Has Anyone Built The Staircase Differently Than Directions?

[Merry]

I basically said everything in my title.

I was wondering if anyone has built the staircases outside of the house, and then inserted them. Dare I do it, or would it ruin my life forever and ever?

[uppitycats]

Sorry..I don't know what house you're building...but my Garfield staircase was built outside the house, then inserted (and modified as I removed a wall from my Garfield...well..didn't put it in, in the first place..so altered the bannister. When I rehabbed my Tennyson, I tore out the staircase, took it apart, rebuilt it, then inserted it back into the house. In my other two houses, both rehabs, the staircases were firmly in place, so for the Brimble I manufactured a door and entrance on the side so I could reach the staircase, but in my Washington I had to rehab it in place.

Don't know if that answers your question, though..

[Muriel]

Definitely dare! If you're very worried about it, make a paper template of the pieces and then you can cut it out of wood if you need. But definitely give it a go if you want! Haven't built a RGT house, but I've definitely rebuilt tab and slot stairs outside of the house. and made them not tab and slot Depending on the type of stairs might take patience waiting for glue to dry at each step.

[Merry]

Sorry..I don't know what house you're building...but my Garfield staircase was built outside the house, then inserted (and modified as I removed a wall from my Garfield...well..didn't put it in, in the first place..so altered the bannister. When I rehabbed my Tennyson, I tore out the staircase, took it apart, rebuilt it, then inserted it back into the house. In my other two houses, both rehabs, the staircases were firmly in place, so for the Brimble I manufactured a door and entrance on the side so I could reach the staircase, but in my Washington I had to rehab it in place.

Don't know if that answers your question, though..

I'm building the RGT Woodstock. The wall is pretty well in there. Okay, it won't budge at all.

[Merry]

Definitely dare! If you're very worried about it, make a paper template of the pieces and then you can cut it out of wood if you need. But definitely give it a go if you want! Haven't built a RGT house, but I've definitely rebuilt tab and slot stairs outside of the house. and made them not tab and slot Depending on the type of stairs might take patience waiting for glue to dry at each step.

That's a great idea, Muriel! I'll see how it goes. Thank you!

[Sherry]

Definitely! They're ever so much easier to do that way! Get the sections of staircase glued together, and try it to make sure it fits. Then just lay it aside until your wallpaper or painting is done. Then stick it in there with some mini wax and cut the trim to fit around it, and take it out again to put your rails on. If you use the rails that sit on top of each tread, the stairs will fit perfectly in the holes. If you do like I do and put railings of some kind on the outside edge of the stairs, measure and trim the hole to allow for the extra width. Get everything done and stick it back in there.

Before you glue it in, paint the inner edges of the hole to match your ceiling and they won't be noticeable. When all that is done, glue it in, if you want to...I just leave them stuck up with mini wax, and I guess you could use tiny spots of hot glue. That way they are easy to remove if you need to get behind them for some reason, or want to redecorate. I have built 3 RGT houses this way, they are in my albums if you'd like to look and see the different styles of railings I've used.

[Just One More]

I always finish the stairs first and don't glue them in in the RGT houses. The baseboards hold in the bottom I've found. They can be lifted out anytime to change wallpaper etc. The Glencroft and Westville stairs really need to be glued but my Jeffersons and Willows are not. Even the Pierce I'm working on will have the stairs temporarily placed with small bits of poster tack at floor level.

[havanaholly]

I'm not sure I could assemble stairs in situ. Once I've determined with the stringers (or dry-fit assembly for stairs like Maggie's) that they'll fit I build them outside the house and then attach them into place.

[Merry]

Definitely! They're ever so much easier to do that way! Get the sections of staircase glued together, and try it to make sure it fits. Then just lay it aside until your wallpaper or painting is done. Then stick it in there with some mini wax and cut the trim to fit around it, and take it out again to put your rails on. If you use the rails that sit on top of each tread, the stairs will fit perfectly in the holes. If you do like I do and put railings of some kind on the outside edge of the stairs, measure and trim the hole to allow for the extra width. Get everything done and stick it back in there.

Before you glue it in, paint the inner edges of the hole to match your ceiling and they won't be noticeable. When all that is done, glue it in, if you want to...I just leave them stuck up with mini wax, and I guess you could use tiny spots of hot glue. That way they are easy to remove if you need to get behind them for some reason, or want to redecorate. I have built 3 RGT houses this way, they are in my albums if you'd like to look and see the different styles of railings I've used.

Thank you, Sherry! I am using different railings than came with the kit, and duh, I was trying to make them fit the hole rather than making the hole larger. Your way is much easier.

I always finish the stairs first and don't glue them in in the RGT houses. The baseboards hold in the bottom I've found. They can be lifted out anytime to change wallpaper etc. The Glencroft and Westville stairs really need to be glued but my Jeffersons and Willows are not. Even the Pierce I'm working on will have the stairs temporarily placed with small bits of poster tack at floor level.

Thank you so much. I'll check out your and Sherry's albums for sure.

[Tinyroomartist]

Hi! Rehabbing a 1970's Washington. Removed both staircases, which had been built with enclosed backs (not open.) Removed the back from one. Both had rails added which were in sad shape. Put one back without a rail and not sure if I will add the rail back. Reversed it so the stairs are facing the back of the house, not the bay window side.

Has anyone else done this?

Suggestions for ways to brace the floor so the stairs will be easily removable in the future as well as reversible if I change my mind? I plan to install a removable floor over the stairwell opening so, if I do want to put the stairs back in their original configuration, I would be able to. The floor is, of course, not stable as the house was designed to have the stairs brace it into place.

Would this bracing prevent one from ever reinstalling the stairs going from the upstairs to the attic? I plan to temporarily install a faux attic pull down and hope to replace it later on with a set of working pull down attic stairs wherever this makes sense depending upon the final layout of the hallway / bathroom.

It is an interesting house. The wood stove would have vented from the chimney, so that belongs on the left side. The upstairs left room would have a fireplace, too. And if the bathroom is on the right, then the kitchen would be on the right, too so plumbing could run straight down. So where is the best stair placement? Also, does a bay window belong in a kitchen? I know that in doll houses we do not always see all the rooms and I am mulling over which rooms to show and which to imagine - it is really fun. Hard to decide and it determines what I do with the flooring, which is why it matters now. Where does the bathroom tile go? Where do I make sure to bring the wood floors back? I truly admire all of you who are doing such beautiful, integrated work. There is a lot more to this than many people realize! Your artistry is amazing.

[KathieB]

5 minutes ago, Tinyroomartist said:

So where is the best stair placement?

My Washington 2.0 does not have stairs. They are in the part of the house that can't be seen. I didn't see a need to brace the floor.

[Tinyroomartist]

Just now, KathieB said:

My Washington 2.0 does not have stairs. They are in the part of the house that can't be seen. I didn't see a need to brace the floor.

Hi! Interesting. The house I have (was given to me - I did not build it) was not glued or the glue gave out in many places. It is not the 2.0 - it is an original Washington. I have another vintage house (unidentified) and it seems to work the same way. No tab connection where the staircase is. The staircase seems to act as a brace for the floor when it is installed. The floor just sort of hangs there, attached by a tab at the other end of the house. I thought of installing crown molding on the first floor as sort of a hidden brace and using wood glue to ensure a good hold. How is your second floor supported in the middle of the house where the stairs would have been? And thank you for answering! I truly appreciate it. Who else cares about these things? Lol. We do.

[Tinyroomartist]

7 minutes ago, KathieB said:

My Washington 2.0 does not have stairs. They are in the part of the house that can't be seen. I didn't see a need to brace the floor.

I just took a look at your house. So fascinating. The 2.0 looks as if the wood is thicker than the original! I wonder if the design and construction are slightly different, too. Are you able to see how thin the wood is on the house I am working with? Another community member suggested sealing the edges of the very dry wood with glue and that worked very well to give the house additional strength (and also helped with splinters!) The house feels much sturdier now. I just kept spreading a thin layer of craft glue on the unfinished edges each night and it absorbed into the house. Now it does not feel as if it will fall apart each time I handle it. So much better!

[KathieB]

Your house and the 2.0 are not all that different. What looks like thicker wood is actually channel molding that I glued over the raw edges of the walls and floors/ceilings.  I think this gives a more finished look to the house. If you look at the ground floor, you can see the actually floor on the porch and the channel on the house proper.

I notice that on mine the vertical channel is in one piece. If you were to do this, you might make the horizontal run in one and split the vertical to give the floor more support.

Edited March 18, 2021 by KathieB