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Kit pieces delaminating


Osakisgirl

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I've just started my first-ever dollhouse kit, the Greenleaf Magnolia. I ordered it through Overstock.com. I'm having some trouble with the pieces delaminating as I'm sanding them. It's mostly on the back sides of the pieces, but occasionally a little chunk will drop out of the front of a piece. I've been trying to patch the gaps with wood filler.

Can a more experienced miniaturist provide insight on why my pieces are coming apart (perhaps the wood is overdry?) and perhaps offer advice on how to minimize the damage?

Thanks for any guidance you can provide!

Keri

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Hi Keri, and welcome to the community!

The chipping you're encountering is part of the nature of plywood, and it may be exacerbated if the wood is overly dry. We just never know where these houses have been before they get to us!

Some people have had success by priming both sides of the sheets with a sanding primer before they punch out the pieces. If you try this, be sure to do both sides of the sheet or you'll find the sheets will warp a bit. (Putting the sheet between layers of waxed paper and weighting it down with heavy books or paint cans or something similar will assure it dries flat. Leave it for a few days, to be sure it's really dry.)

I had some problems with wood filler drying and crumbling and being generally uncooperative, so I've joined the folks who fill the chipped bits with Spackle. I find smoothing it on with my fingertip, letting it dry, and sanding lightly does the trick.

You'll find out quickly that there are several ways to accomplish every one of the multitude of tasks involved in building a dollhouse. The "right way" is the way that works for you. :flowers:

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Hi Keri and welcome!!

I dont use wood filler either. I use plain old spackle that you use to fill holes in sheet rock walls. I have never had any trouble. If any of the pieces that need filling are going to be stained...umm I dont know what you could use. It will definitely show thru.

I have a nifty trick for you that I learned. I have a really old kit (Skilcraft colonial) and I couldnt find any sandpaper while I was getting in the groove. I used lunchbag paper. It gives a nice even sanding. It may sound weird but I swear on the last strong hairs on my head that it works! Give it a try!

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the wood is overdry
Yup
offer advice on how to minimize the damage
I don't give advice, I pass along what has worked for me, which is to keep a small puddle of woodglue on a piece of waxed paper and lightly touch the puddle with a toothpick and transfer the gleu to the hole and pop the delaminated piece back in, wipe off any excess glue and clamp the jujubes out of it (if I want to stain, otherwise I just hit it with the spackle, too). You don't have to use sealer on both sides at once, just seal one side and let it dry flat, then flip it over and seal the other side and let it dry flat again. If i'ts warped before you start, use one of the methods discussed elswhere to flatten it out and then proceed to seal.

I use brown paper grocerybag to do final sanding, it gives an awesomely silky satin patina to wood when you use it to finish a turned piece (just be careful not to start a fire with it whilst the piece is still spinning on the lathe).

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Thanks for all the advice! I had planned to follow the directions provided with the kit to a T, since I don't know what I'm doing, but I gather there are some things the company recommends that experienced miniaturists don't sanction, such as using hot glue to construct the house (wood glue is the preferred choice?). I followed the directions and dipped the pieces in a 50/50 solution of shellac and denatured alcohol to seal them. Is that the best way to go?

Thanks again for your assistance to this newbie!

Keri

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dipped the pieces in a 50/50 solution of shellac and denatured alcohol
Getting that close to denatured alcohol scares the willies out of me, but if you're not going to stain anything (or if you've already stained it) then the dip ought to seal your wood well enough not to have delaminiation be a big problem. Since I only seal to minimize warping, which includes letting the plywood sheets dry flat, I brush the premixed clear sanding sealer on one side at a time and lay it on waxed paper sheets to dry; usually within an hour it's dry enough to flip over & seal the second side.
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