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Hi Friends, I have gone ballistic and torn off several windows. Embraced sanding and fallen in love with Spacke (@havanaholly). I hope to have the courage to get some of the interior trim off... Now I will need to glue the windows and trim back on... Can you recommend a glue for the window film and frames? (I have a spare Harrison box set for parts). Would you glue the windows to the house and then add the frames s the instructions recommend? I have Titebond and Beacon Quick Grip. (And Gorilla Glue...) You know the original instructions say hot glue gun, but I have read enough here to know—no! Thanks all!

Hi. I am making my first dollhouse; a half scale Tennyson. The instructions say to use a hot glue gun and I am finding this very messy. Most on this forum seem to prefer wood glue. Pros and cons? I am also planning to stain the whole house instead of paint. Should I stain the pieces before gluing? Thanks for helping out a newbie. Geraldine

Hello everyone! I'm new at this stuff, but I've been reading this forum for months and I've learned so much from you all. Finally realized I should register. I'm hoping you can advise me on one issue... I'm attempting to renovate a large 1970's dollhouse that originally had no siding. Very carefully I glued on clapboard siding (the kind that comes in overlapping wooden sheets) using Beacon Quik-Grip. After letting each side dry overnight, weighted down and taped, I began to paint it with Kilz primer and regular latex house paint. And then... horrors! The siding began to warp a bit and came up in a few spots! The water-based paint must have overwhelmed the sticking power of the glue. But even so, the warping was minor enough that I thought I could just get away with squeezing more glue under the lifted edges and weighting them down. It was still not quite as even as it had been before painting, but it seemed... okay. But THEN... we went away from the house for a couple of hot summer months, and when we came back I saw that the humidity had done a number on the siding. MORE warping! I ended up scraping off one entire side of it. Do you have any advice to keep this from happening again? Is there another kind of paint I could use that might impart less moisture to the wood? Thank you! L

I finished the outside of my house ALL of it! Yay! Its my first house. I have been finding amazing videos along the way. I even found what kind of paper to use to get a painted house look and big enough to not have seems. Now i am ready to put the paper on and put all the trim on, door, window, baseboard, and crown molding. However i want it still able to come off and change if i ever want it too or to access the lights. I went with the round wire lights. I have cut my grooves and taped the wires in those grooves and down. I am so ready to cover it all up now and start making the inside look as awesome as the outside! So i need glue tecomindations that arent so perminent.

Hi all- new to this forum and building houses. I would like to know how you put in the windows so they don't get glue all over them. I also want to know what the best method is to remove wood glue from the windows. Thanks in advance!

Hello Everyone! I am starting my very first project - The Orchid. I have read all the instructions thru and it states to use hot glue. However after reading several comments I see most people are using Tacky glue. Is this best? Which glue will stand the test of time? Thank you in advance for any help / advise! Missy

Best Adhesive For Thin Wood Veneer? What is the best adhesive to use on thin wood such as shingles or veneer for flooring? I posed this question on the Greenleaf Forum recently, and the answers were as varied as the species of wood available. Some liked to use hot glue, but the drawback was the longevity and the fact that getting burned was common. Some liked to use rubber cement, but others pointed out that eventually it dries out and loses it's bond. Some said contact cement, but others reminded us that you only get one chance to position it correctly. Once it's touched to the other piece, you're out of luck. Also, the smell was terrible. Still others said regular wood glue, securely clamped until the glue cures. Yet some said they had bad experiences with wood glue not drying clear and wood still curling in spite of clamping. Then there was the super glue camp, also pointing out the mess and the expense. What this told me is that we've all experimented and didn't like some of the results with different products. But do we all have our favorites in spite of certain risks? I had a terrible time finding a good solution with Encounters Gifts & Grub. I had thin veneer strips from HBS that I wanted to use as clapboard, wainscoting and paneling. Plus, there were all of the shingles! I had a lot to do, and needed whatever it was going to be to work! I started out with Tacky Glue and quickly realized that the only way to prevent curling was to put a thin sheen of it across the piece then get it down immediately and clamp it. That's okay if you have a lifespan of 1000 years and can wait for glue to dry. Even the clamping quickly method sucked. When I lifted the clamp off I now had oozed glue to clean up. Tacky is not a good candidate for sanding, either. Then I tried contact cement. Oh it stuck! To me and everything else within a 10 foot radius. And, if you aren't a pristine crafter, you'll end up like me with little rubberized gobs sticking out between your seems. :0( I tried Quick Grab. I was just as messy with that. I couldn't get it applied fast enough! I'd put out a little squirt on waxed paper, try to get the cap back on quickly before the oozing became too incessant, then try to spread it on the wood before it became too crusty to stick. I always somehow ended up with it on my fingers and didn't realize it until I had touched something. At $7 for that tube I'd have needed to be a millionaire to get all my wood attached. <insert sad sigh> In my pout, head on the table, 1000 mile stare, I just so happened to look at my wallpaper paste. It was sitting at eye level. It said "A Stikflat Glue". What? Could it be?!? It was the one and only Grandmother Stover's. I've been using that on wallpaper for ever! And it makes other stuff stick flat? At this point I really had nothing to lose. I took an old paint brush and painted a nice, thin bead across the wood strip. I stuck it on the wall. It stuck. I stared at it for what seemed like a full week. I never caught it curling. After several cocktails hours, I tried to pry it off. Nope! It was not coming off! Success! I used it to glue the rest of my veneer without a problem. It was easy to wipe off any excess with water, dried clear, and over three years later is still holding on great! Plus, it's like $5, and goes a loooong way! Okay, so I thought I might get an answer from the collective genius of the forum. Some magic product I had never heard of, and it would change my life. Not so much. It seemed everyone was just as dissatisfied as I had been. So, for the Alki Point flooring, I decided to experiment again. I used what I had on hand, because I assume most miniature enthusiasts would have the same type of adhesives, too. Quick Grab Tacky Glue, Titebond Wood Glue (the clear drying kind), and good old Grandmother Stover's. I have a pack of very thin veneer to use on my project, so what better to experiment with. I cut several long and several short pieces using my rotary paper trimmer. I took a piece of the 1/8" plywood from the Greenleaf kit (cut out left over from window) to use as the gluing surface. Then I added the adhesives to the long and short pieces, and affixed them to the plywood scrap. I pressed each of them a few times, but didn't want to clamp them. What would they do on their own without any force over time? They have been drying for a couple of hours now, and the results are pretty much as I expected. The Quick Grab Tacky - dried with edges curling up The Titebond - Significant curl initially, drying somewhat flatter but still not flat The Grandmother Stover's - Never curled, Stukflat, Stayingflat! Please do your own experimenting and please share your comments! I'd love to hear about what has worked (and not worked) for you! I know what I'll be using for the wood floors on the Alki Point! Good old Grandmother Stover's!

I am building a Beacon Hill dollhouse. I have tried to stop using hot glue ever since it was pointed out to me that hot glue won't keep as well in my dollhouse long term. I've been using mostly wood glue, which has worked well. Now I'm doing step Y - exterior trim. I used wood glue last night to attach the very small, single thickness bay window brackets. However, I just took the tape off and they snap right off with any pressure at all. It doesn't seem like wood glue did the trick this time. How do I get these little guys to stay put? Thanks!!

Hello all! Working on the Beacon Hill and am about to put up siding. Instructions suggest hot glue but I've read many postings on this forum suggesting never to use hot glue. Instructions say to avoid using white glue due to moisture in the glue warping the siding. Then I've read in Gina's blog, she uses Aileen's Tacky glue. Any other suggestions?

I have a furniture kit, it says to paint and then glue (reccomends hot glue) the furniture. So that's what I did. Idk if its me or what, but it looks horrible! My fiancé, tried building a piece with wood glue and then painting and it looks just as bad. Is there a glueing 101 I missed in school? I've never had this bad of results on other projects. Sorry, I needed to vent a little. Any glue advice is greatly appreciated.

Hi All. I used Aleene's Turbo Tacky Glue on two pieces of my Orchid dollhouse and the positioning isn't correct. Can I use a hair dryer to fix this problem?

OK, my FIRST question about mdf. The instructions for my new RGT Contemporary Ranch said to use white glue. Is that really the best? I've read tab & slot that said to use hot glue and I know that was wrong, so I wondered if white glue was the best for mdf. Any input? Lu Ann

I have some tiny 1:48 furniture kits - they look perfectly logical for assembly...but I am wondering about glue. For 1:12 I used wood glue - it was pretty thick. Is there something special I should use for tiny wood kits? Or just use regular wood glue but with a tiny needle dispenser? Thanks!

Okay, the steampunk teaset is on the drawing board and I have my supplies. Now I have a question--what do you steampunkers recommend for glueing metal, wood, wire and plastic together?

So I am working on my first dollhouse as something to keep me occupied while my husband is out of town for work. I am putting together the Orchid, and am very excited. However, I have read some conflicting information on what type of glue is best to use to hold the house together. I hear hot glue (which I hate using), white glue, wood glue, and silicone glue. Which is the kind that will work the best and hold the best for years to come?

Hi everyone I would like to introduce myself, my name is Sarah, I live in Empangeni, South Africa, where I work as a doctor. I am a complete newbie to the world of miniatures, apart from ice cream stick cabins I built as an eight year old fashioned after the Little House on the Prairie. I have always loved dollhouses (I had a beautiful shop-bought dollhouse as a little girl inherited from older cousins), and it was my absolute favorite plaything and made my imagination run wild. I also have a deeply entrenched love of Laura Ingalls Wilder's Little House books. I would therefore like to make my first project a log-cabin dollhouse, furnished after the log cabin built in the second book in the series (Little house on the prairie) I have been checking out Dura-Craft houses available on eBay. What is the difference between the Oregon trail log cabin and the Pioneer cabin by Dura-Craft? They look the same to me in the pictures posted on line. I would also like to ask, has anyone built one of these two houses before? Are they worth it, or is there a better model kit for a pioneer cabin? Also, what tools, glues and other supplies will I need to purchase for this project? ( I won't be using wallpaper as I want to maintain the rustic pioneer feel) Thanks everyone, and nice to meet you.

I rarely go to eBay but happened to follow a link this morning and then rambled onward until I found Dollhouse Moveable Miniatures Glue. The description reads: I'm posting this in the General Mini Talk forum instead of the designated eBay forum because I'm not so much interested in buying the glue as in finding out more about it. The photo shows what looks to be a nail polish bottle with a fairly crude (read: home made) label. I can't read all of the contents, but alcohol seems to be a part of the mix. Has any one used this? Or even seen a rave about it in a mini magazine? If it works well, I'd be all for it.