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Glueing windows


CutnStuf

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I've been searching the site for an answer to this, but no cigar! We've been trying to assemble the clear plastic "windows" to the window frames, but they don't stick very well. We are using white glue per the instructions, which I assume refers to Elmer's or an equivalent. But they barely hold and just pop out at the slightest touch. Are they referring to another type of glue or is this the norm? Should I be using a different adhesive? HELP!!! :frusty:

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I haven't used the Elmer's glue in my builds. Their white (school) glue doesn't hold much. I primarily use Quick Grip. Others on here use other adhesives. But I find that if I use Quick Grip with the windows that come with the kits that you have to be very careful. Another glue I use is Aleene's Turbo Tacky glue or the Aleene's original Tacky Glue. It grips and holds much better then Elmer's glue. It has been a long time since I have used the windows that come in a kit, though. I have been (lately) using tips I got from this site and cutting my windows from the thicker clear plastic you get when you buy a cake or pie (or similar) from a deli or bakery. With this I use Quick Grip to put the windows up and it doesn't harm the 'window'.

I know there are many different adhesives and many of us have our own preferences. I'm just saying that Quick Grip and Aleene's are the glues I use and they hold pretty well. I haven't had a window pop out at a touch, yet.

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I also use Aleene's glues (both white and clear). I glue the window onto the one part of the door (or window), wait until dry, and then glue the second part over it.

The window plastic isn't always big enough for the space, so I scoot it over to the top/left sides to get a better grip with the glue and only minimal plastic is left inside the bottom/right sections of wood. Hope that makes sense!

So far my windows hold up pretty well.

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I don't use the school glue. For the clear acetate inserts I use Elmer's all-purpose white glue (it dries clear) and I handle the window by its frame, as the acetate might or might not pop loose, but my fingers will eventually mess up the acetate. I use the wood glue in a thin bead near the outer edge of the frame to glue the windows to the walls. I used the all-purpose glue on the inserts for my scratch-built pin-hinged windows I made for the Washington 2.0 I'm working on and I have had no popping loose of anything.

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I use Elmer's white wood glue (not school glue).

I work primarily in half scale and there isn't a lot of surface area for gluing, so my trick is to do windows last. I usually install them on the inside. I first glue the acetate to the window trim using just the tiniest dots of glue at the corners. I'm only concerned with holding the acetate in place on the trim. When that has dried I then carefully paint a thin coat of glue on the trim piece and attach it to the window opening. This way I avoid getting glue on the acetate (which is hard to clean off) and the trim holds the window firmly in place.

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Aileen's tacky, that's what I use. I also clamp the sandwiches windows with binder clamps until dry and they don't pop open. Make sure you don't miss any spots though because they will pop if there are dry areas.

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