UVsaturated Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I am trying to figure out the order of procedures for gluing the bay window roof in place on the Orchid. According to the instructions, you apply a piece of masking tape across the three roof pieces and allow them to "fit" the shape, and then you glue it all. The instructions though are a bit unclear on how you hold all this together, or if you leave the tape attached and glue the outside. Here is what the instructions say: 5) Position the roof unit over the bay window unit with “front edge” outward. Allow the roof to “drape” itself over the unit with back edges resting evenly against right side wall and the under side resting against top of bay unit. Remove, – (G) and set back in place. The clincher is the last sentence. Remove (I am guessing the entire roof), then glue then set back in place. When you remove the roof, how do you retain the shape it is supposed to fit, then why doesn't it mention gluing the whole thing back down to the bay window top?? Has anyone who has built the Orchid clarify this for me so I can rewrite the text better for the instructions. It would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I just reviewed my Team building blog for the Orchid to see how I dealt with the roof, and I confess I must have ignored the instructions. Basically I first dry-fit the main roof pieces onto the house and then dry-fit the gable & dormers with their rood sections and set them in their places on the roof front with tape. Then I went back and glued the gable & dormer assemblies together, double-checked their fit on the main roof front and set them aside whilst I glued the main roof pieces into place. Then I went back and glued the dormers & gable into place on the roof front. All of this was accompanied by few, if any, *magic* words, as the fit on this kit was just perfect! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterfieldzoo Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 I never have done the 'tape it together' thing. I just glue it on. Never had a problem. Maybe you are overthinking it. Try using the instructions as a guideline and not literal. Why do you want to rewrite the text? Once you do it, you won't need the instructions again even if you build another. It is such a simple house to build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UVsaturated Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 I never have done the 'tape it together' thing. I just glue it on. Never had a problem. Maybe you are overthinking it. Try using the instructions as a guideline and not literal. Why do you want to rewrite the text? Once you do it, you won't need the instructions again even if you build another. It is such a simple house to build. You don't understand. I am actually working on the new instruction sets for Greenleaf and I am not actually building the kits. I am working on illustrating the instructions and I read the text to see if it makes good easy sense towards a reference to a visual. The text, in this case, reads poorly and I need to get a grasp on how someone who has actually glued on the bay window roof to tell me how they did it and how they interpreted that part of the instructions. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 The clincher is the last sentence. Remove (I am guessing the entire roof), then glue then set back in place. When you remove the roof, how do you retain the shape it is supposed to fit, then why doesn't it mention gluing the whole thing back down to the bay window top?? Has anyone who has built the Orchid clarify this for me so I can rewrite the text better for the instructions. It would be much appreciated. Ben, I did just what the instructions said for both of the Orchids I built. The tape (on the outside of the roof) acts as a hinge, so you can see if all of the pieces fit snugly against both the house wall and the top of the bay window. If the bay wasn't installed properly, this is the time to figure out how to fix the problem, that is, before the roof is glued. Then, leaving the tape in place, I put glue on the top of the window frame and on the house wall edges of the roof bits and put it back into place. You don't need to worry about keeping it in shape; gravity and the tape work pretty well together. When the glue dries, the tape comes off. I don't believe I put glue on the seams where the roof bits touch one another, although you could. I think gluing the whole thing back down to the bay window top is fairly obvious, but if you're rewriting the instructions, you may want to spell it out. By the way, are you doing this without hands-on experience with the kits? I'd highly recommend at least dry fitting a kit as you rewrite or you're likely to 1) perpetuate some of the same problems in the revised instructions and/or 2) miss spots where warnings ought to go. By 2), I'm talking about warnings NOT to glue something before something else is glued or to paint or wallpaper some area before gluing in stairs, etc ... the kind of thing that would be pretty obvious when you try to get your hands into awkward nooks and crannies. Maybe not so much on the Orchid (although decorating the side wall and window by the stairs can be a challenge), but on others houses, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UVsaturated Posted February 8, 2008 Author Share Posted February 8, 2008 Thanks Kathie, I think you have answered my question and I see where the problem lies. Let me address it here: Ben, I did just what the instructions said for both of the Orchids I built. The tape (on the outside of the roof) acts as a hinge, so you can see if all of the pieces fit snugly against both the house wall and the top of the bay window. If the bay wasn't installed properly, this is the time to figure out how to fix the problem, that is, before the roof is glued. Then, leaving the tape in place, I put glue on the top of the window frame and on the house wall edges of the roof bits and put it back into place. You don't need to worry about keeping it in shape; gravity and the tape work pretty well together. When the glue dries, the tape comes off. I don't believe I put glue on the seams where the roof bits touch one another, although you could. I think gluing the whole thing back down to the bay window top is fairly obvious, but if you're rewriting the instructions, you may want to spell it out. The problem is, the preceding text in the instructions says to apply the tape on the back side of the roof pieces. This would be the side you do not see. Given this, it would be hard to fit the pieces then remove the tape if it is inside the roof. I guess that is what I could not figure out, why it said that. I will check the sheets again and make sure the "face up" surface is indeed the correct side to place the tape and make a few changes. Your procedure sounds like what was intended, but I am a stickler for doing things to a "T". Thanks. By the way, are you doing this without hands-on experience with the kits? I'd highly recommend at least dry fitting a kit as you rewrite or you're likely to 1) perpetuate some of the same problems in the revised instructions and/or 2) miss spots where warnings ought to go. The problem is I do not have the luxury of time to dry fit all the Greenleaf and Corona Concept kits. That would take a considerable amount of time and space. Ideally, that would be best as it would reveal anything that causes problems. I do assemble them on the computer as a 3 dimensional model, so I can visualize the way all the pieces fit together. It takes up a lot less space, and uses no masking tape! By 2), I'm talking about warnings NOT to glue something before something else is glued or to paint or wallpaper some area before gluing in stairs, etc ... the kind of thing that would be pretty obvious when you try to get your hands into awkward nooks and crannies. Maybe not so much on the Orchid (although decorating the side wall and window by the stairs can be a challenge), but on others houses, too. I see what you are saying. There is a disclaimer in the instructions at the beginning and in the warm up to not assemble the kits out of sequence, but I also believe that the beauty of mini's is the ability for someone to take some liberties of bending the rules here and there to achieve a certain look or result. The instructions, therefore, are just the most direct and easiest way to assemble the house, but not by any means the only way to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chesterfieldzoo Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 Oh that's cool. I was wondering why the directions were so important to you. Now I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathieB Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 The problem is, the preceding text in the instructions says to apply the tape on the back side of the roof pieces. This would be the side you do not see. Given this, it would be hard to fit the pieces then remove the tape if it is inside the roof. I guess that is what I could not figure out, why it said that. I will check the sheets again and make sure the "face up" surface is indeed the correct side to place the tape and make a few changes. Your procedure sounds like what was intended, but I am a stickler for doing things to a "T". Ben, my bad. I mistyped. The tape does need to go on the underside of the roofing pieces in order to hinge properly. There really isn't a problem removing the tape later ... just be sure it doesn't extend beyond the edges of the pieces or it will be glued into place. You can just reach inside and pull the tape off. If you had the pieces in your hand, it would have been fairly obvious. Call me old-fashioned, but I do think a real world assembly test is critical before the revised instructions go into mass production. Look at the example above. I made a mistake, you and your virtual assembly program bought it, and countless dollhouse builders would curse you for years to come if I hadn't caught it. Think about it. Going back to my corner and being quiet now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanaholly Posted March 8, 2008 Share Posted March 8, 2008 Ben, I agree with Kathie that you ought to at least dry-fit a couple of the kits. The Orchid is one that goes together in dry-fit in about an hour; how long did it take you to twiddle that first house on your computer? IMO it'll help your perspective with rewriting the instructions. That said, I'm one who has yet to build a kit in the order of the instructions. I assemble & install the windows & doors LAST. When I open the kit (in order) I read over the instructions, I remove the acetate window inserts and set them aside between sheets of paper (the Warm-Up sheets, usually), I pull out the schematics sheet(s) and set it with the instructions and I put all the plywood sheets into numerical order, studying the schematics sheet along the way. Then I read over the instructions again, again checking with the schematics sheet. When I'm satisfied I have everything I put it away until I have everything gathered to begin, and when I begin I give the instructions one last read and begin with whatever section starts with the foundation, and then with Sheet #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justmesue Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 The tape hinges on the bay roofs of my BH are on the underside, and still there, glued inside! Then I filled the gaps with wood filler, and no-one will ever know, 'till now anyway lol. I do agree, some instructions are a little tough to follow if you're a beginner. I think the Washington 2.0 were the worst, 'cause it never said when to glue. Having built a couple houses, I really don't do things in order, no more. I assemble body first, then paint, then always windows last. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickeyMiniFan Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 I have to agree with Holly & Kathie and cite my experience as an engineer in the "real world." I would much prefer directions with actual photos of construction than diagrams done on CAD programs. Writing directions any other way is like the software programmer who writes the manual. Notice that Microsoft no longer includes manuals with their software because no one can understand their books. Dryfitting the house means that you are only assembling it temporarily and you can still tear it down & repack it flat in the box. Otherwise, it is a case of "the blind leading the blind" I applaud the efforts to clarify the directions, and would be willing to provide comments on the directions for the Orchid if requested. However, DO NOT underestimate the value of hands-on experience. When I interned at General Motors Engine Division, they required all employees to take an orientation class where we disassembled & reassembled an engine. Everyone - including the secretaries who needed to have an understanding of the subject matter to effectively type, & assist in their departments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lizard Posted March 28, 2008 Share Posted March 28, 2008 Hi Ben, have you played with the fairfield kit instructions yet? I have not built it, but I know, cause everyone here tells you on their blogs/building of the fairfield to wallpaper a certain wall as it can not be completed once the house is build. Not that it can be easily seen, but that is beside the point. there is another one that you cannot put the wallpaper in upstairs once built without help. I'm surpirsed that Dean didnot ask here for help, or maybe he will get the instructions you write used as instructions for a dry fit by someone...... I hate getting instuctions that donot work, bad engouh on a real house, with a builder of 40 years to help, let alone a dollhouse that comes from the other side of the world. I too will go back to my corner now. P.S. folvet has built the fairfield and has instructions re wallpaper on her blog/website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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