LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I started laying (ironing) flooring on the lower floor of the Orchid tonight. Is it stupid to leave a break in the flooring for the wall or would it be better to redo the flooring so it stretches all the way across and shave the bottom of the wall off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 ... Is it stupid to leave a break in the flooring for the wall ... It's what I do, so I don't think it's stupid. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra from Olde Cape Cod Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 If Holly says it's not stupid, you can take that to the bank! LOL! She is a wealth of information! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I'd also break it off at the wall so as not to mess up any slot/tab issues. The baseboard will cover any minor irregularities in the ends of the flooring pieces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra from Olde Cape Cod Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I should have thought to do that before I put the Canterbury walls in...now I'll have to make a pattern cause my piece of flooring is one big piece... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Awesome! Thank you! I was forging ahead confidently, and then some gremlin in my head started ragging on me. Since this is my first build I readily listened to the whole "you have no freakin' idea what you're doing" spiel. I am going to cut longer ones on the kitchen side so I don't have to mess with the fiddly little 3/8" bits. Again, many thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 That's what I was afraid of, Debra. My other idea was to put the wall in and then iron the flooring onto cardstock, but the lines might not match up perfectly under the doorway. Not sure anyone will look that closely, but I would know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra from Olde Cape Cod Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Is it very difficult to iron on? I was kinda concerned about burning it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Not at all. They suggested covering the iron with tin foil, so I did that and have had to recover several sections as they rip off, but the floor looks great so far. No fumes, no burning. I think the next time I do this, I'm going to try drawing/scribing the lines where this time I cut them all apart. It doesn't take much of a difference to get one "board" quite a bit wider than the rest. I had to do some picking and choosing as I went. This is 3/4" red oak and I've cut 6" and 3" sections, then cut the sections in half lengthwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra from Olde Cape Cod Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 What does the foil do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I would imagine it protects the glue on the bottom of the wood from getting onto your iron. If it's a crafting iron and you don't mind, I would guess you could leave it off and just clean any glue off. I might do that tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I use my regular iron to iron on the veneer after I cut it into scale boards. I noticed some blackish residue that brushed right off of the floors and also came right off of the iron when it cooled. I think you'd have to leave the iron it on the veneer plugged in and on a high heat setting to singe the wood, and it doesn't take anything like that long to melt the glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clairevc Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 What product is this that you iron on??? I did a wood floor that I just wood glued on. As a matter of fact, I got samples from Home Depot for free and cut into strips. The floor looks great and it was quite easy to apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 My other idea was to put the wall in and then iron the flooring onto cardstock, but the lines might not match up perfectly under the doorway. Not sure anyone will look that closely, but I would know. You could put a piece crosswise in the doorway to form a threshold to separate the flooring between rooms. There would be no need to match perfectly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 What product is this that you iron on???... http://www.lowes.com/pd_16545-99899-34210_4294815773__?productId=3603328&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo= I cut it into strips and widths for scale floorboards, set them in place with a tiny bead of tacky glue and when I get a fw courses down, hit it with the iron. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Good idea, Kathie. I'll have to remember that for future houses. Holly, I didn't use the tacky glue and just ironed each one on individually. Your way sounds much better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I take my mouse sander and sand it lightly to even the entire floor out. This makes it smooth as glass. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Good tip, Sable. I had to look up what a mouse sander is. Now I think I need one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
otterine Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Not to get off topic, but I just used this stuff to finish the edge of my plywood base board. I wish I had done this for all my previous builds! http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&image=109496 Dremel Multi-Max Oscillating Tool has a sanding attachment that works well, too. :yes: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&image=87473 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Debra from Olde Cape Cod Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Here's another option: http://www.cabinetparts.com/p/fastcap-tools-and-templates-FC050WH?gclid=CjwKEAjwotmoBRCc6LWd2ZnkuBYSJACyt2quh62zVckjK5SZjr-boqI4RlupFKALX_Qu4QmUIWUghxoC8brw_wcB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 I just checked and Lowe's doesn't carry it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sable Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Otterine's Multi-max is great because it also has attachments for cutting out windows and doors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyGunn Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 We looked at mouse sanders and the multi-maxes at Menards over the weekend. Amazon carries the Black and Decker mouse sander $15 cheaper than Menards. Otterine, I saw that you used it for edging the board. It looks good! I'm hoping to try a simple decorative trim on the Orchid and see how that goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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