Has anyone tried replacing the windows in the Rosedale?

[permutations]

I'm building a 1:12 laser cut Rosedale dollhouse (variation). I don't like the Rosedale windows - cheapo cellophane, nothing opens - and I'd like to replace the windows with working windows. However, the working windows I've found for purchase require walls that are 1/2" thick, and the Rosedale walls are 1/16" thick. Is there any way around this? Has anyone tried replacing the Rosedale windows?

Thanks.

[permutations]

Oh duh - it occurs to me that this is solved pretty easily with thick siding - bricks, whatever.

[Dalesq]

I was just going to respond; that's what most do when they change out windows on these kits.

I hope you are starting a gallery so we can see what you are doing.

[Roxxie2]

Actually I have replaced windows by using thin stripwood and pieces of cardboard around the window frame UNDER the replacement window frames to make it thicker. You can't even tell that the windows are a bit deeper than the rest of the house on my Jefferson. I did the same around door frames that didn't fit exactly.

[havanaholly]

Double check your wood thickness; the 1:24 scale kits I've built were still cut from 1/8" plywood.

[permutations]

HavanaHolly - yes, it may be 1/8", not 1/16" (I have a 1:12) kit. But it's definitely much smaller than 1/2".

Roxxie - have you posted any pictures of your technique? I'd love to see what it looks like. I have trouble imaginging how something looks from a description.

I hope you are starting a gallery so we can see what you are doing.

I'm moving in slow motion - nothing much to see yet. I'm mainly preparing the pieces - sanding, putting on wood conditioner. I'll be staining and painting soon. I'm mostly thinking - I'm in no rush. I've been thinking a lot about the design of the dormers I want to add, how I want to do the stairs going up to the attic floor, how I might change/replace the windows, etc. I look at lots of pictures of real houses. I'll post a gallery when I have something to show.

[kat57]

Permutations,I'm probably at the same speed as you and have no gallery yet either,but that's okay. If you move at a pace that works for you,that's all that matters-just as long as you are enjoying it and learning what works for you to get the results you want! I did want to ask about wood conditioner,as I've never used it. Will that preserve the wood,or make the surface smoother,or...? Just curious-and learning new stuff every day. ;)

[permutations]

Permutations,I'm probably at the same speed as you and have no gallery yet either,but that's okay. If you move at a pace that works for you,that's all that matters-just as long as you are enjoying it and learning what works for you to get the results you want! I did want to ask about wood conditioner,as I've never used it. Will that preserve the wood,or make the surface smoother,or...? Just curious-and learning new stuff every day. ;)

Hi Kat. I'm not worried at all about my speed. I know it's not a race. I'm just going slow and having fun. I want to build my "dream dollhouse".

I did some research and found out that if you dilute sealer 50/50 with denatured alcohol, you have wood conditioner. Voila! It's a good idea to use wood conditioner (diluted sealer) before any staining if you're using soft wood. Otherwise, the stain will go on blotchy. It basically hardens up the wood a little so stain is absorbed more evenly. I also read that it "makes sanding easier" for some reason, but I don't notice a difference there.

[havanaholly]

I didn't know stain would penetrate sealer! Boy, you learn something new every day. Of course, I had a chemistry teacher who managed to instill a deadly fear of denatured alcohol in me at an early age... Actually I have used sanding sealer (after staining) and it helps stablilize the wood so sanding the edges doesn't dislodge tiny splinters, as sometimes occurss with old, dried-out plywood.

[kat57]

Thanx for the explanation,Permutations! I always painted the wood trim or papered any roombox projects I've done previously,but this time I plan to stain (Minwax) some interior trim on my current dollhouse project. I've never used denatured alcohol or sealer so I don't know a thing about them-definitely NOT the Chem major around here! If it has fumes I'll have to skip it,darn it! But I'm glad to hear about new methods. There's a lot of the same old thing when I do searches,so it's nice to hear when someone has a fresh approach! Thanx! ^_^

[permutations]

I didn't know stain would penetrate sealer! Boy, you learn something new every day. Of course, I had a chemistry teacher who managed to instill a deadly fear of denatured alcohol in me at an early age... Actually I have used sanding sealer (after staining) and it helps stablilize the wood so sanding the edges doesn't dislodge tiny splinters, as sometimes occurss with old, dried-out plywood.

Stain will penetrate sealer that's diluted 50/50 with denatured alcohol - it won't penetrate undiluted sealer. The main thing to know is, "wood conditioner" is just diluted sealer, so you don't have to buy a second product. You need the denatured alcohol, anyway, for clean-up.

I never took chemistry, so I'm blissfully unaware of what denatured alcohol can do to me.

I can see how sealer could help with plywood, after your explanation. I haven't had any problems with splintering while sanding, but I had problems with the wood splintering when I was taking it out of the boards - lots of problems with that. I think I must have gotten a bad kit because others told me that laser cut pieces usually fall out of the boards. Not mine! It took forever, but I got them all out, mostly in one piece. (I broke the first piece I removed - didn't realize the danger.) Everything is sorted into bags, by board, now.

[permutations]

Thanx for the explanation,Permutations! I always painted the wood trim or papered any roombox projects I've done previously,but this time I plan to stain (Minwax) some interior trim on my current dollhouse project. I've never used denatured alcohol or sealer so I don't know a thing about them-definitely NOT the Chem major around here! If it has fumes I'll have to skip it,darn it! But I'm glad to hear about new methods. There's a lot of the same old thing when I do searches,so it's nice to hear when someone has a fresh approach! Thanx! ^_^

There are some fumes with staining, but not that toxic or bad. I do it with the windows wide open.

I'm staining the stairs and bannisters, and painting the walls white (off-white). I don't want to do a lot of papering because I didn't do that in my own house. I want to make a house that looks like a real full-size house. I'm going to find (or make) some nice tiles for the bathroom, put molding at the edges of the ceiling and floors - the things I'd have in my actual full-sized house. And of course I need windows that open! What if the miniature people want to stain something and need to air out the fumes?

[havanaholly]

I use turps for oil-based clean up. Denatured alcohol is an industrial strenghth dessicant that can do a really nasty number on unprotected skin, and I'm a klutz. I'm glad to learn that about wood conditioner, though.

[havanaholly]

If I'm building a dollhouse for an older child to play with I make "working" windows. I made all my pub's windows working because occasionally a patron who imbibes a bit much needs the fresh air.

[permutations]

I use turps for oil-based clean up. Denatured alcohol is an industrial strenghth dessicant that can do a really nasty number on unprotected skin, and I'm a klutz. I'm glad to learn that about wood conditioner, though.

I used turpentine when I was in art school (and painting with oil paints). It never occurred to me to use it with the sealer because the can says to use denatured alcohol.

I wear latex gloves when I'm staining or sealing (and work gloves when I'm sanding or doing almost anything else). My skin is very sensitive so I protect it. It doesn't come in contact with much.

I bought a box of about 500 latex gloves (like doctors use) at a drug store for very little money.

[kat57]

Permutations,I think somewhat like you,I guess. Since I never had wallpaper in any home I've lived in,I don't think of it as standard issue in my future dollhouse builds. Conversely,I've only lived within walls covered with sheet rock or cheap veneer paneling,which I'd really rather not emulate!lol So,I'm still deciding on my interior walls. I do hope to have permanently open windows with screens in Cool Breeze,since 'she' wants to feel the air flow through her! ^_^ I still haven't got alot done,but like you I'm not letting myself turn it into a race or a chore. I stopped my previously started dh because of self-imposed pressure to 'just get it done'! I'm so glad you are having fun,yes,as that's what it's all about! (And forgive me,I high jacked the topic a bit there!)

[Roxxie2]

Permutations I don't have photos of the window technique. I never thought to take pictures of that. I do it two ways. One, I cut out a "frame" from cardboard whatever thickness I need to make the window fit. Or, I cut thin strips of balsa wood or skinny sticks even if the thickness is right and use them like shims under the frames. I have a lot of those wood coffee stirring sticks I can use also. It depends on the particular window shape and size. I use cardboard if its an arched window . Of course I have to trace a pattern of the window anyway if I am making the "frame". Does this make ANY sense??? I know pictures would be easier.

[permutations]

Kat - I stopped all artsy-craftsy stuff for decades after going to art school because it shifted what I'd always done for love into the realm of achievement. That ruined it for me. I'm coming back to arts and crafts work (and actively making/collecting miniatures) after many years of denying myself the pleasure, and nothing on earth could get me to turn this into an unpleasant chore - a "should" rather than a "want". I don't care if it takes me 10 years to build this dollhouse. The fun is in the doing. I don't even mind the sanding and other prep, which I know many people find tedious. I take a zen-like attitude, try to enjoy everything I do for its own sake. There is satisfaction even in sanding a piece of wood.

Roxxie - I think I know what you mean. I'm somewhat stymied by the fact that I haven't had one of those windows in my hands yet and seen how they fit in, but I'm getting an idea of it from your description. If you shim it that way, don't you get lumps around the window - that is, the area of wall around the window sticks out from the rest?

I posted about this in another thread, as well, and got this interesting suggestion from Jeffrey:

in cases like that, i glue on a layer of 1/4" thick foamcore to the outside walls to compensate the thickness for the working doors/windows.

I think I'll probably go with something like this, and/or fill out the walls with siding. I haven't decided how I want to handle the siding yet, but I'm leaving heavily towards brick, perhaps with stone corners. I like how that looks.

[havanaholly]

The shim is underneath the frame, so it doesn't show that much when it's painted to match; especially if you put window treaments on.

[permutations]

Oooohhh... I see now. You're taking up the space on the inside so it fits the size of the walls.

Does the door/window look like it's bulging out more than normal when you do that?

[havanaholly]

Not unless you want to risk getting your head stuck in the little room trying to check.

If you promise not to hit me, you could make your own windows that would fit and not need shimming...

[kat57]

Yep,I have absolute faith she could!

I like what you said earlier,Permutations,about not letting it become a 'should' but a 'want'! I enjoyed my minis for decades-small things I made or bought for me,and small vignettes and roomboxes I made for others,before I happened on the Forum and decided I wanted to build a dollhouse kit I had stuck away for over a decade-something just for me. But I got too ambitious too fast and it never would 'gel' the way I had imagined and I quickly got disgusted at even looking at it! I don't have much computer knowledge and cannot post pix,so that was another thing getting me down-everyone here wants to see what everyone is doing-naturally. But I didn't have anything I wanted to show yet,anyway. I don't have nearly this much trouble when making mini-somethings for others! I was determined to finish it before doing another kit-even though I was so unhappy. But after confiding in a fellow member,I finally decided to shelve that one for now and start this new build. I'm no faster,but it doesn't matter this time-like you,if it takes me a long time,so be it-I want to stay as excited about it as I am now! A-n-d I just hi-jacked your topic again!! Sorry!

[Roxxie2]

Thanks Holly! I couldn't think what to say about that but I put up curtains and with all the wallpaper and furnishings I never even see the tiny amount the window might stick out. I doubt if anyone would notice.

[permutations]

I'm a bit on the compulsive/perfectionistic side, so I'll have to think about whether I could tolerate windows and doors sticking out a bit too much. It might give me such an itch that I'd rather thicken the walls with foam board or siding.

[havanaholly]

As I have mentioned before to our friends with the "perfectionist" ailment, stop and take a nice, long, critical look at the 1:1 world around you. It's not perfect! Why not set your sights for realism. BTW, there's a shot of the Coventry Cottage's wall end on after the door was installed; betcha can't tell which side of the wall I shimmed. As I said, if the mere thought of that space is going to drive you buggy, invest in some 1/16" basswood and make your own windows that will fit nice and flush and will open and close as much as you want to play with them.