issue, just my opinion.

[heidiiiii]

Sadie I am a first timer here too. But I read and read and read some more before I got onto my house project. I learned a whole lot of things from these nice people even before my house came to my house.

I used carpenter`s glue. I also used super glue dabs to start the bonding process. I did what they have been saying in this thread. I have been doing the tedious task of putting the glue in the seams with a toothpick. Then I used masking tape and big books (Webster`s dictionary & Vegetarian Times) to weight down.

I am also looking at some of the yellow glue showing but I figure it will be covered by wallpaper, flooring and baseboards.

My dad always said " There are no stupid questions, only stupid answers!"

[havanaholly]

I used masking tape and big books (Webster`s dictionary & Vegetarian Times) to weight down.

Now DH knows why I still have some of my old nursing textbooks.

[LPCullen]

Seems the Bond glues have short clamping time as their main feature.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

We used to use the yellow carpenters glue (BTW, pro-bond is a tannish color), but when Jimmy started using the pro-bond, I liked it better. First, it goes on smoother. Second, yellow glue dries yellow, pro-bond doesn't. Third, Yellow glue seemed "brittle" to me and the wood would snap apart easily. Fourth, I feel like I'm getting a better bond with the pro-bond, and it's easier for me to apply wtih a paintbrush.

Truthfully, it's all a matter of what works best for you, and since Jimmy does the gluing primarily, I go with his choice. It just happens that I like his choice better, so it works.

[hydroped]

Hi Sadie,

As you can see we all love our glue Thought we sometimes love different types and/or brands. I have to say I've used Tacky Glue and Carpenters Glue - I think they both work fine for dollhouse construction and I'll use which ever I have on hand. I actually use Tacky glue a lot! The only thing I say not to use is a hot glue gun.. and occasionally there are even parts where that really is the best bet even though in general it's a no- no (there are a couple parts on the Corona Travel Trailer where the instructions specifically say to use hot glue - in those rare instances I think the guys who designed the house know best and I follow their directions).

About where to glue - all along the joint not just at the tabs - and I too am a messy gluer. I try not to use too much glue and only where the wood will meet but when I get a drip (and I do get them) I keep a lightly damp rag handy and wipe away the excess glue while it's still wet. This won't help you if you're planning to leave the wood showing (stain won't stick to a glued surface) but if you're planning to paint or walpaper you're fine. And you'll get better at gluing as you go along.

As for clamping which I think is important while the glue is drying to get a good bond - I use a lot of painters tape and masking tape. I've also been known to use books, a water jug, twine and anything else handy that will make a good wieght or pull joints together.

The main thing is to enjoy building your house - and like they said - there's nothing that can't be fixed. Belive me I've gotten a couple of so called "ruined" houses - and they're very fixable at any stage

-David

[SuzyQ]

Ok now you all have me scared. The directions on my Garfield say to use hot glue. We used it on the base and stairs it looks really good but now that I've read all this I guess I will use something else on the rest.

Andrew have you tried the Elmers Carpernter's wood glue for dark woods? I would think it would dry a better color than the yellow. It is tan. More the color of the original wood being used.

SuzyQ

[havanaholly]

I've also been known to use books, a water jug, twine and anything else handy that will make a good wieght or pull joints together.

I used big stretchy rubber bands on both my Dura-Craft houses.

[sadie]

WOW! Thank you everyone..! I sure learned a lot from everyone! Well, I started the beginning piece with Aileen's tacky glue...then I switched over to Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue..(interior)...it's kind of yellow/tan color..but seems quite runny! It dried sort of a tanny color..but very light...I just hope I glued enough--it appears that I did cuz there was glue everywhere..which I did try to wipe most of it off..is this glue good enough? I feel like I should be using cement! I sure hope I have been putting it together correctly!!

AT any rate, now I that I have read all of your comments and wonderful helpful hints..(which I REALLY need by the way)...here are just a couple of more questions...please??!?!?!?

1. I plan on priming it after I glue it all together...do I just use plain old paint primer ? or just plain old white latex semi-gloss paint? I do not live in a humid state ...I live in Michigan....only the summers are sometimes humid...

2. After reading some of your ideas of "weighting" things down with heavy books and such...what parts are gonna need that??? Pull joints together?? I'm gonna have to tie stuff down?? oh boy......or am I not that far enough along yet? Or is it little itty bitty parts that need weights, like parts of doors, etc? I am getting nervous here......! ..I hope I don't have to take anything apart if I screw up! I hope to have a lot more glued down by the weekend.....

3. Is this glue supposed to be so runny?

Thank you all so much for helping me and calming me down! To me, putting it together is the worst and most nerve-wrecking part...! You are all great!

I think I'm going to print all of your answers out!!

[Peggi]

Sadie: Primer like glue is very personal. I used regular semi-gloss house paint, some use a sanding primer, some don't use primer at all and some use a mixture of stuff. I know others will weigh in on this like they did the glue.

As far as weighting things down, you'll know when you get to that point. when you get something glued together but needs to be held together until the glue sets, that's when you use weights. If you have looked at many of the constructions photos of the various houses being built, at some point they all have had some heavy material rested on it to hold it in place while the glued dried. Walls, floors, roofs and even stairs and doors--just a matter of how long it needs help in being held together. LOL The problem usually is not if it needs weighing down, but what is handy to use for a weight. (Sorry if this answer is clear as mud, maybe others can explain it better)

I used tacky glue so it wasn't runny--so I can't help you with that question.

Enjoy your building experience, someone here is always willing to help fix "oops".

Peggi

[JaimieMarvon]

Ok now you all have me scared.    The directions on my Garfield say to use hot glue.  We used it on the base and stairs it looks really good but now that I've read all this I guess I will use something else on the rest. 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I did the same thing SuzyQ. The directions in the Garf do suggest to use hot glue. I had such a problem with my foundation. Not only did I use the hot glue, but my large foundations pieces were bowed. I had to contact Greenleaf to get more pieces. The person I spoke to even said they needed to update the directions to NOT say anything about hot glue.

It was suggested to me that I try to correct the glueing "problem" by reheating the hot glue with a hair dryer or heat gun. Then take the pieces apart and remove all the excess glue. The ultimate goal in doing all that was to start over with the wood glue. Sounds like a big hassle, but might be a good suggestion being that it is the foundatin of your house. But if you feel that it is stable enough, then you should be fine...

Anyone else want to chime in on that??? I figure there will be alot of opinions about that considering how much of a "No No" hot glue it and why it is deemed so ....

[SuzyQ]

QUOTE(SuzyQ @ Mar 1 2006, 11:57 AM)

Ok now you all have me scared.  ;)  The directions on my Garfield say to use hot glue.  We used it on the base and stairs it looks really good but now that I've read all this I guess I will use something else on the rest.

Thanks Jamie for your help. I went back and looked over the foundation carefully. I think it will be ok. It has had time to set since December. And seems really sturdy. I guess time will tell.

But I will difinately heed everyones warning and use another type of glue for the rest.

Greenleaf Should change those instructions soon. That is a big house to have to redo.

Good luck with the rest of yours I enjoy looking act your pictures

SuzyQ

[LPCullen]

Sadie, have you tried looking at the blogs (look near the top of your screen and there are words written there in black--one word is blog)? If you go into the blogs and look at them, there are lots and lots of tips you can use. You have to scroll down to the bottom of each blog though and work your way up, because it's in reverse order.

[doogster]

I've mainly bin using what Norm uses (he's da man). The Loctite is some type of Bond glue, it only requires 25 minutes clamp time. Seems to hold fine. You can't really go wrong with any glue from Elmer's (I use their polyurethane glue, no way I'm paying nearly double for Gorilla Glue when it's the same thing) or Loctite. Like I said the Luan is way weaker than most of the glues available, so glue choice is kinda moot. My real problem with hot glue is that it tends to turn brittle over time. I built a model of the Nostromo from Alien in shop class in school. Glued all together with hot glue, the teacher thought it was the greatest thing since spray cheese. Strong as anything for about 3 years, then it just fell apart. You barely had to touch it and something fell off. I learned that that's common with hot glue, and that nostromo was made out of wood.

What I did was to glue the two big flat bits for the Garf with polyurethane glue, it's the only glue that produces a strong butt joint like that. Then did the majority of gluing with the Loctite, then reinforced the joints with urethane. I put on the first floor yesterday, did the same thing, reinforced where the cross braces go under the floor with the urethane glue. That foundation's solid as a rock now, and that floor aint ever coming off.

For primer, guess it's a matter of taste, that's personal taste not flavor, they actually all taste the same. Just be sure to get interior, unless you plan on displaying your house outside. Exterior paint contains fungicides and stuff that you don't really want inside.