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working windows for Rosedale


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The x-acto knife already seems a little dull, though I haven't cut that much with it. Is that possible?

 

Yes, It doesn't take much to take the edge off of an x-acto blade. I find utility knife blades stay sharper longer.

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Paint the art board before sanding. The boards used for acrylic nails work really well for the gentle sanding you want to do.  Cutting paper dulls a blade faster than nything,, nd trying to ut anything with a dull blade is a guaranteed method for slicing your body parts.  The only thing I use my Xacto on is poly clay.

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I still haven't done any painting because I want to make sure I've solved all the construction problems before I go to the trouble.

What kind of files are used with acrylic nails? I have glass files I use on my own natural nails. I've been using fine sand paper on the windows, and it seems to work well. It probably would work better if I painted first, but it's okay.

I decided to use thin, clear plastic to hinge. Metal hinges are too big - the windows wouldn't fit snugly in the frames.

This photo shows the a window mostly finished. It has clear panes glued between the frames I made from art board, and the hinges are in place but the glue isn't dry. I wanted to make sure the panes opened properly first. It does, so now I'll try to stick the hinges on for real.

I'm using wood glue for starters. If I can't get a secure enough bond, I'll switch to epoxy or maybe try little pin nails. The hinge is the last piece of the puzzle to solve.

I realize it's a lot easier to paint stuff first, but when I'm not sure what I'm doing, I can't.

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I'm working on the hinges now. Tricky, because they have to be extremely small, and yet stick securely. I've tried many different materials. The most promising so far is shown here.

These are creased snippets from a plastic tablecloth ($4 on Amazon). Because it's so cheaply made, it's extremely thin (but also strong and doesn't fray) so it's great for this. I've also used it for mini umbrellas and shower curtains. I have them in several colors.

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I'm not quite understanding your clear hinges. I've never thought of using something like that.

Did you create a mortise on both sides to make them disappear? Just wondering how that works with card based products.

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The window looks really good. I think you've finally nailed it. :thumb:

 

If you run into an issue with glue, try E-6000. Use a toothpick to put little dots of it along the hinge and smooth. It takes a few minutes to dry, so it can be re-positioned if necessary.

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I'm not quite understanding your clear hinges. I've never thought of using something like that.

Did you create a mortise on both sides to make them disappear? Just wondering how that works with card based products.

I don't know what a mortise is, so I'm not sure what you're asking.

They're basically cloth hinges, but what I'm using for the cloth is extremely thin white plastic cut from a cheap plastic tablecloth. You can't see it because it's white and extremely thin.

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I already had to reglue one side, but I think it's because I didn't let the glue dry completely before I tried opening the window. You can see the one side pulling away a little in the open window picture. I'll leave it to dry now.

I have another pair of casement panes in a frame glued together and weighted down with books while it dries.

I took one picture from the inside, but it doesn't have the inside trim or sill yet, or the window handles.

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Very nice.  Selkie, I have found that even with using strips of chamois detail cloth for hinges, once the strip has been clamped between the two halves of window frame or door, when the glue dries and the clamps are removed, the edges of the two pieces appear to be flush without trimming away any material for mortises.  I would imagine that the thin tablecloth plastic would work quite well with the artboard frames; I don't think I'd use it with wooden doors, though, especially if there's any prolonged exposure to UV..

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The chamois detail rags you buy at auto supply places compress under the clamps and cut easily with scissors.  A mortise is a cut made in wood to fit another element.  In the case of hinges, it's o that the hinge wings fit flush with the surface of the wood.

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I'm satisfied with how the windows look, but I want to try some other hinge materials. The thin plastic makes the hinges floppy. I need something thin but a little stiffer. I'll try chamois if I can find the rag I used to have around here. I also have some thin leather from binding miniature books.

I've got the first two windows done (except for the inside trim). I added the inside handles. Today I've been cutting out the sashes and panes for the rest of the windows. I'm almost done with that.

I've discovered that while the utility knife works better for art board, the x-acto knife (thinner, sharper) works better for the window pane plastic. I also have found that rounded manicure scissors work well for cutting the arch in the window pane plastic.

I'm attaching the pictures that show the windows open and closed from both the inside and outside.

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I found the chamois. Then I started wondering what it was made of, so I googled it. It's a type of leather from goats. Interesting.

 

I'm thinking about what type of material would work best. Ideally, it would be thin and somewhat stiff. I think piece of folded brass would work, except that I'm afraid the constantly folding and unfolding would cause it to break. I could go back to the real-hinge idea, but I'd have to order more. The cheap ones I bought in from an eBay seller in China are not usable.

 

I should finish cutting out the windows and glue them together before I switch to playing with hinges.

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I never heard of twill tape - that's interesting. I want to see if something I already have here will work before I buy something new.

 

I thought the translucent envelopes that stamps come in were made of wax paper, no? Hmm... the plastic-paper that Priority Mail envelopes is another possibility. I've got so many miscellaneous things here (various types of paper, cloth, glue, mini-hinges), something should work.

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Priority and express mail envelopes are tyvek material. It is thin and very sturdy. Doesn't seem to droop. Twinkle used it on doors and gates with no problems. It accepts paint as well so you can hide it with the window color.

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I have plenty of those envelopes. I'll try it.

 

I've been thinking... The Rosedale is cute, but the rooms I wanted to create with my existing furniture don't fit. So after I finish the basic assembly, I'd like to sell it and start a new one. The completed Rosedale will have the working windows described here and I've painted the walls and ceilings white, but beyond that I'll leave all decoration to the buyer. Someone else might want to paper the walls or paint them a different color, etc. Basically, I'd be doing the "grunt work" and leaving the fun part to the buyer.

 

What's the best way to go about doing this? Is there a place on this site to sell a constructed dollhouse kit? Do you think there would be interest?

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What's the best way to go about doing this? Is there a place on this site to sell a constructed dollhouse kit? Do you think there would be interest?

 

We have the Community Trading Post at the bottom of the main page of the forum index.  Members can post items for sale there once a week.  (no prices in the post please)  However, since this is a forum of mostly builders you might have more luck posting it on Craig's List or selling on eBay.  

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There are a few members who work with built houses, so do offer it here, but put in a link to your CL or Ebay listing.  Also, people can PM you for prices, or go to your listing/s.

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All the windows are made now (panes in frames). Once I got my technique down, it went fast. I just tried using Priority Mail envelopes for the hinge, and it's perfect. If I use the pre-glued part, it's even easier. I'll have all these windows in fast now, and then I can finish the construction of the dollhouse.

 

I want to wash the windows before I put the rest of them in - clean the panes. There is a little glue on some of them. I have to be very careful cleaning this off because the frames are art board.

 

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