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Started my SF557


Tess11

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I finally started my SF557 that I got for my birthday in February. I'm a little frustrated, which is to be expected since this is my first build from a kit. I've only done a remodel before this.

I labeled everything Monday night, and I glued the foundation on Tuesday night and that went just fine. Last night I started to put the side walls on the foundation and the second and third floors on. I guess this takes more patience than I had last night. Every time I would get everything glued, taped, and squared, something else would pop off. No amount of taping, squaring and retrying would work for me last night. I even managed to tear off a bit of the skin of my thumb in the process! :)

So I took it apart and decided to try again when I wasn't tired, hot, and frustrated. dh says I don't have enough patience. I think DH agrees. :happydance: (Maybe I got that backwards, but I can never remember which one is the husband.)

Anyway, I'll try it again tonight and after whining here, it may go smoothly. I'm thinking that if the first set of walls is so hard for me, heaven help me when I get to the tower!!!

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I can never remember which one is the husband
DH is dear husband and dh is dollhouse and reading your post
dh says I don't have enough patience. I think DH agrees.
it looks like you got it right.

Is the 557 the MDF version? Because of the peculiarities of Dura-Craft construction you can square to your heart's content & it seems like something's always out of true when it's together, with gaps. I've built the SF555 and also the Cambridge, so you'd think I'd learned my lesson; but no, I have a Newburg in the box waiting its turn.

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Is the 557 the MDF version? Because of the peculiarities of Dura-Craft construction you can square to your heart's content & it seems like something's always out of true when it's together, with gaps.

It's the MDF version. It was very annoying. I realized that I should not have been messing with it at 10:45pm when I get up around 5am. I'll try it again tonight earlier and see if it goes any better. But thanks for the info about Dura-Craft not going together perfectly. It makes me feel better to know it's not just me!

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Thanks Holly, Boxoftrix and Blue Moon! Your words of encouragement got me over the "hump" of the first build blues. With a lot of patience and a few unkind words about construction :) , I got through putting the side walls up, the three floors and began construction on the tower and the bay window. It's starting to look a bit like a house. It just takes a lot of patience and waiting for things to dry a bit before moving on to the next step. BUt I'm a lot less frustrated today, that's for sure!

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As I remember it the tower and bay windows were a bit of a pain. I don't think I let mine dry enough though. Good luck with it!! Remember it will turn out beautiful.

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  • 3 weeks later...

The 557 is MDF? If it is it fits pretty together pretty tight. It is so heavy that I needed a helper to get the big pieces up and together. If you have a nail gun put a couple of small finishing nails into the large walls to keep them square. A fresh roll of wide painters tape will also be useful. The more expensive tapes tend to stick better and save you money in the long run. Tess, I suppose you are past this point by now, but thougt this information could be useful to someolone else that is building this house and looking for advice later.

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When my box came yesterday I was very surprised at how much it weighed! I was lugging it in the house from the UPS truck and about went into shock at how heavy it was! But of course the more I looked at it, the lighter and lighter it got! Must be something psychological, after all it is only a dh! Right?! Yes, this is a big house but the rooms seem small to me. I hope I can find the time to put this one together. I supposed I should start numbering the boxes in the basement now, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and then maybe even go einie meanie minie moe..... But I'll probably do the 1/2" one next! Whew! I love dh's!!!!!!

Wolfie

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reading this post made me feel better about my San Fran that i am working on. i was really frustrated with it today, i couldn't get the roof to go on square, and when i did get it on, finally, there were gaps to be worked on. i have added trim and whatnot to that area already to help it look better and hide the gaps. haven't figured out what i will do with the gaps in the interior though. i do have one question for those of you who could help. my fourth floor wound up drying unlevel, after tons of taping and whatnot last night, and i don't know how to get it straightened out or at least make it look level.......help please, advice......

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The corner trims and floor molding will cover the gaps so it is not likely that light will show through. If there are large gaps they should be filled so the house does not start to wobble. There is a special glue for this, Gap tight or something like this).

To level the floor You can cut the glued edge with a (new) razor knife and try to reposition it.

I hope I can explain this well enough: I usually lay the walls out flat and mark where the floor will go with a 3 foot ruler before the assembly. You can use a chalk line if you know how and where the stuff to do this is. Then, using push pins I tack up some thin wood strips carefull wrapped in foil (or plastic wrap) so thy will not stick. I put these right below the line marking the floor heigh to about 1-2" from the side end of the each wall. You will have to drill and use small screws with MDF but it will be worth the time. Now, I hold the house together with straps made of 1" wide (or wider) skirt elastic about 3-6" shorter that the distance around the house (you can pin using a couple of safety pins. This should be tight enough to hold it up but loose enough to shift and move the walls and get any tabs and slots fitted. It works best if you keep the elastic flatMark and sand down any spots that rub or are leaving large gaps. Having the floors sitting on the wood strips helps keep them level. Check with a small level to be sure. You can tack a few spots with a quick glue now or run a bead of glue around the tops of the floors and work it into the crack with fingers. This will be covered with molding when you are done but take care that glue is not running down the wall in the rooms below. Keep checking and wiping with a slightly damp cloth. I usually use fast dry glue just at the tabs and slots. I check for level and plumb again when I am done and make any needed adjustments. Then I leave the house alone to dry of at least overnight before moving to the next step. I usually leave the supports in until I am ready to add trim.

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i already thought that i was prolly gonna have to try to cut that floor out. thanks for the tips on how to get it leveled up. prolly won't start on that process tonight, who knows.....

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