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JSundbakken

Duracraft roof fit issues (Linfield)

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I am constructing the Duracraft linfield and I’m dry fitting the roof, but it’s just not fitting right. Do they ever? Should I sand and try to figure it out or glue and fill in with wood putty? I have done everything correct with the instructions, so I don’t know what’s best to do. Any suggestions?

564F0068-5419-4508-B795-17770574DA2C.jpeg

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I've always found that Dura-Crafts fit together rather well.....but wow, that is a major gap!

Hmm.... if all the other pieces are square and properly seated/fit together, my fix would be to cut a wedge of scrap wood and glue it into the gap, spackle and then go ahead with gluing on the roof.

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  Like Jackie said - Or if you have the means to cut another piece, Ply hold it up and pencil out the pattern and cut. If you don't have the equipment you might kniow someone that could help.

 

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Thanks for the advice!  Some other parts of the roof aren’t fitting around the gables and one wall side back right and the floors....so I must be glazing/looking over some issue. I’ll keep studying.

I did have a piece of the right back wall come out of the box split off and missing so I had to repair that vertically for the walls and post construction. But it fit for that part of the build. The 3rd floor didn’t fit best-the left wall has a small gap. Maybe that caused another problem?

Don’t worry, I’ll get it!   

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With Dura-Craft it could be something as simple as one piece being out of plumb.  You will, indeed, figure it out.

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Hi Jennifer, thats very frustrating! I haven't ever built a DuraCraft, but you sparked my curiosity. I googled some stuff...found a video about the build Not sure if it will help but you may be able to gleen something from it. Good luck!

 

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I actually watched the VHS tape that came with the SF 555 and the one take-away I remember was that sometimes things had to be carved on to achieve a good fit.

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Thanks! I have watched the video, but the guy says “the roof should center itself” but I guess he’s an expert. ;)

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22 minutes ago, JSundbakken said:

Thanks! I have watched the video, but the guy says “the roof should center itself” but I guess he’s an expert. ;)

Remember that his company is out of business.

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Which duracraft are you building? Is it mdf or ply?

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Dura Craft Linfield LN-190, It was made in the 90s.  Not sure, but I think it's plywood, it splinters and needs a lot of sanding for smoothness.

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Personally I would place a shim in the bottom and force the upper section of the triangle up into the gable. 

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I've had fitting fits with my Newberg, which looks to be almost the same as the Linfield. It's the corner posts-- too much slop in them, and if one doesn't take care from the bottom up, I've learned the hard way :dunce:, huge gaps emerge at the top! (I filled in 2nd floor gaps with matboard additions... And roof gaps with trim...)

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2 hours ago, rbytsdy said:

I've had fitting fits with my Newberg, which looks to be almost the same as the Linfield. It's the corner posts-- too much slop in them, and if one doesn't take care from the bottom up, I've learned the hard way :dunce:, huge gaps emerge at the top! (I filled in 2nd floor gaps with matboard additions... And roof gaps with trim...)

I didn't want to read that.  I have a Newberg still in its box that I was thinking of starting, once I get over whatever block I'm having finishing Brimble's.

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I had these issues with the Heritage.  Partly because I made so many bashed changes to it as I built it and partly because it wasn't square to start.  I added braces and fixes - here's the blog post on it.  Maybe it will help.  In fact, one of the comments on my post was from someone who had an issue with a Linfield.  Good luck!

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/rickety-persnickety-house

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Thanks everyone for your help!  Mine does look almost exactly like otterine's house with the walls and flloors not quite matching up.  I am making stencils of the walls for wallpaper and floors since I will be electrifying for the first time!  Cross fingers.  So....I can use the stencils to help, but it will be a lot of cut and paste.  Looking on the bright side, maybe I can use some the gaps to run wire through?  I have eliminated the staircases and holes in the floor for them so I have more decorating space.  

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22 hours ago, Sable said:

Personally I would place a shim in the bottom and force the upper section of the triangle up into the gable. 

Sable, that would awesome :) , but the way the model is built, the triangle for the gable in the third floor is connected to the lower walls in the first and second floor in one piece. Humph!

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Good luck, I love my Dura Craft houses but watching his demonstration about making the miter cuts, I was thinking, “and that’s why you went out of business” .

For me, with DC houses it works best to cut to fit, and not make any pre-cuts. 

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