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Chrysnbon Kit


Cathy C

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I'm waiting for HBS's April sale and will get the dry-sink with a pump attached. Anxious to start on it. I made the bathroom ensemble that they make and had a lot of fun with it. One word of caution - when you use the plastic glue, be sure everything is where you want it! There's no taking it apart!  I realized too late that I put the radiator/heater together backwards, but unless someone knows what to look for, it is not obvious. 

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I'm waiting for HBS's April sale and will get the dry-sink with a pump attached. Anxious to start on it. I made the bathroom ensemble that they make and had a lot of fun with it. One word of caution - when you use the plastic glue, be sure everything is where you want it! There's no taking it apart!  I realized too late that I put the radiator/heater together backwards, but unless someone knows what to look for, it is not obvious.

Thank you for the tip. I've never worked with plastic and glue.

HBS has an April sale?! That's great! If I do well with these kits, I also want the Victorian bathroom, ice box and dry sink w/hand pump.

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I would definitely do the table and chairs, first.

 

I use Testor's non-toxic model glue. It takes a while to set up, but you can glue up several sub-assemblies at the same time to speed up construction. Use a sharp craft knife or razor blade to cut pieces off of the trees. You can use the edge of the blade or fine sandpaper to get the mold lines off, if they bother you.  

 

For paint, I've used spray paint on a few pieces with no problems. For a stained wood look, I use a half and half mix of acrylic craft paint and glazing medium. You can either dab it off when it's wet or scrape with a toothpick when it's dry if you want to simulate wear. When it's dry, the paint is still a little fragile, so I finish it with clear Krylon spray.  

 

I have the potbelly stove kit that I've been staring at for ages, waiting to decide what color it needs to be. Not black...

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I would definitely do the table and chairs, first.

 

I use Testor's non-toxic model glue. It takes a while to set up, but you can glue up several sub-assemblies at the same time to speed up construction. Use a sharp craft knife or razor blade to cut pieces off of the trees. You can use the edge of the blade or fine sandpaper to get the mold lines off, if they bother you.  

 

For paint, I've used spray paint on a few pieces with no problems. For a stained wood look, I use a half and half mix of acrylic craft paint and glazing medium. You can either dab it off when it's wet or scrape with a toothpick when it's dry if you want to simulate wear. When it's dry, the paint is still a little fragile, so I finish it with clear Krylon spray.  

 

I have the potbelly stove kit that I've been staring at for ages, waiting to decide what color it needs to be. Not black...

Very helpful, thank you SO much!

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I have a post on removing seams and getting wood grain back.

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/chrysnbon-rocking-chair-and-foot

 

Here's how you can get a two-tone tub.  I've made the bathroom kit a couple of times.

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/copper-claw-foot-tub

 

I've also built the two different potbelly stoves.  I second the Testors glue and spray paint advice.  To get glue in tiny places, you can taper a toothpick to a point with an X-Acto blade.

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I have a post on removing seams and getting wood grain back.

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/chrysnbon-rocking-chair-and-foot

 

Here's how you can get a two-tone tub.  I've made the bathroom kit a couple of times.

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/copper-claw-foot-tub

 

I've also built the two different potbelly stoves.  I second the Testors glue and spray paint advice.  To get glue in tiny places, you can taper a toothpick to a point with an X-Acto blade.

Brae, you do such beautiful work! I hadn't even thought of the seams and injection spots. Thank you for sharing your tips, I really appreciate it!

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I built the drop leaf table and found the legs to be fragile.  I dropped it and three of the legs snapped off.  The legs were always a little wonky after that...

I'm sorry that happened to you, but thank you for the warning. That's something I'm always concerned about.... Breaking something after I worked so hard on it.

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I haven't been a happy camper with the nontoxic Testor's; for whatever reason it just doesn't want to stick the polystyrene parts together.  When I want to paint the kits I give the pieces a liht spritz of gray flat aerosol primer and then have at it with the acrylic paints (except the kitchen range;  I sprayed it with flat black before aging it with acrylic paints):

gallery_8_8_11792.jpg

For the icebox  and other wood-looking items I give them a coat of regular stain and when it's dry I hit it with a coat of clear sealer.  I love the Chrysnbon kits!

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I haven't been a happy camper with the nontoxic Testor's; for whatever reason it just doesn't want to stick the polystyrene parts together.  When I want to paint the kits I give the pieces a liht spritz of gray flat aerosol primer and then have at it with the acrylic paints (except the kitchen range;  I sprayed it with flat black before aging it with acrylic paints):

gallery_8_8_11792.jpg

For the icebox  and other wood-looking items I give them a coat of regular stain and when it's dry I hit it with a coat of clear sealer.  I love the Chrysnbon kits!

Thank you for the tips. Your pieces are so realistic! The kit directions say to paint/stain before assembly. Is that how you do it, or is it better to paint/stain after glueing?

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It depends on the piece.  If you do paint on the sprue (tree), then you will need to scrape the paint from the joins in order for the cement to work properly. Some pieces you'd want to assemble, fill the seams with putty, sand, then spray (like the toilet).  When you look at the kit instructions, you should be able to figure out which approach is best.

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It depends on the piece.  If you do paint on the sprue (tree), then you will need to scrape the paint from the joins in order for the cement to work properly. Some pieces you'd want to assemble, fill the seams with putty, sand, then spray (like the toilet).  When you look at the kit instructions, you should be able to figure out which approach is best.

Ahhh, that makes sense. What kind of putty and sand paper do you use?

I realize I've asked a lot of questions.... thank you for your patience!

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I agree with Brae. I've built a lot of the kits. I made the mistake of painting the curio cabinet before gluing and it became a problem fitting that piece together. I managed, but had to do a lot of scraping first.

They are wonderful kits and there is a lot you can do with them :)

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I agree with Brae. I've built a lot of the kits. I made the mistake of painting the curio cabinet before gluing and it became a problem fitting that piece together. I managed, but had to do a lot of scraping first.

They are wonderful kits and there is a lot you can do with them :)

Thanks for the tip. These kits look so nice in members' gallery photos.... I just have to try them!

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You can make lovely polystyrene putty from the Testor's in the red tube and scrapings of flashing and sprues you don't want to save for plumbing fixtures.

Ohh, that's clever! I never would have thought of doing that. Thank you, Holly!

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Ahhh, that makes sense. What kind of putty and sand paper do you use?

I realize I've asked a lot of questions.... thank you for your patience!

 

Testors makes a contour putty -- it can be tricky so try it on some spare plastic to get a feel for it.  There are also thin films.  You need a high count grit, meaning it feels really smooth.  Scratches on plastic can show under paint.

 

There's a pic of the films here:

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/hampton-house-inspiration-and-painting

 

I also use the white sanding sticks from Hobby Lobby, but those are coarser, so you will have to sand over with the films to really smooth the surface.  It just takes some practice, but they are great kits.

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Testors makes a contour putty -- it can be tricky so try it on some spare plastic to get a feel for it.  There are also thin films.  You need a high count grit, meaning it feels really smooth.  Scratches on plastic can show under paint.

 

There's a pic of the films here:

http://www.otterine.com/blog/blog1.php/hampton-house-inspiration-and-painting

 

I also use the white sanding sticks from Hobby Lobby, but those are coarser, so you will have to sand over with the films to really smooth the surface.  It just takes some practice, but they are great kits.

I'll get the supplies tomorrow. I'm eager to get started. I'm not expecting my first pieces to turn out great, but I'll get better with practice.

Thanks again!!

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