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Found 13 results

  1. Does anyone have a canopy bed tutorial? I used to have a book by Judee Williamson but I can’t find it anywhere! I’d really appreciate it if somebody could help me out.
  2. Does anyone have a tutorial for a canopy bed? I used to have a book by Judee Williamson but I can't find it anywhere!
  3. From the album: Back at it!

    Via tutorial from http://1inchminisbykris.blogspot.com/
  4. From the album: Back at it!

    From http://1inchminisbykris.blogspot.com/ Cut out the pieces with the Cricut I got for Christmas! So much easier!
  5. This tutorial deals with converting a House of Miniatures drawer using thinner basswood for the front, sides, and bottom, and dovetailing all four corners, to make a "false front" drawer. A false front drawer is one that has the drawer built as a open box with all four sides and then the front piece is installed. This was done for two reasons: 1. Some woods, especially burls, are not strong on their own and need the reinforcement 2. Veneers allow the use of very thin layers of expensive and highly figured woords that are too scarce and expensive to make a solid drawer from Please refer to my tutorial "Dovetails for Drawers" for details and notes on creating the dovetails I am demonstrating using the House of Miniatures Three Drawer Chest (Kit 40011) drawer using the kit parts as the drawer front and as measuring patterns so you can convert any kit drawer for any House of Miniatures using these instructions In the first part we are going to cut out the new parts using 1/16" basswood for the drawer sides and back and 1/32" basswood for the drawer bottom Step 1: Lay out and measure the kit parts. Here you can see the front, bottom, sides, and back. The kit uses a non prototypical construction method where the bottom and back are the full width of the drawer and the sides rest on top of the bottom and do not extend all the way to the back. This is something else we are going to correct Photo 1 shows the parts and their sizes Photo's 2 & 3 shows how the sides, back, and bottom are assembled (they are just sort of propped up here) Step 2: Cut out the new sides from 1/16" stock. The sides are the full height of the old sides (9/16) plus the thickness of the bottom (1/8 or 2/16) or 9/16 + 2/16 = 11/16 high The length is the full depth of the bottom (1 21/32) plus 1/8 (4/32) for the front plate, 1/32 for the front dovetail overhang, and 1/32 for the rear dovetail overhang or 1 21/32 + 4/32 + 1/32 + 1/32 = 1 27/32 long So the new sides are 1 27/32 x 11/16 x 1/16 Step 3: Cut out the new front and back from 1/16" stock. The back is the full height of the old sides (9/16) plus the thickness of the bottom (1/8 or 2/16) or 9/16 + 2/16 = 11/16 high The length is 3 3/8 (3 6/16) plus 1/32 per side overhang (1/16 total ) or 3 6/16 + 1/16 = 3 7/16 long So the new back is 3 7/16 x 11/16 x 1/16 Step 4: The parts are marked for the dovetails (the four matching jions are lightly numbered 1 to 4 in pencil) Step 4: Cut out the dovetails. As these are a little wider than 1/16" I found that an easy way to clean them up and "cut" the dovetails for the front plate is to tightly wrap sandpaper around the edge of a scrap of 1/16" basswood Step 5: Glue the parts together. I sand off the pencil marks just prior to gluing each side join. Sand off the projecting parts of the dovetails (see my dovetail tutorial) Step 6: Cut the bottom from 1/32 sheet and glue in. I found the easiest way is to put the completed drawer on the sheet and run a pencil around the inside to mark the size to cut. I also use two scraps of 1/32 sheet to space the drawer bottom slightly up from the base Step 7: Cut the false front from 1/42 veneer and sand flat. I found the easiest way is to put the completed drawer on the sheet and run a pencil around the front plate to mark the size to cut Step 8: Glue the false front to the front of the drawer. I use wax paper and a scrap of 1/16 basswood as a backing for the clamps. Notice how the veneer slightly overhangs the drawer edge on all four sides Step 9: I cut the plate slightly oversive and sand to fit after gluing And here it is mocked up in the cabinet. I will cover the polyurethane finish and installing drawer pulls in another tutorial
  6. These are based on 1/16" basswood adjust as needed for other wood. These are for making simple dovetails for drawers to replace the out of scale drawers found in House of Miniatures and other kits. Step 1: Cut drawer pieces 3/16" larger than needed (3/32" overhang at each end) Step 2: Draw a line 3/32" in from each end Step 3: Draw lines across both pieces 1/16" apart Step 4: I color every other one on each piece so I know which ones to cut out Step 5: Cot out the colored pieces (I used an #11 bladed knife) and clean it up with folded sandpaper Step 6: Glue the pieces together you can see how each dovetail extends past the end by 1/32" Step 7: Let dry then clean up the outside joint with sandpaper
  7. This tutorial deals with making dovetails for the front, sides, and back of House of Miniatures drawer kits using thinner basswood than provided in the kits. Before anyone gets picky I know these are technically box joints and not dovetails but at this scale I think they are good enough (a box joint is a form of square dovetail with more glue area than a butt joint but without the mechanical joining aspects of a true dovetail) I will be posting a full tutorial on how to convert a House of Miniatures Three Drawer Chest (Kit 40011) drawer using the kit parts as the drawer front and as measuring patterns in the near future so you can convert any kit drawer In the first part we are going to dovetail the sides and back These are based on 1/16" basswood adjust as needed for other wood. These are for making simple dovetails for drawers to replace the out of scale drawers found in House of Miniatures and other kits. Step 1: Cut drawer pieces 3/32" larger than needed (1/32" overhang at each end) Step 2: Draw a line 3/32" in from each end Step 3: Draw lines across both pieces 1/16" apart (see note on sizing dovetails below) Step 4: I color every other one on each piece so I know which ones to cut out Step 5: Cut out the colored pieces (I used an #11 bladed knife) and clean it up with folded sandpaper Step 6: Glue the pieces together you can see how each dovetail extends past the end by 1/32" Step 7: Let dry then clean up the outside joint with sandpaper In the second part we are going to dovetail in the face plate or drawer front. In this case we are going to go more for the appearance of a dovetail, or box joint, than a true dovetail, although it will increase the glue area and therefore the strength of the joint. This is only a sample not an actual drawer so it is a bit rough it is just to show the concept. Step 1: This is based on a 1/16" drawer side and a 1/8" this drawer front. Draw a line 1/16" from the joining edges on both the front and side. On the front piece draw a line 1/16" down the end (down the middle of the end) Step 2: Draw lines across both pieces (and down the end of the front piece) 1/16" apart. Step 3: I color in every other piece to show what needs to be removed Step 4: Cut out the 1/16" squares from the side piece and clean up with folded sandpaper Step 5: Cut out the 1/16" squares from the front piece and clean up with folded sandpaper. It isn't necessary to cut all the way down into the piece all that is needed is to remove a triangular shaped chip (see photo) Step 6: Sand the cut edge of the side piece to a 45 degree angle (see photo) Step 7: Stain the front piece as desired Step 8: Glue together, let dry, and clean up the joint with sandpaper Note: Many times the 1/16" dovetails wont fit exactly on the drawer so I have posted an alternative method at the end to create correct dovetails for any size drawer Alternative Dovetail Size Method (use this to replace the 1/16" measurement): Step 1: Measure the exact center of the piece you wish to dovetail and draw a line (1 on the drawing below) Step 2: Measure the exact center between line 1 and each end and draw lines on both sides (2 on the drawing below) Step 3: Measure the exact center between the existing lines or the existing lines and the ends and draw lines (3 on the drawing below) This breaks any size drawer side, back, or end into 8 evenly sized dovetails
  8. I've been trying to find the link for the tutorial that I believe was by someone here on the forum for how to make preserves without jars. It involved molds and resins and canes for the fruit slices. Does anyone recognize this and know where to find it?
  9. I found this great tutorial for a mini upright piano: http://dadasdollhouse.wordpress.com/2013/11/01/il-pianoforte-verticale-la-cassa-the-upright-piano-the-case/ They made theirs out of cereal box cardboard, I think, but I used matboard for the main body, so I had to measure some things to fit, but it turned out pretty well. They made a pin-hinged keyboard cover but I wanted to display the music sheet so I left if off. (Also I messed up the spacing for it so it wouldn't have worked out anyway. ) I don't know if you can make it out, but the black keys are individual pieces, not printed on! If I make another, I think I'll use small dowel with paper turnings (a la Kris at http://1inchminisbykris.blogspot.com/search/label/How%20to%20make%20a%201%20inch%20scale%20shabby%20chic%20bed) instead of the spindles that I used here (I accidentally broke one but I hope you can't tell which). Now I guess I need a piano bench; I bet that Kris' occasional table tut http://1inchminisbykris.blogspot.com/search/label/How%20to%20make%20an%20occasional%20table%20from%20mat%20board. will lend itself to a little bashing.
  10. I recieved so many nice comments and requests for a tutorial on how to make the paper pottery and bowls that I've been posting online and selling in my Etsy shop. And I finally got around to it. I'm making the bowls right along with posting, so it's getting broken down into parts. You can find part 1 on my blog here; http://kyle-lefort.blogspot.com/2013/07/paper-pottery-bowl-tutorial-part-1.html The rest will pop up as I work on each step. I know a few members on here were interesed, so hopefully they see this thread.
  11. I am working on my Little Shop of Horrors build and have run into a snag. I am looking for a tutorial on making a city sidewalk and one for making a rooftop HVAC unit. For the sidewalk, I am going to try some thin foam core. I will score it and paint it to see if it is sturdy enough to tolerate people touching it. I may also try rolling some paper clay really thin. Spackle will be too thick and not uniform enough. I may even try scoring the actual wood, painting it and adding cracks. I just want to see if there are other ideas out there. For the HVAC: The size is throwing me off a bit. The "roof" is mostly a glass window so you can see inside the shop. There are pictures of the roof HERE and HERE. I am just looking for some ideas or maybe some printies.
  12. I finally made my first tutorial and wanted to share. It's a very simple project, but I wanted to keep it simple to start with before I may more. It's here on my blog: http://mariasminis.blogspot.com/2012/12/pencil-tutorial.html and I also attached a pdf version to this post. Pencil Tutorial Small.pdf
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