darrellandmelissa Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 While shingling the Mc Kinnely, I got the idea that I could work on another house while the glue dries. I went in the garage and found a folding card table and set it up in the laundry room. Now I have a house in progress in the kitchen, and one in progress in the laundry room. I got tired of looking at houses we put on hold, so the lighthouse is being worked on now. The church will be next, or I may start the Arthur, westville, gleancroft, or brookwood that are waiting in their boxes. oh my such a choice I believe by keeping the houses in seperate rooms, I will not mix parts up. Just think, NO more waiting for the glue to dry, as one house is drying the other is being worked on. When it is dry, back to the first project. I believe I am hopelessy addicted. Melissa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPCullen Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 LOL Melissa! I've tried that too, but it gets difficult on occasion. I have discovered that I can have one project running at one house with another project at the other house but that doesn't always work either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuttiwebgal Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 ohhhhhh I love this topic! I am enjoying the Marquam Hill Mansion taking up 2 work surfaces and the Lily is now on the other 2.....all in the same room. I am not worried about mixing up parts. but it is a little full in here! I feel Deans comment on being burried by dollhouses is comming true! quick throw me some masking tape so I can climb outa here! lol nutti :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilovecats Posted February 22, 2006 Share Posted February 22, 2006 That's funny, I swore up and down that i would finish my first house before starting another...but i have 3 going now! One is just waiting for me to buy light fixtures...once the light fixtures are installed, then I can complete the widows walk trim and the porches....if i would stop buying stuff for my new projects, then i could buy the light fixtures... :o my other two projects are in the beginning phases! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogster Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 The nice thing about models is that you CAN'T mix the parts up. It's not likely you'll find yourself saying how did I glue this Viper nose onto the roof here? Or how did I manage to install this French window into the Proteus? :o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deb Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Just think, NO more waiting for the glue to dry, as one house is drying the other is being worked on. When it is dry, back to the first project. I believe I am hopelessy addicted. Melissa Go Melissa Go!! That's the best multi tasking idea I've ever heard! Deb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deb Posted February 23, 2006 Share Posted February 23, 2006 Or how did I manage to install this French window into the Proteus? :o Yeah, but you'd be the only kid on the block to have one like it! Deb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrellandmelissa Posted February 24, 2006 Author Share Posted February 24, 2006 Hmm, well, mulitibuilding is not going as i expected. I am currently waiting for the magic stone to dry on the Mc Kinnely and the paint to dry on parts for the lighthouse. If I don't do something i will be forced to go cook dinner. Let me see , can i find aniother work surface and start another project? No, no room left, Oh well I guess the people in this house need to eat now and then, LOL, Melissa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Missymew Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Melissa - You're taking multi-tasking to new levels. But in so many ways it does make sense. Waiting for glue to dry is time to spend on another project, that is unless you're like me ... sometimes I glue myself to my project. Then I face the decision, if I pull my hand or finger off of what I'm gluing, then my project will come unstuck. So sometimes I just sit there until the glue dries strong and sturdy, and then rip my finger off of it. It hurts, but at least I don't have to reglue!! Susanne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPCullen Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Melissa, that's where the 1/4 stuff comes in great! It takes so little time to put them together, and while you're waiting on glue to dry on a 1/12 house, you can just about completely put a 1/4 house together! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiniMadWoman Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 This is definitely multi-tasking at its best! I believe it's only for the very very brave!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogster Posted February 24, 2006 Share Posted February 24, 2006 Furniture kits dude, and the Chrysnbon kits. Let's ya do something productive in a small space. BTW, when making the styrene kits such as Chrysnbon don't use the junk glue sold at a lot of stores (the Testors with the blue label that's non-toxic-it's also non-useful) unless you have small children that like to eat/taste weird things I'd go with Ambroid pro-weld (the liquid not the tube) or Tenax 7R. They're the same, buy based on availability. Also lose the silly brush that comes attached to the lid. Microbrushes (trade name) are da bomb, I've also recently got a small bottle with a needle for capillary delivery-you can get them at hobby shops for close to 12 bucks. I found mine at Ace Hardware, they have an acrylic section, for summink like 4 bucks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrellandmelissa Posted February 24, 2006 Author Share Posted February 24, 2006 Thanks for the tips on glue for chrysonbon kits. I will pass the info on to Darrell. He buildis the kits as I can not be around strong smells due to my lung condition. It is nice having someone do all the smelly work for me. Melissa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 can i find aniother work surface and start another project? No, no room left,That;s my problem, and I'd better find a solution before Building Teams rev up again ;) lose the silly brush that comes attached to the lid. I must be missing something, I've always used Testor's in the red tube back when I was making fantasy minis for a wargaming friend and there was no brush, that's when I discovered the boxes of pointy-ended round toothpicks. I just sit there until the glue dries strong and sturdy, and then rip my finger off of it. It hurts, but at least I don't have to reglue! Uh, Susanne, dear, there's this stuff called acetone (nail polish remover) that will unstick your finger. My personal preference is clamps padded with waxed paper (I haven't found the glue that will stick to waxed paper!), it keeps the skin on my fingers & is a lot less painful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nuttiwebgal Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 oh I forgot to mention when Im really feeling touched in the head I will do a 1/144th project at my computer desk. I uses paperplates to keep the Peices on while in various stages of construction...I also do furniture kits this way. play Pogo build furniture....play pogo build a house....works for me. oh and I am sooooo adding the new 1/144th scale beacon hill to nuttiville. going to do it as a recovery project! nutti ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Cal Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 I am a firm believer in liquid cement for pastics. the tube cement DOES NOT work anywhere as well as the liquid cement. MicroScale at one time ...and may still offer micro weld as well. If you are building styrene kits go to a hobby shop that caters to serious plastic modellers...aircraft military etc as they have "THE GOOD STUFF" for doing work like this. Craft stores often have a token selection of plastic models and a token selection of suitable supplies. A "real" hobby shop will have things like Paasche airbrushes, Northeast scale lumber...even if they dont stock the dolhouse wood you need they can order it for you Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Cal Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 I am a firm believer in liquid cement for pastics. the tube cement DOES NOT work anywhere as well as the liquid cement. MicroScale at one time ...and may still offer micro weld as well. If you are building styrene kits go to a hobby shop that caters to serious plastic modellers...aircraft military etc as they have "THE GOOD STUFF" for doing work like this. Craft stores often have a token selection of plastic models and a token selection of suitable supplies. A "real" hobby shop will have things like Paasche airbrushes, Northeast scale lumber...even if they dont stock the dolhouse wood you need they can order it for you Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Cal Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 Building my village I spent quite a bit of time multi tasking as I had to wait for things on one building to dry before the next stage could be done....especially painting, trimming and shingling. Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 26, 2006 Share Posted February 26, 2006 A "real" hobby shop will have things like Paasche airbrushes, Northeast scale lumber. I have dealt with them online. Our Hobby Town store's manager told me he could order something I was looking for, from Micro Mark, but since I order from them online I thanked him and bought a bunch of stuff I needed right then. I prefer to buy locally or from a bricks & Morter store so I can see/ touch/ smell, etc, whatever I'm buying if at all possible. But when I find a prduct I'm happy with I'll check to see if they have a website to see what else they have that my local shop doesn't carry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogster Posted February 27, 2006 Share Posted February 27, 2006 Tube glues will work, but they're messy, they have their place, but I seldom use them, never for kits. Testors do make a liquid cement, again toss the brush in the lid, any store with a decent model kit selection will have that, but it's used more like contact cement. I prefer Ambroid or Tenax, used by capillary action, it gives the strongest bonds, it dries in 10 seconds, and it's hard to mess up the allignment, since you allign the parts dry. And Ed, for airbrushes the only way to go is Dixie Art. I got my Paasche H set (with all 3 spray tips, hose, jars etc) for 50 bucks, free shipping. My collection includes Aztek, Badger, Paasche, and my recently acquired Iwata Eclipse (90 bucks with hose, jars etc) free shipping. Paasche make a nice brush, very solid quality, hafta say the Iwata is the king of the hill. Try one of these guys out, I'll bet you'll be a convert too. And the Eclipse only uses 1 spray head and needle, will do everything from hair thin to a 2.5" spread. Great service, fast delivery. I also got my compressor from them, A Silentaire Scorpion 1, if this ever dies I'm replacing it with exactly the same again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Cal Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 As far as airbrushes go I have my Paasche H with 3 tips my VL with 3 tips and the larger Paschee spray gun for bigger areas on projects. I got my compressor as a freebie from my boss too small forhte optical machinery we were using it for I had to put a new regulator and a misture trap on it so I got a Porter Cable pancake compressor for near nothing, besides it runs my brad nailer quite well. By the way my first airbrush was a Badger 250 underwhelming by my current tools. After that I had a humbrol which was an improvement over the 250 was only fair compared to the Paasche H. I use mine mostly fr toy train restoration work now but have done military models with everythoing I own. Luftwaffe Battle of Britain Camo RAF Battle of Britain early euro camo was easy to do with hard masking so anything would work as long as paint was evenly applied Tough was later Luftwaffe cao with grey sprayed over the light blue fuselage sides as tiny ovals with soft edges I love the idea of silent or refrigerator style compressors unfortunately they are quite pricey Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogster Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 Hafta say the Paasche H is possibly the most versatile airbrush made. Period, full stop, whatever. It's also the brush of choice of Dave Merriman and Thomas Sasser. In my opinion the single action brush is the best thing for almost everything. And anyone can use one, they're that simple. I use the external mix single action for almost everything. About a month ago I wanted a better double action internal mix for weathering effects (the only real use for a double action I can see) I heard so much good stuff about Iwata, especially the Eclipse, I checked it out at Dixie Art. The difference in price was about 20 bucks. So I took the plunge. Man, you would not believe this airbrush. It's like a jewel in construction. The trigger action is like silk. Fit is something else. Hold it in your hand. You know. If I had a Paasche VL I prolly wouldn't bother getting another double action, the VL is awesome. Paasche know how to make airbrushes. As for compressors. I only paid 120 for my Scorpion 1. A Campbell-Hausfeld is a lot cheaper, but I've heard some very scary stories regarding durability. Spray painting requires the compressor to run a lot. And the Scorp requires no setup, auto on-off. Moisture trap. Run 50 PSI through your brush and you'll kill it. The C-H can do better than a C-note. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ms. Mini Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 I love this topic! I currently have 2 houses in progress, My garfield and my Conventry Cottage. My Layfette and my Sweet heart keep staring at my from under the bed I'm hoping to have the garfield and conventry cottage finished before August (my birthday) because I am asking for either the beacon hill or trying to get a hold of a willowcrest on ebay from my finance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed_Cal Posted February 28, 2006 Share Posted February 28, 2006 On both my H andVL I put the metal handles they balance nicer in my hand. Some years ago I proiced out a large silent compressor....20gal tank price was off the wall. When I hit the lottery will get a silent compressor in the mean time my little PC with a moisture trap will do just fine for me. My only problem with the Paasche airbrushes no one locally carries extra jars with solid lids for holding mixed/thinned paint Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doogster Posted March 1, 2006 Share Posted March 1, 2006 On both my H andVL I put the metal handles they balance nicer in my hand. Some years ago I proiced out a large silent compressor....20gal tank price was off the wall. When I hit the lottery will get a silent compressor in the mean time my little PC with a moisture trap will do just fine for me. My only problem with the Paasche airbrushes no one locally carries extra jars with solid lids for holding mixed/thinned paint Ed <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I will have to check out the metal handle for my H. As for jars (you're using siphon feed-like me- I'm assuming) Dixie Art carry a great range of accessories. But don't take my word for it, lose yourself: http://www.dixieart.com/ Just don't blame me if you hit your walet pretty hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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