Jump to content

Help! Dry Wood!


ABQ Minis
 Share

Recommended Posts

Please Help!

I bought an older Tennyson and the wood is very dry. I am having a lot of trouble getting the parts to seperate without splintering! Is there a remedy? Instant fix? Anything? This has happened before on an orchid and I ended up just saving some parts and tossing the rest it was so bad! That's the problem with buying old kits! Some have been stored so long in dry climates I guess! Or the other way.. wet ones and you get warped parts!!! Oh well... I guess those are the chances we take when we try to save a few dollars!

Anyway, if anyone has a tip for dry wood I could really use it today!!! Many thanks!!

Heather

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Heather! Give the sheets of wood a coat of stain (both sides so it doesn't warp) and that will moisturize the wood and make it easier to punch out the pieces. If you're going to be staining parts anyway it puts you one step ahead, but you can also paint or prime over it once you get the pieces out.

Deb

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When my real life furniture shows signs of drying in winter, I use a wax/oil product called Bamboo Renew. Its all natural, with food grade mineral oil and used on bamboo cutting boards and utensils. I don't know how dh wood would respond to it, or if it would cause problems, but its the first thing that popped into my head. Anyone know??

Wendy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any sealer or stain you can paint over is water based and will not feed to wood.

When I have dry ply I brush a coat of tongue oil on it (both sides) and wipe off excess. It will not take paint and you will need to wipe with Denatured alcohol in the areas that need gluing. Use this outside or in a well venter area, if it is cold or raining I do it under the stove vent turned on high. It will make the pieces easier to remove. After light sanding I also run a bit of wood glue around the edges of each piece to help keep the layers of ply together, this prevents them curling up after they are installed. I save big scraps of kits for this but if you don't is worth the cost to cut new stair treads and elaborate trim from fresher ply. It is a lot of extra work to do all this but worth it if you love the house.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a product called Liquid Gold. It is an arasol that is sold beside the furniture polish, lemon oil and such. They carry it at Wal Mart. I use it on teak furniture that isn't finished. It absorbs into the wood and nourishes it. I think that this would work on the dollhouse wood as well. You would have to let it soak in and dry for a couple of days. If it works on teak, it should work on plywood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have gotten some great advice already.

Make sure you have a shiny new blade in your X-acto knife and score score score until you seperate. If you do get splintering anyway, you can sand most of the mistakes. Save the sawdust. I got advice from a wise woman on here who told me you can use the sawdust to mix with glue and stain to fill in cracks in your hardwood flooring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...