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Tips for cutting foam core board?


CourtofGypsies

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I went to Interior Design school and we had to build models using foam core: I can tell you to use a new blade and make several slow cuts - don't try to cut through all at once. Change blades often; even a little dull and it rips that delicate, foamy middle and leaves you with rough edges.

Has anyone used a heated knife with foam core? I would think that would help cut cleanly through the foam, too - but I've never tried it.

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As Brae said, what is the issue? For cutting almost anything I mark lightly in pencil, use a very new blade in the craft knife and a metal ruler to help keep everything straight as I go. Do the first run of the blade lightly just to get a bit of groove going then run along that a few more times to complete the cut.

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Yep, metal ruler, sharp knife, and slow multiple cuts. I sometimes do a few on one side, then flip over, but you need to make sure you are exactly lined up or you will have a funky edge.

They do make foam board cutter hot knives, I think just a tip to add to your soldering iron. I've not used it, but seems like someone here had one at one time.

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I had a heated knife and I used it to cut foamcore. It went through like butter and all my edges were smooth. I definiy recommend it. I got mine for less then $10 at Walmart in the craft department. It was really more of a kit for wood burning but the X-acto knife use is why I bought it. You still need a sharp blade so as not to tear the thick paper outsides but the heat really helps keep that foamy inside from tearing loose.

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Discovered tonight that going super slow still doesn't lead to cutting a straight line for me. Well, the curved lines were more trouble but really, this poor wall is going to have to be spackled all to heck and back so that nobody knows just how off the lines were cut. :D

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well, the one I was using was wooden with a little metal edge on it. Close enough, right?

Well, it works pretty good. I find though that most metal rules have a corked back, and that helps keep it a little more sturdy and from sliding around as much. And, the metal rulers also come in different lengths, I have one that is 15" and I love it! Very handy, especially for making long cuts or lines.

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I agree with Tracy on using a metal ruler with a cork back. The one I have is a little longer at 18" - it just should be longer than 12" in my opinion so you don't have to reposition it when cutting.

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Ah. My metal ruler is a carpenter square and 24 inches on the short side. It's all metal and really awkward to use and I really wish I'd bought a different one.

So I use the wooden one. I'll consider putting some cork backing on it, though.

So for the curved cuts like doorways, arches, etc... just slow and several goes at it to get it cut all the way through?

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A metal ruler, a new sharp blade and lots of replacements, and make 3 cuts -- one to break thru the paper on first side, 2nd to cut thru the foam, the third to slice thru the paper on the other side.

I have nice clean lines when I do it that way.

I used to try to slice through the whole thing, or even saw through it -- and only got ragged bad edges. Not anymore with sharp blades and multiple slices!

Good luck!

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Thanks for all the answers! :D

I think I know part of what I am doing wrong now. I need a 'nonslippery' ruler. DOH.

I am using a box knife with new blades. Should I use a different cutter? I saw some online, made by X-acto and some by Foamwerks, specifically for foam core but do I need that? They aren't very expensive.

My biggest problem is the ruler slipping and I'm getting an angle...erm, hard to explain...um, a miter? I guess I am slanting the cutting tool without realizing it even when I'm only cutting through one layer at a time. Those mini table saws are looking better and better to me! I keep looking at them and thinking ohhhh, I could make this and this and that!

Can't say what I'm making, hehe, it's a secret ;)

hugs

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I use a boxcutter with the retractable blade and blade storage in the handle. The cork-backed steel ruler makes it easier to hold the knife blade flat against the edge of the ruler to get a straight cut. I wouldn't use a saw on foamcore (there's a reason saw cutting is called "ripping:; use it on wood).

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Put a strip of masking tape on the back of the ruler to help keep it from slipping. And stand above the board so you're looking down on it as you cut. That will help reduce the mitering.

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My band saw works well with foamcore, but then I only use foamcore for mock-ups-- nothing "real" in my houses. I couldn't live without it for mock-ups. All the arched walls, interior and exterior, for La Malcontenta, were first done with foamcore, and then the foamcore was used as a template.

B)

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A metal ruler, a new sharp blade and lots of replacements, and make 3 cuts -- one to break thru the paper on first side, 2nd to cut thru the foam, the third to slice thru the paper on the other side. I have nice clean lines when I do it that way. I used to try to slice through the whole thing, or even saw through it -- and only got ragged bad edges. Not anymore with sharp blades and multiple slices! Good luck!

Hi Elsbeth / Jenn :wave: Haven't heard from you for awhile. Have I just missed your posts or have you been gone?

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