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Garfield or any house painting help needed


Vickid
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I have the foundation done.  I started by writing in pencil, the numbers and names of the pieces, then though when I base paint them I will be painting over the writing.  Another suggestion was using masking tape to write on.  Now i'm on sheet 15, and realized the tape has to come off also, but I could put the tape next to the piece.  But why aren't I painting the whole sheet, if I'm not going to stain it yet. and it would leave .sides with nothing to make gule useless.  Other the other thing I read is dipping the part in a mixture of 50%/50% of something to seal the wood.

I do have a problem with over thinking and I think I have TMI.  Please help me.  I am stopping for a few days.  Pellets are getting low and I would like to get the parts sealed or at least sanded before I more it all from my studio to the house.

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9 hours ago, Vickid said:

But why aren't I painting the whole sheet, if I'm not going to stain it yet. and it would leave .sides with nothing to make gule useless.  Other the other thing I read is dipping the part in a mixture of 50%/50% of something to seal the wood.

You are not painting the whole sheet because the paint would seal the cut lines and make it devilishly difficult to remove the individual pieces.

The shellac/alcohol  sealant is a suggestions, not mandatory. Anything that will seal the wood to prevent the naturally-occurring chemicals will work -- stain, Kilz primer, gesso, leftover latex house paint, etc. 

Writing the name of the piece with pencil is the best way to go. This will help you find the piece when you need it. Once you get to the point in the build where the piece is used, it doesn't matter if the identification is painted over.

If you are in a hurry to get the sanding done prior to assembly, consider putting the smaller like pieces in plastic bags, with the contents clearly marked: "windows", staircase", "doorways trim", etc.

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When I first dry fit my house (assemble it using painter's tape) I draw a pencil line along the edges where I will glue and when I take the house apart to begin staining or priming I first cut painter's tape into strips 1/4" wide and mask off all the edges where I will glue later.  Once I have stained or primed I remove the tape.

10 hours ago, Vickid said:

... why aren't I painting the whole sheet, if I'm not going to stain it yet...

Because stain won't work over paint?  But if you prime or paint a part you wanted stained you'll find that out the hard way, as I have done.  Another reason I dry fit the house before I ever drip the first drop of glue is to see which parts I want to stain and which I want to prime for later painting or papering.  Oh, and since it's the Garfield, dry fitting will show you which areas you will want to decorate before assembling with glue, like stairwells and hallways.

I actually painted the sheets of one of my early builds; believe what KathieB said about trying to remove the pieces once you've done that.

Sometimes the pencil will show through a single coat of primer, so erase the part name before you paint (or tape might be a better idea); I keep the schematics sheet at hand and find the part on that, but because the Garfield is so huge writing on the "back" side of pieces is probably best, especially for window and door frames and stair parts that it won't show once they're glued into place and you've forgotten to erase.

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I'm so glad I asked.  I thought they were silly questions and the next think I did would be paint the smaller sheets with the tiny pieces.  It looks like I've saved myself a headache.

I haven't started the pellet stove up yet.  Only 7 bags until the project moves inside.  So I think I am going to get the stairs and work on them inside the house.  If i'm too messy I'll buy a ton of pellets now instead of the spring.

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