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Wallpaper copied on regular computer paper


Pat

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I've done it. One disadvantage is that you are limited to the size of paper that your printer will print (instead of the the bigger sheets you can get by buying wallpaper so you have to pay more attention to seams and matching.

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Thanks ladies. It gets so expensive buy the time you purchase and pay for shipping and then get it and the color isn't what you wanted. Would you use wood glue or mucilage.

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I have printed some on card stock. I agree with Holly, you want to seal it. I would suggest more than one coat. I have used regular white glue. I take an old credit card or hotel room key card and spread the glue to a nice light, even layer.

I have read where some folks spray tacky glue on theirs to mount it, but I want something a little stronger.

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..I sometimes print on lightly colored paper - you don't have to waste ink printing a background. I also use slightly textured paper from time to time. :)

Here I printed a kind of gold on cream colored & textured resume' paper-

gallery_4762_4144_98764.jpg

This one's black ink on pale yellow -

gallery_4762_5714_187629.jpg

You can take your design, on a thumb-drive or whatever, to Staples or some other printing place & have them print a more permanent copy from your file. They could probably blow it up for larger sheets - but I think that gets expense?? :)

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That black on yellow looks fabulous!

I have printed other items out and sprayed them as Holly suggested, but not wallpaper. I have found that I like using scrapbook paper. You can often get it on sale (5 for $1) and with the 12"x12" size I find that there isn't too much seaming.

I have used Yes paste for the paper based on a rec. from one of these posts and it works really well. It is really thick so I mix it with a tiny (really tiny) amount of water and stir it up well. then I use a credit card to apply it, very sparingly.

Good luck!

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Advantages = you get your wallpaper right away, it seems cheaper because your not paying anything for it up front and you might have access to a larger selection of prints.

Disadvantages = eats up lots of expensive printer ink, prints are not good quality, paper is of inferior quality as well, you will have to patch a lot because of paper size.

The only times I use printies is for quarter scale or smaller dollhouses..size.

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I've printed a lot of my own wallpaper using my ink jet printer. I also print floors (wood and tile) on the inkjet using photo paper. You can run various weights of papers safely through an inkjet. You will want to check your printer specs to find out it's limits. Also be sure if printing onto transparency or photo paper to get the one that is right for your printer. I have also run textured paper and heavier watercolor paper through my printer. I also run fabric transfer paper through (for rugs, etc).

Here's what I've learned from some real impressive screw ups. Let your prints dry overnight. If you are using an ink jet the ink needs time to dry. THEN use a spray fixative and spray very lightly from proper distance. Practice first on scrap, you want a fine even spray of the fixative. I use a product for watercolor paintings. THEN allow sufficient drying time again, usually overnight.

Regular 20lb copy paper really isn't sufficient. I have several weights, textures, and colors of paper that I use to get the effect I want. Expect to waste paper and ink cartridges when you first start experimenting. For my Tennyson (ahem, experiment) I went through a set of cartridges, but it was a pretty spectacular mess I made of it. :lol:

Once you get the hang of it though, you can create some really nice papers for walls, floors, ceilings, etc. For one inch scale you will need to plan orientation of the image (landscape or portrait) to make the best use of the pattern. Again on the Tennyson, I chose landscape to get the longest runs of the paper. This meant that my paper was only 8.5 inches wide, and the ceilings are about 9 inch, but I am installing a molding that will cover the unpapered strip along the ceiling so it's fine. I could also finish it with a trim, or trim paper. For half scale paper size hasn't been an issue.

For glue I use white glue, but sparingly. In fact, I found it easier to apply the glue to the wall in a smooth light coat (I use a sponge brush), rather than the paper, and then smooth the paper into position. I may try wallpaper paste, but I'm a white glue kinda girl.

The only thing that has been a real waste of money (for me) was the transparency film. I got it to do my own stained glass quicker and easier. Yes it works, but it looks anemic, not the rich saturated color that you see with real stained glass. So for that application I'm back to puff paint and gallery glass and slow tedious work.

Have fun with it. I like being able to create my own paper and I have more colors and variety to choose from by doing so. :)

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Ditto to what Debora said. I print my own wallpaper all the time. I, out of habit, use a heavier weight paper just for ordinary use. It works wonderfully for wallpaper. I have an ink jet printer which gives me crisp, clean print quality. My last four houses I used a combination of colored cardstock and my own printed paper. Mike's idea of using colored paper will save you a ton on ink and the combination of printing your own on colored paper will save you a small fortune on wallpapper, which can be, as you know, as much as $6.00 bucks a sheet.

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I'm sure this has been suggested before - using fabric or remnants. I think I'd iron the fabric then glue it to poster board. The fabric backed with pb should be easier to cut, fit & glue to the walls, yu'd think?? :) Lace might be interesting too - with the pb painted either the same or a different color acting as a background? < interesting ceiling effect too...

:hmm: Forgot this is about printing on paper...

don't mind me - just think'n out loud...

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If you have access to a color laser printer, the pages turn out better than an inkjet. You still need better quality paper. Regular 20lb paper can wrinkle and it's pretty thin so any imperfections beneath will show through, even if you primed. I had some really good paper and now I don't remember what it was. It was heavier, with a little sheen but not glossy by Hammermill.

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I have made a lot of wallpaper from printies and agree with all the above mentioned ways. I use white glue only because yes glue is too thick for printed wall paper even using a heavier bond paper, something about the way the paper is it just does not seem to do as well as when I use real wallpaper. (hope that makes sense) Another thing to take into account is the the more intricate the pattern the harder it will be to match seams which you will do more of due to the smaller size of the sheets.

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  • 3 months later...

Hi Everyone,

I have been pondering over printing transparencies for stained glass on my ink jet printer. I've been experimenting like crazy and still going at it. I don't like how washed out the transparencies are. What I've come up with that I like is to print onto 48 lb. vellum. You can buy it by the sheet at Kelly Paper. It dries fairly fast. Take a VersaMark CLEAR embossing pad and stamp your image. Next, pour on Ranger SUPER FINE DETAIL CLEAR embossing powder. You DO NOT want to use inks that have color or embossing powder that is aurora borealis as it distorts the detail. When you have heat embossed your printie, you should see the texture of a real stained glass window. You can emboss the backside as well. The 48lb vellum is practically card stock and will hold up. I have two more tests to complete: 1) sending file to Kinko's to print on laser printer using the vellum and transparency (let's hope it's darker); 2) I've also sent file to decal company for a window cling. My understanding is that the window cling can be heat embossed as well. You can see some photos of the ones I've done in my gallery. :beta: I'll keep you posted how the last two samples turn out.

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The stained glass coloring books from Dover Publications are printed on vellum. When I think the colors I've printed aren't vivid enough I go over them with colored markers. For Mildred I just printed off the windows I wanted to copy and laid clear plastic over the picture and traced the lead lines with a liner brush and black acrylic paint from the tube, then filled in the colors with either Gallery Glass or with water colors from the tube, thinned with a bit of gum arabic.

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  • 5 years later...

I've had some pretty bad experiences with home printed wallpaper:

http://www.emilymorganti.com/blog/?p=13332

http://www.emilymorganti.com/blog/?p=12997

My paper was printed on special paper for ink jet printing and sealed with matte sealer before installation. I think exposure to light, the environment (e.g. humidity), the printer/ink, and the glue all contributed to the problems. After these experiences I'll never do it again, too much hassle.

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Solar UV bleaches out lots of colors.  I had the pub's roof turn from construction paper black to a sort of tan and it wasn't anywhere where it got direct sunlight.  I have since painted the roof slate again.  I don't use printie wallpapers.

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I use prints from Office Depot - mostly size 17x11 - works for most size rooms. I had no problem with discoloration so far. I use bookbinder's glue to attach the paper b/c it guarantees that the paper will not react with it. I also use a matte sealer on it.  

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21 hours ago, fov said:

I've had some pretty bad experiences with home printed wallpaper:

http://www.emilymorganti.com/blog/?p=13332

http://www.emilymorganti.com/blog/?p=12997

My paper was printed on special paper for ink jet printing and sealed with matte sealer before installation. I think exposure to light, the environment (e.g. humidity), the printer/ink, and the glue all contributed to the problems. After these experiences I'll never do it again, too much hassle.

Oh Emily!  I would have been just SICK at having to redo all that wallpaper!  It's stories like yours that make me really afraid to even try using printed wallpaper.  I definately will not even bother trying to use ink jet printed paper.  I do have access to a color laser printer, but I haven't been able to find any information on how long those colors will last.  I'm not convinced that I won't have the same fading issues years down the road.

I suppose one answer would be to make cardstock panels for all the walls to make replacing the wallpaper easier in the future.  But those are a pain when you have to work around window trims and have lots of crown molding and baseboards planned for the rooms.

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41 minutes ago, Tigpuppy said:

...make cardstock panels for all the walls to make replacing the wallpaper easier in the future.  But those are a pain when you have to work around window trims and have lots of crown molding and baseboards planned for the rooms.

Start out with a paper template of each wall to use for patterns for future wallpaper cutting.

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2 hours ago, Tigpuppy said:

Oh Emily!  I would have been just SICK at having to redo all that wallpaper!  It's stories like yours that make me really afraid to even try using printed wallpaper.  I definately will not even bother trying to use ink jet printed paper.  I do have access to a color laser printer, but I haven't been able to find any information on how long those colors will last.  I'm not convinced that I won't have the same fading issues years down the road.

I was in denial when I saw mine starting to fade - the room was already put together with wiring behind the wallpaper and stairs that prevented good access to the rooms, and I just kept telling myself it would be okay and not get any worse, until I couldn't stand it anymore. It caused me years of disappointment that the house was "ruined" and has now taken a lot of work to fix -- but I did manage to re-wallpaper the rooms and they look great now! I wouldn't want to have to do it again, but the experience was a good reminder that almost anything you think is a lost cause in miniature can be fixed if you put your mind to it.

 

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