Jump to content

Gaps Between Walls And Floors


LuvDylan&Holly

Recommended Posts

Well, the good news is that I am making some more progress on my Beacon. The bad news is that it is looking kind of funky. There are some spots where the joints that are to be glued together have gaps between them. I might have a floor where the tabs fit fine almost all the way across, and then all of a sudden there is a tab almost dangling on top of the slot, and the wall isn't completely connected to the floor. This is after the glue has dried. I don't know if this is my goof up, a goof up with the piece of wood or a little of both. Has anyone else had this problem? Will those gaps be covered up with siding and molding, or do I need to rip it apart and start over?

Stacey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Will those gaps be covered up with siding and molding
Yup. Also wood putty or spackling compound if the gap really messes with your brain housing group.

do I need to rip it apart and start over?

Well, if you're really into pain & frustration... I have found that no matter how carefully I dry-fit and sand/ shave the wood, etc, there are still times that gaps occur. I just mutter a *magic* word or two, cover it up with something & move on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stacey, the gaps can be covered with lots of things, as Havanaholly mentioned. No, don't rip it out and start over! I built a Newburg, which drove me insane because no matter what we did there was a gap in the floor where the walls went in! We covered it up with wallpaper, baseboard, and trim, and I must admit that it's one of the prettier houses that we've done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gaps are the reason I became experienced at installing baseboards. ;) Not only does it cover the gap, but it gives the room a very lovely and finished look.

Deb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Stacy,

I have a house like that - I didn't do the initial construction. What happened is when putting the interior floors together (the first step on this house) the builder didn't quite get the slots completely seated so one wall was in perfectly at the top but sticking out at the botom. I should have noticed it and just tried to take those appart and reglue at that early stage. It really was glued well and I'm not even sure I could have gotten it appart but if I'd noticed I could have at least looked it over better and decided if that was an option- I definitely was Not going to try to pry to disassemble the entire house at that point - I had put on 3 outside walls and the 4th would NOT fit!! You'd think I would have figured out that there was a problem when the stair slot and tabs weren't fitting correctly ;) but no. I ended up taking the Dremel to the side of the house and just cutting off the part that stuck out. With Crown molding and baseboards I really don't think anyone will know the difference (unless I tell them). Baseboards and molding are great! The only other issue I'm thinking I'll have is that in one or 2 rooms of the downstairs (where I know the rooms aren't quite square) I may want to stay away from a clearly striped wallpaper pattern and go with something where straight lines are a bit less noticable. I'm not sure if that helps any or not but if nothing else you're definitely not alone in having houses that have turned out with a few gaps and I bet your gaps are much smaller than mine were :lol:

-David :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ya'll thought I was gonna add something to this, didn't you? <shaking head violently to and fro> Nope. I'm just gonna sit on my hands and not say a word. Not one. Nope. I'm being good. It ain't easy, but I'm being good!

Deb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I'll have to do it, then...

There are just some gaps you can't fill with spackle or wood putty!

And really, truely wouldn't want to :rolleyes::blink::(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also built the infamous Newberg house and had the same issues as Linda had.

fortunatly for me she had prewarned me so I didnt let it bother me and used baseboards and crown molding to hide the gaps!

no one can tell it doest match up perfectly and it is also one of the pretter houses I have done.

although I didnt care for the build experience the house turned out nicely.

nutti :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's funny because when you are a store owner, you could also buy the setup models that duracraft used to have. They ALWAYS used nails and thick wood to square off there corners and stuff which is never show in there directions. I built the newburge before I became a shop owner and was very surprised a few years later when I bought a setup model from them because they had so much reinforcement in the ones they built and everything was squared off nice (unlike the one I put together :rolleyes: )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Both the San Franciscan & Cambridge had triangular pieces to square the foundation sides, & I used a steel carpenter's square & plumb-bob to true the corners and my walls still bowed & I still had gaps, so when I do build my Newberg kit I'll use square blocks as Tracy suggests.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...