electrifying my dollhouse ???

[permutations]

I used to have a heat gun, but got rid of it in the course of my last move. It bothers me to buy something I used to have and tossed.

I do have electrical tape!

I've been reading/watching soldering tutorials, and identified the various things I'll need. It adds up. I spend waaaay too much on this hobby. It's somewhat embarrassing - not enough to stop doing it, of course. ;)

A couple of hints:

• "Tin" the tip of the soldering gun by holding the tip of the solder wire against it until it is coated with a layer of solder. (This keeps the residue of the rosin core solder from reaching the tip. A build-up of rosin on the tip serves to insulate it and reduces the amount of heat available to melt the solder.) Tin it again if you notice it wearing off or after cleaning the tip with a rough cloth or steel wool (when it's cool, of course!).
• Don't use too much solder. No need to use great blobs of it. If you "tin" the tip of the wire and "tin" the spot on the tape wire that you want to solder it to, you can avoid adding too big a blob and the awkwardness of having to hold the soldering iron, the wire, and the coil of solder to the joint at the same time. Place the tinned wire on the tinned spot on the tape wire and gently press the tip of the soldering iron to the joint to melt the solder and fuse the joint.

There's a product called "tip tinner" that many people use (so I've read), rather than using solder to tin the tip (if I understood what you wrote). Is there are reason you don't use tip tinner?

What is "rosin core"? If you are rubbing solder with rosin core directly on the tip, wouldn't you be getting "rosin core" (whatever that is), on the tip and insulating the heat?

I'm still feeling pretty at sea about this stuff. There are so many things I want to do, but have never done before. I've been spending every evening after work googling and reading, rather than doing more construction on the dollhouse. I don't feel ready to continue moving forward yet. That's okay for a while (I do need to learn), but I don't want to get frozen with fear-of-mistakes again.

Don't wait for something "worthwhile". Go ahead and blog the build, if only for your own reference years from now. I have some pretty simple stuff in my albums and blogs, but I find my self looking back at work I did five or ten years ago and am amazed at how much I've forgotten! It's good to be able to look back and see the journey.

I know what you mean and it makes sense, but my confidence is very wobbly right now. I want to feel a little more like I know what I'm doing and have a better than 50/50 chance of realizing my vision before I start a blog.

Here's something embarrassing (for example)... I have a Dremel, and I bought the Dremel flex shaft attachment (quite a few months ago). I have the teeny circular saw blades I need to cut the hole for the dormer in the roof, but I encountered a road block. I can't figure out how to put bits into the flex shaft! I've reread the instructions any number of times, and I can't see how it works. Makes me feel like a real dumb-dumb. I suspect I'll figure it out eventually - perhaps (hopefully) find a YouTube video on it - but until I do, I'm not at all confident a dormer will ever appear in the mansard roof.

In addition to the dormer, I have a fairly ambitious modification in mind for the Rosedale that would be really cool if I could do it. But figuring out the mechanics takes some visualization skills, and I am dreadful at 3D visualization. I simply can't imagine things in 3D (or 2D, but especially 3D). I have to draw them (think on paper) or - for a 3D idea - make models from thick paper or cardboard. I don't want to start a blog until I can clearly visualize how the pieces will come together, see a path to completion. I really hope I can do what I have in mind.

[KathieB]

I've been reading/watching soldering tutorials, and identified the various things I'll need. It adds up. I spend waaaay too much on this hobby. It's somewhat embarrassing - not enough to stop doing it, of course. ;)

All you need is a soldering iron (which comes with a stand), solder, and a damp sponge (to wipe the tip of the iron on as you work to prevent build-up of rosin residue.

There's a product called "tip tinner" that many people use (so I've read), rather than using solder to tin the tip (if I understood what you wrote). Is there are reason you don't use tip tinner?

Had to Google tip tinner as I'd not heard of it. Seems to be another way to get your money. Apparently the tip tinner has some properties that help clean up light oxidation, but if you're wiping the tip between joints and re-tinning it after each use, it shouldn't be necessary.

What is "rosin core"? If you are rubbing solder with rosin core directly on the tip, wouldn't you be getting "rosin core" (whatever that is), on the tip and insulating the heat?

Solder can be solid or hollow with a core of flux material, either rosin or acid. Solid core requires a separate flux paste to be put on the joint before the solder is added; without it, the solder will melt into a lump but not flow. The solder with a core of acid is too harsh for electronics; don't use it. The rosin in the hollow core of the solder may leave a little residue. on the surface of the soldered joint or the tip of the iron. Keep a damp sponge handy to wipe the tip from time to time and all will be well.

It's a good practice to re-tin the tip before you put the iron away. The oxygen in the air will cause the oxidation that insulates the tip and makes it less effective. The tinning keeps the air from reaching the iron tip of the tool while it sits in its box waiting for the next project.

I'm still feeling pretty at sea about this stuff. There are so many things I want to do, but have never done before. I've been spending every evening after work googling and reading, rather than doing more construction on the dollhouse. I don't feel ready to continue moving forward yet. That's okay for a while (I do need to learn), but I don't want to get frozen with fear-of-mistakes again.

I find it's easy for me to over-study and over-think a process. As I said earlier, just do it. Mistakes are great teachers, but you can't make them without getting your hands dirty.

Here's something embarrassing (for example)... I have a Dremel, and I bought the Dremel flex shaft attachment (quite a few months ago). I have the teeny circular saw blades I need to cut the hole for the dormer in the roof, but I encountered a road block. I can't figure out how to put bits into the flex shaft! I've reread the instructions any number of times, and I can't see how it works. Makes me feel like a real dumb-dumb. I suspect I'll figure it out eventually - perhaps (hopefully) find a YouTube video on it - but until I do, I'm not at all confident a dormer will ever appear in the mansard roof.

In this case, your hesitation may be a blessing. Using the circular saw blades with a flexible shaft can be downright dangerous. The blades tend to catch and break, sending needle-sharp shards of metal straight towards your eyes. There is even less control with the flexible shaft than with the solid Dremel tool. You're better off using a very sharp utility knife to cut out the window. Multiple passes with the knife and some patience will do the job a lot more safely than with the Dremel. (FYI, even with using the Dremel for sanding or polishing, always wear safety glasses. No exceptions!)

In addition to the dormer, I have a fairly ambitious modification in mind for the Rosedale that would be really cool if I could do it. But figuring out the mechanics takes some visualization skills, and I am dreadful at 3D visualization. I simply can't imagine things in 3D (or 2D, but especially 3D). I have to draw them (think on paper) or - for a 3D idea - make models from thick paper or cardboard. I don't want to start a blog until I can clearly visualize how the pieces will come together, see a path to completion. I really hope I can do what I have in mind.

I know what you mean. I can sometimes picture what I want to do in my head, but I usually make a cardboard mock-up to be sure I've got all of the bases covered.

Here's a final word of advice from Granny: when I was working on my first doll house, an Orchid, I did well until I got to the wiring, at which point I came to a dead stop. I, too, read everything I could get my hands on but didn't have the confidence to dive in. The house sat for a couple of months, long enough for me to clear out/sublimate all of the information clutter from my poor overstimulated brain. One day I got out all of the materials and got started, taking one step at a time. I have to admit, there is one sconce light in the house that is a bit iffy, but all in all, the job turned out okay, and I learned a lot. Once I got past the fear of the unknown, there was no stopping me.

[havanaholly]

To use those metal saw blades safely, build yourself a jig to mount your rotary tool horizontally with a flat platform (plywood) with a slit the blade can stick up through and use it as a mini table saw.

[permutations]

Had to Google tip tinner as I'd not heard of it. Seems to be another way to get your money. Apparently the tip tinner has some properties that help clean up light oxidation, but if you're wiping the tip between joints and re-tinning it after each use, it shouldn't be necessary.

Your comment led me to look into this more. Apparently, it's not always needed - and actually, it can corrode the tip if you use it too often - but if you really screw up the tip, it can clean it. Sometimes it's the only thing standing between a lost cause and all-better.

Solder can be solid or hollow with a core of flux material, either rosin or acid. Solid core requires a separate flux paste to be put on the joint before the solder is added; without it, the solder will melt into a lump but not flow. The solder with a core of acid is too harsh for electronics; don't use it.

Very interesting! Learn something new every day...

The rosin in the hollow core of the solder may leave a little residue. on the surface of the soldered joint or the tip of the iron. Keep a damp sponge handy to wipe the tip from time to time and all will be well.

Some people use a damp sponge, and some people swear by those brass wire sponges that can double as stands. Any thoughts on that?

Using the circular saw blades with a flexible shaft can be downright dangerous. The blades tend to catch and break, sending needle-sharp shards of metal straight towards your eyes. There is even less control with the flexible shaft than with the solid Dremel tool. You're better off using a very sharp utility knife to cut out the window. Multiple passes with the knife and some patience will do the job a lot more safely than with the Dremel. (FYI, even with using the Dremel for sanding or polishing, always wear safety glasses. No exceptions!)

Well, of course I have good safety glasses. I bought them at the same time I bought the Dremel. That's pretty basic.

Here's a picture of Emily using the mini saw blade in just the way I described, and she didn't die! In fact, she said it was exactly the right tool for the job. This is from one of her blog posts on her Rosedale bash: http://www.emilymorganti.com/blog/?p=3472

If my utility knife is even capable of cutting through 1/8" plywood (seems doubtful), it would take the better part of forever.

I have a question about something in your blog post. You seem to be connecting two things to the transformer somehow. First it's an extension cord and the power strip, and then it's an extension cord and a cord with an on/off switch. A transformer has just one plug, so how are you connecting two things to it? You never show the connection side of the transformer, so I can't see what's under there.

[permutations]

To use those metal saw blades safely, build yourself a jig to mount your rotary tool horizontally with a flat platform (plywood) with a slit the blade can stick up through and use it as a mini table saw.

Have you done this? I can't visualize what a homemade jig for this would look like.

Dremel has an attachment that would allow you to use it as a tiny circular saw: Shaper/Router Table. I've wanted one of these for a while - more for making miniatures than working on a dollhouse - but my apartment is so small, I don't know where I'd put it!

[havanaholly]

I haven't built the jig, because I have a mini table saw. I do use my utility knife to cut new door and window openings; with a new blade it cuts through the 1/8" and 3/16" plywood in three to four fairly even strokes; two to threee firm ones.

You don't necessarily die from using the saw blade as Emily does, but if you hit a snag or other imperfection in one of the wood plies it can make the tool "kick" and pose a threat of some serious injury or loss to body parts.

[KathieB]

Some people use a damp sponge, and some people swear by those brass wire sponges that can double as stands. Any thoughts on that?

I don't know what a brass wire stand is.

Well, of course I have good safety glasses. I bought them at the same time I bought the Dremel. That's pretty basic.

I figured you probably have safety glasses, but you're not the only one reading these posts. The next person looking for information on electrification may not be quite as savvy. I like to cover all the bases.

Here's a picture of Emily using the mini saw blade in just the way I described, and she didn't die! In fact, she said it was exactly the right tool for the job. This is from one of her blog posts on her Rosedale bash: http://www.emilymorganti.com/blog/?p=3472

Emily was lucky that this particular job went smoothly. A knot in one of the internal layers of the plywood in just the wrong place could have snapped the blade and sent bits of it flying. I'm sitting with the better-safe-than-sorry contingent and would never use the Dremel this way nor suggest anyone else do so.

If my utility knife is even capable of cutting through 1/8" plywood (seems doubtful), it would take the better part of forever.

As Holly said, with a sharp knife (new blade), it isn't difficult to cut through 1/6" plywood. In the time we've spent talking about it, you'd probably have it done.

I have a question about something in your blog post. You seem to be connecting two things to the transformer somehow. First it's an extension cord and the power strip, and then it's an extension cord and a cord with an on/off switch. A transformer has just one plug, so how are you connecting two things to it? You never show the connection side of the transformer, so I can't see what's under there.

The underside has two prongs, which plug into the brown extension cord. It also has two screws. The two wires of the power strip cord and the two wires of the toggle switch cord connect to the two screws. Here's an example from the Cir-Kit Concepts website.

[permutations]

I haven't built the jig, because I have a mini table saw. I do use my utility knife to cut new door and window openings; with a new blade it cuts through the 1/8" and 3/16" plywood in three to four fairly even strokes; two to threee firm ones.

You don't necessarily die from using the saw blade as Emily does, but if you hit a snag or other imperfection in one of the wood plies it can make the tool "kick" and pose a threat of some serious injury or loss to body parts.

New blade! Now there's a novel concept.

I haven't changed the blade in my utility knife for so long that I almost forgot it's changeable.

[permutations]

The underside has two prongs, which plug into the brown extension cord. It also has two screws. The two wires of the power strip cord and the two wires of the toggle switch cord connect to the two screws. Here's an example from the Cir-Kit Concepts website.

Ah, I see. Thanks!

[permutations]

I tried putting my furniture into the dollhouse so I could see where I'll need lights, and I discovered that the Rosedale is drastically too small for the standard furnishings that go in a real house. I never realized it until I tried it - like I said, I'm dreadful at 3D visualization.

I talked to my sister about this, and she said that all kit dollhouses have undersized rooms. I didn't know that before, but I sure see it now. She said that oversized furniture crowded into a small room can give a cozy look. Maybe. But the basic furnishing elements don't even fit into this house. I have a wonderful artisan-made tub/shower that is too wide for the Rosedale bathroom - can't even fit it in there. The kitchen is too small for all the standard kitchen appliances, etc.

So my plans for this house have changed. I'm going to finish building it - including the siding and roofing (since I bought these add-ons when I bought the house) - but I won't electrify it, and I won't put in flooring or baseboards (since it needs to be electrified first). And then I will sell it on eBay as a pre-built house, ready for electrification and decoration. I think a pre-built house will be an attractive offering (I hope, anyway). It saves a lot of labor.

And then I will build a custom dollhouse that I design myself, first laying out each room on construction paper so I can see what the dimensions really need to be. I want to build a brownstone.

[havanaholly]

New blade! Now there's a novel concept.

I haven't changed the blade in my utility knife for so long that I almost forgot it's changeable.

You can do almost as much damage to yourself wiith a dull utility knife blade as you can cutting wood with a Dremel metal sawblade.

I tried putting my furniture into the dollhouse so I could see where I'll need lights, and I discovered that the Rosedale is drastically too small for the standard furnishings that go in a real house. I never realized it until I tried it - like I said, I'm dreadful at 3D visualization.

I talked to my sister about this, and she said that all kit dollhouses have undersized rooms. I didn't know that before, but I sure see it now. She said that oversized furniture crowded into a small room can give a cozy look. Maybe. But the basic furnishing elements don't even fit into this house. I have a wonderful artisan-made tub/shower that is too wide for the Rosedale bathroom - can't even fit it in there. The kitchen is too small for all the standard kitchen appliances, etc.

So my plans for this house have changed. I'm going to finish building it - including the siding and roofing (since I bought these add-ons when I bought the house) - but I won't electrify it, and I won't put in flooring or baseboards (since it needs to be electrified first). And then I will sell it on eBay as a pre-built house, ready for electrification and decoration. I think a pre-built house will be an attractive offering (I hope, anyway). It saves a lot of labor.

And then I will build a custom dollhouse that I design myself, first laying out each room on construction paper so I can see what the dimensions really need to be. I want to build a brownstone.

On the other hand, I have learned how to make mini furniture so that I can custom fill my little houses with furniture that fits them.

[permutations]

On the other hand, I have learned how to make mini furniture so that I can custom fill my little houses with furniture that fits them.

I'm looking for a dollhouse to display my collection of 1:12 scale furniture and accessories. I'm not looking to redo the furnishings to fit the dollhouse. Some pictures from my collection: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&album=6507

[glen]

Thats cool. I mean sad it didn't work out for you but now we get to look forward to a really interesting thread on your design and build progress.

I designed babies with sketches and cardboard but if starting again I'd do it all with sketchup. If I can make one suggestion before you start. Buy a door and make the thickness of the walls to suit. That was my one real mistake that I still regret making.

[miniaddicted]

You have some really nice things in your collection - backgammon - love it, workshop tools, eggbeaters, lots of kitchen accessories....I see a busy cook in a kitchen in your future!

[KathieB]

Your collection is marvelous. I can see why you'd want just the right house for it.

[permutations]

If I can make one suggestion before you start. Buy a door and make the thickness of the walls to suit. That was my one real mistake that I still regret making.

Yes!! That's one of my biggest difficulties with the Greenleaf dollhouse kits. The walls are 1/8" rather than 1/4", which is what most dollhouse windows and doors fit into. So it's hard to customize without having to build everything from scratch.

You have some really nice things in your collection - backgammon - love it, workshop tools, eggbeaters, lots of kitchen accessories....I see a busy cook in a kitchen in your future!

Thank you! Most of these things are purchased, but some I worked on myself (for example, I modified the backgammon kit). I want to do more crafting and less buying.

I love full-size kitchen tools and have a million of them, so I guess it's no surprise that I adore the mini ones. I can't resist a beautifully crafted mini kitchen tool. (That egg beater was shamefully expensive.) I love to cook, and I guess the little people living in my one-day-dollhouse will, too!

Your collection is marvelous. I can see why you'd want just the right house for it.

Thanks! Right now I'm having a space crisis. I live in a small apartment in NYC, and as I try to figure out where I'd put a larger dollhouse, I run into one obstacle after another. I'm still trying to sort out the best way to go. Right now I'm digitizing all my cassettes and VHS tapes to make space. Once that's done, I may be able to replace the CD cabinet with a dollhouse! It's very tight in here.

[havanaholly]

Don't some of the 1:12 RGT houses have large rooms? BTW, the little sewing box/ stand totally captivated me!

[Littlehousesplus125]

Have a look at our page on Lighting your Dolls House

[Debra from Olde Cape Cod]

Or you could have your dollhouse made from a bookcase or design a wall hung.

[permutations]

Don't some of the 1:12 RGT houses have large rooms? BTW, the little sewing box/ stand totally captivated me!

What is an RGT house?

I've been working on my Rosedale dollhouse, and - on reflection - I like it and I'm going to keep it. I just have to think about it differently. My original reason for getting a dollhouse was to display my miniature collection. But the truth is, I don't have enough space in my apartment for a dollhouse that large - the Rosedale size really is about my max.

I've rearranged the space in the "mini" area, and now my miniature collection is displayed in a white cabinet orthogonal to the mantle, and I have the dollhouse sitting on top of the mantle. (I'd like to have it sit on a lazy-susan type turntable on the mantle, but I don't know if I can put enough space behind it for that.) It looks nice there, and it's just the right height for viewing.

Maybe I'll just look at the dollhouse as another miniature in its own right, rather than just a display cabinet of sorts. If not that much fits into it, then I can more easily tweak and change it, as an ongoing project - add tiling, hardwood floors, a dormer, etc.

All the outside trim is on. Now what's left is the inside trim, staircase trim, hanging the doors, and adding the siding and shingles (and painting, of course). I don't want to do a lot of customization until I've completed it as designed because it's my first kit. I can always change things later.

[KathieB]

RGT = Real Good Toys, a brand of doll house kits

I think your thinking about displaying your minis has evolved in a good direction. No matter what we'd love to have, space matters. And, as you say, you can always change things later.

[havanaholly]

Also, do you have to display all of your miniatures in ONE house? (thinking wall-hanging house/s, roomboxes, etc)

[permutations]

I just posted two more pictures - one of the Rosedale on the outside, in its present state of finish, the other of the Rosedale furnished - not in any kind of permanent way, just some testing to see what fits.

My miniature corner: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&image=100942

Unfinished Rosedale, furnished: http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/index.php?app=gallery&image=100941

As you can see in the picture of my "miniature corner", I've already devoted a ridiculous amount of space in my apartment to miniatures. I can't afford any more. And as you can see from the furnished picture, it's a very tight fit. Some of my favorite pieces of furniture don't fit at all.

I'd like to see pictures of how others furnished their Rosedales - how they dealt with the very small rooms. Just think how small those rooms would be in a full-size house - claustrophobic! Most of the albums I've seen show only the house, no furnishings.

[permutations]

Do some of the people posting here work for Greenleaf? Or work as moderators in this forum?

[havanaholly]

Do some of the people posting here work for Greenleaf? Or work as moderators in this forum?

At the very bottom of the forum homepage there is a list of titles in the colors and typefaces used here, so when you look at a post you can tell if that person in an administrator or a moderator or a team builder or whatever.