Merry Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 I'm attaching a picture of my cut crown molding in hopes that some genius can tell me what I'm doing wrong. This is an inside corner cut (supposedly). They don't fit. They're supposed to fit, but they don't. I turned the molding upside down, blah blah blah. As I am about to torch my entire dollhouse, any suggestions or help will be most appreciated. Do you take credit cards or would you like cash? Money is no object. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparklepuppies Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Hi Mary! Have you tried Holly's Tutorial? It really helped me. http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/i...q=sc&cat=43 And here's a picture of my test pieces that I keep, so that I don't have to remember how to do it every time. Notice that they are angled differently than yours, the angle goes diagonal, both up and down, and front to back. Hope that makes sense. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlene Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 Ah, crown moulding, the bane of dollhousers The tutorial should help you out. What you appear to have done is to place your pieces into your mitre box incorrectly. Look carefully at Tracy's -- you'll see the difference Take a breath and try again -- you'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Thank you, Tracy, for you reply. This time I took pictures of Holly's tutorial, along with a picture of your "ends," and a print out of Holly's tutorial, and the kitchen sink, etc. Cross your fingers. If you hear a scream from the middle of the United States, you'll know it did not go well. Pray for quiet....no, I'll probably scream either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Ah, crown moulding, the bane of dollhousers The tutorial should help you out. What you appear to have done is to place your pieces into your mitre box incorrectly. Look carefully at Tracy's -- you'll see the difference Take a breath and try again -- you'll get it. Bane! The exact word!! I think you're right in that I've laid in my pieces incorrectly. I'm beginning to think I'm really a visual person. Thank you for you kind reply. Deep breath in, deep breath out, deep breath in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 16, 2010 Author Share Posted October 16, 2010 Let's just say it didn't work again. I'll try again tomorrow, and if it doesn't work out, I'll try an alternative topping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlene Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Mary, I'm visual, too. Let's try it this way. Get your miter box and a piece of scrap moulding. Look at your moulding. It's very dimensional. The carved side faces outward and the back, unlike baseboard, has a loose L shape and this L forms the ceiling side and the wall side. Decide which side of the uncarved 'back' will meet the ceiling and mark it. You need to lay it into the miter box so that the angle is cut to the ceiling and wall side of the moulding. For an inside corner, the ceiling needs to be shorter than the wall; for an outside corner, the ceiling is longer than the wall. Put the moulding in the box with the ceiling side facing down. Put the wall side toward the fence (wall) of your miter box closest to you. The carved face with be exposed but facing away from you. Put your saw on the right side of the box and select the 45 deg angle. That's a 45 deg right inside corner. To do the joining piece (45 degree left inside), cut your molding from the left side. Turn the piece so that the ceiling is still down, but the wall side is against the back fence (wall) of your box. The carved face is now toward you. Select your 45 degree angle -- that's a 45 deg left outside corner and the joining piece (the 45 deg right outside) will be done the same way from the left. To do the opposite identical corners, use the 45 deg angles at the opposite side of your box and follow the same steps. Just remember that when you're cutting, the carved side of the moulding is always exposed -- the ceiling is down and the wall is at the wall of the box. Hope this will help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreativitea75 Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Once you get it you should keep a couple of correctly trimmed pieces as suggested above. I find it incredibly helpful as I have a hard time just looking at it and trying to figure it out and have gone back to my test pieces time and time again. Wishing you success, peace, and calm! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 17, 2010 Author Share Posted October 17, 2010 Mary, I'm visual, too. Let's try it this way. Get your miter box and a piece of scrap moulding. Look at your moulding. It's very dimensional. The carved side faces outward and the back, unlike baseboard, has a loose L shape and this L forms the ceiling side and the wall side. Decide which side of the uncarved 'back' will meet the ceiling and mark it. You need to lay it into the miter box so that the angle is cut to the ceiling and wall side of the moulding. For an inside corner, the ceiling needs to be shorter than the wall; for an outside corner, the ceiling is longer than the wall. Put the moulding in the box with the ceiling side facing down. Put the wall side toward the fence (wall) of your miter box closest to you. The carved face with be exposed but facing away from you. Put your saw on the right side of the box and select the 45 deg angle. That's a 45 deg right inside corner. To do the joining piece (45 degree left inside), cut your molding from the left side. Turn the piece so that the ceiling is still down, but the wall side is against the back fence (wall) of your box. The carved face is now toward you. Select your 45 degree angle -- that's a 45 deg left outside corner and the joining piece (the 45 deg right outside) will be done the same way from the left. To do the opposite identical corners, use the 45 deg angles at the opposite side of your box and follow the same steps. Just remember that when you're cutting, the carved side of the moulding is always exposed -- the ceiling is down and the wall is at the wall of the box. Hope this will help. Well, Charlene, if you aren't the sweetest person in the world, then I don't know who is! I will print out your tutorial, read it word by word, memorize it, and have it buried with me when I die. Thank you for taking the time to write the instructions down for me. Hopefully, it will work this time, and perhaps, your tutorial will help others also. Once you get it you should keep a couple of correctly trimmed pieces as suggested above. I find it incredibly helpful as I have a hard time just looking at it and trying to figure it out and have gone back to my test pieces time and time again. Wishing you success, peace, and calm! Kerry, thank you so very much for your reply. I'll keep trying until I get it; you've given me hope! I'll be thinking of good things as I go so I'll remain calm and cool. :neo: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted October 17, 2010 Share Posted October 17, 2010 Be like the Little Engine That Could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Be like the Little Engine That Could. I knew I could! I knew I could! I knew I could! I did it!!! Yea me! (I'm kissing my own arm right now.) I would like to thank Charlene, Holly, Kerry, everyone on the forum, my parents, my school teachers, and Bill Gates. Right now I feel so awesome, like I should have been a brain surgeon or something. Thank you! :neo: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparklepuppies Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Yea you! Congrats, we knew you could do it! Now can't wait to see pictures!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 18, 2010 Author Share Posted October 18, 2010 Oh, thank you, Tracy! I will upload pictures as soon as I get more crown molding! HA!!!! Let's just say it was an expensive lesson to learn. Oh well, my husband loves it when I buy more mini stuff! Not! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbnmini Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 And thank you from the rest of us reading this thread!!! :neo: I am always begging my hubby (a kitchen installer) to give me some hints on how to cut mouldings, but his response is always the same: "you'll learn by doing". I think the hints here today were VERY helpful - thanks bunches!! Maybe now I can stop using so much caulk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlene Posted October 18, 2010 Share Posted October 18, 2010 Y'all are welcome. But, Mary, being buried with the instructions would be extreme even by my standards Just remember: Wall-to-wall and ceiling down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merry Posted October 19, 2010 Author Share Posted October 19, 2010 Y'all are welcome. But, Mary, being buried with the instructions would be extreme even by my standards Just remember: Wall-to-wall and ceiling down. :neo: Hi Charlene! I was feeling pretty extreme when I was trying to cut that crown molding. HA! Okay, I will remember wall-to-wall and ceiling down. I'll just have that tattooed on my hand! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.