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Ordering Wallpaper for my Garfield


Mary11
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I need to know if there are hallways in addition to the ten rooms of the house. Or are the halls parts of rooms. If there are hallways how much wallpaper would they take? I can't tell by the pictures that are on the instructions. I'm getting excited now that my foundation is done and I can move along to actual building :)

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Mary, really, you need to do a dry fit before you start ordering wallpaper. In the dry fit, you'll find discover which areas will be difficult-to-impossible to decorate after the walls are glued in place. It will also help you decide your color scheme for each room as you can see how each room interacts with the rooms around it.

Also, you may want to consider using scrapbooking paper instead of the more expensive dollhouse wallpaper.

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So, I put the whole house together dryfit first with the masking tape? Then do I take it apat to glue and paint and paper?
Yes, and I treat thae dry fit as a very important part of the prep work along with sanding, trimming tabs & slots, staining, priming...
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Mary, I know it sounds daunting to build it and take it back apart, but believe me it's worth it. Sometimes I get lazy and skip a couple steps in the dry-fit, or don't complete it all the way to the end, and I always regret it! (You'd think I'd learn!)

No, not at all. I'd rather do it like that than glue as I go and find that things don't go together and it gets ruined. It makes perfect sense and now I'm way more comfortable building it than before. I'm sorry for all the questions. One last one, do I prime before or after dry fitting? Thank you everyone for all your help in getting this started.

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Never apologize for asking questions, answering them is how information gets passed along, and IMO the main purpose of this forum. I wait to prime or stain until after the dry fit, but that's because the dry fit is often when the house gets apecific in telling me what all it wants. Also, I don't prime where I'm going to glue, and I can better tell where those places are when it's dry fitted together.

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No, not at all. I'd rather do it like that than glue as I go and find that things don't go together and it gets ruined. It makes perfect sense and now I'm way more comfortable building it than before. I'm sorry for all the questions. One last one, do I prime before or after dry fitting? Thank you everyone for all your help in getting this started.

Mary, no apologies necessary ... we love to help!

I'm working on a Pierce bash and have had that puppy in and out of dry fit upmteen times to make adjustments. It takes longer, but when I'm ready to glue, I know each piece will go just exactly where it should. And that's a very good feeling!

You can prime before or after dry fitting. If you can manage not to prime the tabs, it will help when you're fitting. Remember that you don't want to prime any surfaces that will be stained. You can paint or paper over stain, but you can't stain over paint or paper!

Be sure to mark each piece with what it is, its number, which side faces in or out, an arrow pointing up, etc. ... any clues that will help you get it back in the right place. Use pencil on the wood or write on a piece of masking tape.

As you're taking it apart, you can also mark where a particular wall color or wallpaper will go. Unless you have a crew of 6-inch-tall workers helping you, you may want to paint and/or wallpaper the hard-to-reach pieces before gluing it back together.

Have fun with it, and remember, slow and easy does the job. You don't have a deadline. :D

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Mary, my Garfield is taking forever to finish because it was glue together first. It may seem like a lot of work to dry fit but....less work in the long run. Trust ME!!!! Good luck. :wave:

Thank you, that's what I figure. I'm so much more comfortable with dry fit first. I was so nervous thinking about gluing it together as I go.

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