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  1. We @ Little Houses Plus & Small World Products team would like to wish you a Happy New Year If you are looking for our website http://www.littlehousesplus-shop.co.uk
  2. You might like to look @ this if you were lucky enough to get a doll's houses at Christmas
  3. Someone suggested newbies start a thread about their build and ask questions so that everything would be in one place for them as they work on their projects. Sounds like a great idea so here is mine. I am building the orchid with the intent it be a tea room or tea room and gifts shop. The exterior will be painted in a true Victorian color scheme of rose tones, cream/white, and gray. I wanted to paint my own Victorian house in this palette but the Victorian next door to me is painted orange, yellow and brown. Color clash with my pinks. I opted for greens, beige, cream with a deep red burgundy accent in real life. The first floor will be a kitchen and dining room with a conservatory out the end of the dining room for additional seating/garden area. The upstairs will either be a bed and bath living quarters for the shop owner or a bath and gift/shop area. I haven't decided for sure yet. I have many questions and hope you all will be able to help out and give me your ideas, opinions and web sources. I have been reading like mad the past few weeks to learn about things I don't know about like wiring and lighting etc. Yes I am cross eyed at this point so it's time to ask questions. I would like to paper the house with Victorian damask or floral type papers and have not found exactly what I want. I checked out miniature.com, Earth and Tree along with ebay and many printable paper sites. I didn't find anything I was in love with for this project so I thought I would make my own papers. I found some beautiful images to use and take to a printer to print out since I don't have a laser printer. I have only been able to find one short video without sound on how to do this. I need more info. Like what to set the dpi for if I want to print on legal size paper and how to cut the image to make the pattern repeat. I have gimp but would be willing to download something else if someone here knows how to use different software. There are tons of videos on how to use gimp but I don't know what other terms to search for to find the right video to set up for large paper printing and making my pattern repeat. Any suggestions? Even printing out on 8.5 x 11 would be fine since I am going to plug and play my electrical and use corner molding to hide wiring. Been a long time since I used gimp so I don't mind learning things again. While researching lighting, I found warm white led bulbs but not cool white or daylight led. Do they exist? I may put some of these in the ceiling as can lights around a focal point Victorian type of light fixture in the dining room. I'm also interested in making some of my own light fixtures and led would work perfectly for this. Are there any in particular lights you would recommend for this purpose or suppliers. I think I can plug and play led bulbs. If I am wrong, please let me know. I have hung lots of wallpaper in real life and rewired my fair share of antique lights and chandeliers so I think I'm ready to tackle a dollhouse. Thanks in advance you wonderful mini makers! Please help me with these two dilemmas. 1. wallpaper 2.led bulbs/lighting.
  4. OH MY. I'm a doof. I took a loooong break from minis and am firing it up again, but have had to refresh on many things. I did the biggest rookie mistake. i spent so much wasted time meticulously installing wall sconces so the wires were under wallpaper and just realized they make ADAPTERS for them. i'd only done ceiling lights and wall plugs. duh me. They look good but such a royal pain to noodle it all through the hardest way possible. ugh
  5. Does anyone have any experience lighting a dollhouse made of Foamcore? I am trying to decide among 3 volt LED systems, and round wire or tape wire. Also the house will be 1:16 scale. It's a 3 story, 10 room wall house of my own design. Has anyone built a large project in Foamcore? Is the 3/16th thick, readily available Foamcore adequate, or do I need to track down the 1/2 inch stuff? Or how about a double thickness? I would really love to here from someone who has actually worked with Foamcore, not just conjecture. I live in an apartment so cutting out a house out of plywood is not practical. I have prior experience building kits and with the different wiring systems. I have also made a large house out of double thick cardboard before. I haven't ruled out cardboard as a building material, I just thought Foamcore might be more durable and nicer to work with.
  6. Doll's House lighting we have just upgraded our information to help you wire your doll's house http://www.littlehousesplus-shop.co.uk/Dolls-House-Wiring-for-Lights-Fires all the information you need don’t need white plugs
  7. The house I am currently working on is a Willow, by Corona Concepts. After watching hours of videos and reading numerous tips and techniques, I decided to go “old school” and install round wiring. The technique I am using could be called “grooving.” I have seen a video on this before, where a builder used a knife to cut a groove across the floor, then glued the wires in it before installing the carpet. Thus, the wires were hidden completely. I decided to use a similar concept, but the plywood floors in this particular kit were so nice that I did not want to use paint or carpet on them. Since I am pretty much still a beginner, I do not want to try installing a second layer of flooring. So, I sanded the floors and coated them with clear polyurethane. But now for the ceiling lights: On the ceiling side, I cut a groove about 3/16” wide and about half the depth of the board from the locations to hang the lights straight over to the wall where the chimney will be installed. Then I glued the wires in, but left just enough at the light fixture end to wrap around about 1/4 turn of the fixture base. This allows the fixture to be lifted for careful painting of the ceiling. Next, I filled the groove with wood filler. A product such as Redi-Patch would work just as well. when dry and smooth, (2 coats), I sanded the groove area and painted the ceiling with 2 coats of flat white house paint with primer in it. Then, glued the fixture and voila. The best part is that the ceiling looked perfect; no sign of the groove or filler. I forgot to mention that I did this technique on both the first and second floor ceilings before assembly. On this project, I am ignoring the order of assembly according to the instructions, choosing instead to perform everything I can on the individual pieces and units while each wall piece is out in the open. So, I drilled holes in the side walls to line up with the wires coming through the edges of the ceilings behind the chimney. When everything is assembled, the wires are totally obscured. Carrying the grooving one step further, I cut grooves on the exterior walls from the locations of living room outlets, side lights, etc. The wires are run to the bottom of the house, and are glued in place, then covered with siding. All connections are made under the house and behind the chimneys before final installation. I also used a voltage regulator from Cir-Kit to help extend the life of the light bulbs. I know it sounds tedious, but to me, it was easier than working with the tape and eyelets after assembly and then having to cover them up afterward. It just requires planning ahead to make the grooves and holes in advance after trial fitting but before actual assembly. The Dremel Tool will set you free!
  8. Hi All, I'm currently working on my Beacon Hill. I'm looking for suggestions on where to get Victorian looking lighting fixtures. Most of the common dealers like Miniatures.com sell the standard stuff, most of which is more candlestick colonial. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Hi everybody Will you be coming to? Miniatura NEC Birmingham England March 24th - 25th York Dolls House Fair Sunday 3rd June 2018 Miniatura NEC Birmingham England Sept 22 – 23rd I will be talking to people about wiring Dolls House and how not to use white plugs and extending wire with Heatshrink sleeving or anything people want to know about their Dolls Houses Wiring If you can’t get to any of these shows all the information is on our YouTube channel Little Houses Plus or all the links are on our website http://www.littlehousesplus-shop.co.uk/epages/62053002.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62053002/Categories/Dolls_House_Lighting/Wiring_your_Dolls_House
  10. Hello Everyone! I just discovered this forum and am so grateful! I am remodeling my childhood dollhouse that my dad made for me. I have cleared out the entire house of everything including wallpaper and flooring. I have left the existing electric tape and would like to add on to it seeing as though it still works. I bought the blue and copper tape wire to use throughout the house and am wondering how to attach it to the existing tape wire which is two copper pieces (no blue piece). Is it possible? I assume there is a way. I have also purchased brads to use in connecting them. From reading some other posts am I correct in thinking I should purchase eyelets instead? Thank you, Kouwe
  11. I was wondering if anyone has ever used any of these types Chandelier ornaments to make lighting? Their scale is a bit big but if you had high ceilings or a grand room I think they might be cute.
  12. From the album: Porch Mystery House

    Husband is working on the electrical of this rehab house. Wallpaper and flooring will cover the grooves and 28 gauge wire (cat5e) with solder connections.
  13. From the album: Fairfield Build

    Lighting for half scale is significantly limited and I didn't want golden fixtures in my Fairfield. A few licks of matt black paint and they look like a whole new set of lights. Now to start drilling the many holes as I wait for them to dry ;-p
  14. So I need assistance picking a trim for my linen shades. Mock up below. I'm going for a rustic modern look... I like the white trim but think it might be too white for the dark metal and a bit refined for the look I want. The one on the left, I like the colour and texture but it's maybe too bulky? The third one is hemp rope and I think maybe too much contrast? Or not.. Originally I did this.. Which I like the best.. but no light shows through when you turn it on..
  15. I purchased some light bulbs to add to DIY light fixtures. When they came in the mail they were different than I expected. Mainly, the wires were much shorter and were not insulated. Did I order the wrong thing? Can I still use these for my light fixtures? I'm a total newbie to the Dollhouse world and this is my first build and first lighting project. However, I'm experienced in other handicrafts so if you have any advice I'm sure I could manage it. Thank you!
  16. Hi everyone! Quick question on lighting. I want to put in 5 to 6 light fixtures with a total of roughly 10 bulbs what size transformer should i get? I read that if i get one that is too big it will short out the lights? As always I appreciate any feedback, thank you! Missy
  17. I'm working on a new 1:48-scale dollhouse and I'd like to have plenty of lights inside. Plus I'd like to have some 'canned lights' coming out of the ceiling in the kitchen work area. But I was worried about needing the lights in such confined and small spaces that getting the wood walls/ceilings might be dangerous. I used a 6-light set of battery-operated LED lights for a smaller 1:48-scale house and they worked fine but with this house there will be a lot more lights. I'm thinking at least a dozen, possibly even up to 16 or more with the kitchen lights. Has anyone done the larger-scale lighting with battery-operated LED lights? The 6-light battery-operated set I used had a 'coin' cell battery. But would that be enough for 16 lights? Maybe even 18 lights? I'm still working on the blueprints right now but now is the time to figure this out. I'd appreciate any hints. I purchased my last two sets of the battery-operated LED lights from Evans Designs - any other suggestions?
  18. Hi everyone, I am currently building a doll house and I've just bought a set of small christmas lights and a plastic chandelier with a single glass bulb inside. My problem is, i'm making this as a part of a school assessment to be marked and glass is not allowed. Does anyone know if i could possibly use glue to seal and protect the light globes while making them appear as plastic? Or are there possible alternatives to glass lighting? Any help would be wonderful - I am perfectly fine with flouting these marking guidelines (they are in place for safety for the markers but I'm not sure how a 1cm long broken lightbulb could do much harm). I can post photos if necessary =)
  19. Does anyone have any thoughts on the difference between the Cir-Kit and Creative Reproductions 2Scale lighting systems?
  20. From the album: The Laurel Build

    I have lights!!!! Thank you to Sable for the info on the Bam Bam tool (It is leaning up against the back wall)
  21. From the album: Misc Minis

    I was going to remove the male plug off of each light to test them as I read in the instructions, but hubby showed me an easier way. He gave me these test leads (aka jumper wires) and simple instructions so I can test each light without removing & replacing each plug. 1. Attach one end of the lead to each of the two pins of the light's plug. 2. Attach the other end of the lead to each of the two screws on the transformer. Do not touch leads to each other. 3. Plug in transformer So quick and easy!
  22. You'd think I could wire a dollhouse if I can teach 4th graders how to build series and parallel circuits along with electromagnets and how to make a light with a dill pickle, but the brass brad have me beat. I've gone through nearly 100 brads and only have 3 junctions created. They represent nearly 6 hours of work. Any tips on getting those brads into basswood walls? l started with the requisite dollhouse tools: 1/8" brass brads, tape wire, pilot hole punch, brad placement tool,small brass hammer, transformer, junction splice, and lead-in wire. Got the junction slice in and working, but from then on it's been more frustration than the presidential election! Brads bend, fall out of tool, won't go in-- so I moved up to tiny needle nose pliers. Brads bend, fall out of pliers, won't go in-- so I tried using a push pin for pilot holes and that worked a bit better, and I got one junction done. Then had difficulty with next one. Started using larger hammer with mixed success. Have tried small drill hole--creates a loose fit of brad. Tried holding brad with fine tweezers, and the brads bend worse. I know it should get easier with practice, but 6 hours seems like it should produce about a junction every 30-45 minutes. Am I being unrealistic? How long should it take? My husband thinks a larger single brad should work. I have 3/8 " brass plated brads which will work without puncturing the walls, but they are brass plated. What has worked for you? What advice can you share? I built full size kitchen cabinets with less frustration, and you really can light up a dill pickle.
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