DigDug Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 I thought my doll house was the 505, but I have researched it and it is the FH500 for the Duracraft 500 Dollhouse. If anyone has a set of instructions that they would be willing to share, I would be forever grateful. I can be contacted at japanimport@yahoo.com :angry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LPCullen Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 What's the difference between the two Julie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minis On The Edge Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 This is what the Farmhouse 500 Looks Like This is what the Farmhouse 505 looks like There is also the Bellingham Farmhouse and another one I can' think of right now. :angry: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 I too am missing the instructions for the FH500 Farm House. My mom started putting it together for me when I was little and never finished...now I gave the half built dollhouse to my daughter for her 5th birthday and would like to get started on it right away... Have you had any luck finding the instructions??? Your help would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PATBIDLACK Posted July 14, 2008 Share Posted July 14, 2008 http://cgi.ebay.com/DURA-CRAFT-Dollhouse-I...807121527r12842 They are for sale on ebay for 5.99. Why don't o ne of you buy them and then when they are through sell them to the other one for 3.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thystle Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Did either of you ever get the instructions you needed? I have done this house, and I'd be glad to help if you have any questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I did take the advice I got and bought the instructions on ebay....The only problem is I am missing a few pieces but I guess the instructions were copied on a copier and since the print is so...small I can't read alot of the dimensions of the pieces. Like the glass for the small windows is missing and I'm not sure what the correct dimensions are. Would you happen to know the answer to that??? And one other basic question I have is do I attach the roof to the house before I attach the shingles to the house??? Thats what I got from the instructions which actuall makes since the weight of the roof with the shingles on may make it heavier to attach. Thanks for the help... I havent' noticed too many people that have done this house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thystle Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I did take the advice I got and bought the instructions on ebay....The only problem is I am missing a few pieces but I guess the instructions were copied on a copier and since the print is so...small I can't read alot of the dimensions of the pieces. Like the glass for the small windows is missing and I'm not sure what the correct dimensions are. Would you happen to know the answer to that??? And one other basic question I have is do I attach the roof to the house before I attach the shingles to the house??? Thats what I got from the instructions which actuall makes since the weight of the roof with the shingles on may make it heavier to attach. Thanks for the help... I havent' noticed too many people that have done this house. First of all, you're welcome, glad I can help!! This is a neat house. Yes, the roof is installed before shingling. You'll need to mark some lines with a pencil on the roof panels, the first line 1 1/8 inch from the bottom, and the rest 1 inch apart from there to lay the shingles out once the roof panels are on. If you did the shingles first, it would be tricky to get the edges to meet where the gable goes on. According to page 3 in the instructions (subassembly No. 4, Standard Windows), the plastic sizes are: 2 3/16 x 4 7/16 -- 7 pieces (the small windows) 4 7/16 x 6/58 -- 7 pieces (the large windows) I hope this helps. Let me know if you have have any trouble seeing how the windows go together,or any other questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I do have another question. Where do I start? I have to do windows, the doors, the porch, the roof, electricity and painting of the outside. Should I install the doors before the porch? Should I paint the exterior before installing the windows, roof, and porch? I keep jumping from task to task without having any real direction. Should I do the porch and porch roof before I do the main roof? I guess these are my biggest issues at this moment. Thank you so much for your advice I definately need all I can get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thystle Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I do have another question. Where do I start? I have to do windows, the doors, the porch, the roof, electricity and painting of the outside. Should I install the doors before the porch? Should I paint the exterior before installing the windows, roof, and porch? I keep jumping from task to task without having any real direction. Should I do the porch and porch roof before I do the main roof? I guess these are my biggest issues at this moment. Thank you so much for your advice I definately need all I can get. So the walls are already built? Just needing the roof and porch roof? I would paint before I put the roof on, since there are some spots at the top of the walls that are tricky to get to, and under where the porch roof goes it would be awkward to reach into as well. Then put the windows and doors in before putting the porch roof on, since there are two doors and two windows that are under the porch roof. I would do the main roof before the porch. Oh, and do the shingling on the gable (pointed) ends of the walls before putting the roof on--that's in the instructions, page 2. I guess that would be easier, but I think I jumped around in the process too, and didn't, which left me cutting some shingles into little pieces, which was a pain! These Duracraft instructions are pretty straight-forward, but if your house was partially built when you got it, you'll have to figure out if any steps were skipped or altered, and go from there. Now, as far as electrifying, that needs to be done before you paint or paper the inside. There is a good tutorial on this forum that explains tape wire. Since there's nothing about wiring in the instructions for the house, follow the tutorial and/or whatever wiring kit you use. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 Thanks...we actually just bought the paint today. I'm hoping to have it painted by the time she gets home form her dads(Monday). And I did see the tutorial about electrification and I think its great; now I'm not so afraid. But thanks for the heads up. The more I do to this house the more excited I get. I remember my mom and I spending hours looking at things for it and then I guess I just got too old by the time she got anywhere with it... and I tell you since my daughters been able to do things like choose the paint she wants she's really become quite patient even though she's five. As long as I keep making progress I'm sure she'll be patient to get it all just the way she wants it. I've already offered to pay her a quarter for extra chores and she's ready so she can save and buy things she wants. I'm so happy right now.. Again thank you for your help...you'll never know just what it means to us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 Oh question what are the dimensions for part no. 5-95 fillet molding for final assembly part 3 page 11 roof; step 6. I can't read them and apparently theres only one piece that will work and I must find it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thystle Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 It sounds like this is a great project for you and your daughter--you must be happy to finish the house and make a new childhood memory for your daughter! The filet molding part 5-95 is a triangle piece, 1/2 x 1/2 (on the two adjacent right angle sides) and 32 5/8" long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted August 16, 2008 Share Posted August 16, 2008 Well I got her painted and haven't done much since because we went on vacation. Now we're back and I'm ready to start again. I've got the main roof on but I have a question about the smaller roof on the front. The roof cap isn't flush with sides that rest on the main roof. Should I cut it down or just glue it on??? I took some pictures if that would help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted August 17, 2008 Share Posted August 17, 2008 Stacy, I would make the roofcap flush with the front edge; the shingles will likely take care of the rest. BTW, I'd wait on roofcaps until after the roof is all assembled and you've begun shingling; just mark where the roofcap will come and lay your shingles just up to that line. Dura-Craft houses offer a lot of challenges for fitting, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dall97 Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 I'm back....First of all I'm so glad you're here, that you've done this house and that you're willing to help. I've actually gotten all the small windows in and I've run my first line of tapewire and it went off without a hitch. Then I realized with the floor supports there it may be kind of difficult working the tape wire in all of those second floor joice supports so I'm running a main line all the way across the ceiling through the stairwell and along the upstairs floor. In the meantime I found the hole in the floor is not big enough to put the stairs in because of the floor supports so I've decided to cut away the floor support right there in the stairwell. Is that the correct way of thinking???? And what in the world can I use to cut the piece away from the outside wall. I tried using the dremel but I've broken several of the circular saw blades.....I'm at a loss and not real up to date on tools to use on dollhouses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thystle Posted August 30, 2008 Share Posted August 30, 2008 Maybe you could use the Dremel to cut the section that you want to remove, and then use something like Undo to soften the glue? I learned that Undo trick from someone on this board, and it works like a charm to loosen glue. Cut like this: l------l, with the solid lines representing the cuts, and the dotted line being the section of floor support. Cut from the edge to the wall, which should work ok with the Dremel (I've cut my walls with a Dremel, just go slow.) Then work the Undo along the glued edge. I found Undo in the scrapbooking section, but I've heard is not being sold anymore. Perhaps Goo Gone or something similiar will work. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 I don't recommend cutting wood with the Dremel unless you have it mounted with a steel sawblade to use as a ripping saw. The tool can jump and those cut-off wheels can shatter. Instead, either use a hobby saw (hand saw) or a utility knife to make your cuts. And for heaven's sake, wear safety goggles with a cutting device on a power tool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paceus Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 First, to Thystle, love the charmed house.........gotta love the wiccan wonder! AND I am a charmed junkie as well. When you make that house, I gotta see it. The charmed doll house in the Haliwell attic opens from the center.....great design to get the full effect. ANYWAY, you know duricraft always prides themselves as available and always willing to send missing or broken parts, even if you break them yourself....they say that they will send free but....how to contact them is a real issue. In the instruction sheet, they give you an address and phone number but the phones are either actually fax machines or disconnected and when I wrote to them using the address that they give to use to request missing pieces, it came back "return to sender".....wrong address. If ANYONE out there knows the correct address or has a way to contact the Duracraft company, please let me know !!!!! mary ann Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Mary Ann, Dura-Craft went out of business a few years ago and now the only way to buy instructions, missing trim or kits is through Ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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