Anna G Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 The window sashes are made up of 2 parts with the window 'glass' sandwiched between. This makes the sashes twice as thick as the walls they are to go into. Consequently they stick out past the wall on the inside, if you follow the installation instructions. So when the inside window trim is applied it does not sit flat against the wall, but leaves a gap all the way around. How annoying is that! It seems to me that either the walls should have been thicker plywood, or the sash pieces be half-thickness plywood. How have other solved this problem? I guess more filler - again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
More Minis Dollhouses Posted June 30, 2008 Share Posted June 30, 2008 Anna, I dont remember running into that problem with the two Beacon Hills I built. That is so weird. Did you clamp the sashes very tightly together when you sandwished them? What your saying makes sense because the walls are only 1/8" thick and the sandwished sashes are thicker so I dont know why I didnt have a problem with that. Im going to have to go back to my contructions builds to see because now Im totally curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbytsdy Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 The window sashes are made up of 2 parts with the window 'glass' sandwiched between. This makes the sashes twice as thick as the walls they are to go into. Consequently they stick out past the wall on the inside, if you follow the installation instructions. So when the inside window trim is applied it does not sit flat against the wall, but leaves a gap all the way around. How annoying is that! It seems to me that either the walls should have been thicker plywood, or the sash pieces be half-thickness plywood. How have other solved this problem? I guess more filler - again. I noticed that right off... I pushed the interior forward so that the exterior trim would take most of the gap-page, and spackled the exterior pretty well for the bay units. I used tacky glue so that added some extra depth to the exterior trim placement as well. Another thing that helped on the single-window units was the fact that I had sided ahead of time, so the extra thickness from the siding took up some of the slack... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anna G Posted July 1, 2008 Author Share Posted July 1, 2008 I thought about it after the sashes were in that siding first would take up the slack. But since this is my first house and I was following the instructions in strict order, as recommended, I took it all on trust. I can pack out the interior trim with another thickness of scape plywood but I was very curious about the situation. It's like the wall pieces should have been thicker. I clamped the sashes together very tightly but the sash parts are exactly the same thicknes as the walls so two layers are obviously going to be twice as thick (not even counting the 'glass'). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wenlaine Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Wow, I'm totally baffled. When I built mine, I don't remember having any problems like that. I did my siding after the windows were all installed as well. They fit perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfie Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Curtains/drapes/shade hide a lot of inconsistencies! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pin1056 Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 here here Gina....mine are hiding lots of window gaps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarah91 Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Yeah I ran into that problem with mine too. I just tried to make it stick out evenly on both sides so that it didn't look ridiculous on any side. You can barely see it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texasbuilder Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 I am working on a Dura-Craft Bayberry Cottage and just ran into the same problem; the window framing sticks into the room on the inside. The answer is the trim molding on the inside goes adjacent to the part that sticks through, not over it. Putting it adjacent makes it all flat and gives a nice finished look. Jerry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thystle Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 .....The answer is the trim molding on the inside goes adjacent to the part that sticks through, not over it. Putting it adjacent makes it all flat and gives a nice finished look. Jerry This is very helpful, I am making a note of this tip. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbytsdy Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I am working on a Dura-Craft Bayberry Cottage and just ran into the same problem; the window framing sticks into the room on the inside. The answer is the trim molding on the inside goes adjacent to the part that sticks through, not over it. Putting it adjacent makes it all flat and gives a nice finished look. Jerry Not in the case of the Beacon Hill; one would have to sand down the trim pretty severely (and beyond a natural scope) in order to fit the sash piece flush: I think it comes down to a combination of glue and any siding that may be in place, coupled with the fact that there is only 1/16" on either side to deal with... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just One More Posted July 2, 2008 Share Posted July 2, 2008 I'm nowhere near where the windows go in but are the Beacon Hill windows any different than any other Greenleaf house? I only have the basic shell together and thought the stairs would be the worst. Inside frame, outside frame with plastic in the middle is all I've ever experienced. Hope the windows won't be a problem when I get to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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