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Found 10 results

  1. In the process of renovating and updating my childhood house. Just covered the old painted attic floors with this golf flecked cork fabric, updated wallpaper and paint. Ordered some baseboard/skirting and a few new accessories to finish out the space.
  2. Hello all, Apologies if this has been covered before. I did some searching and couldn't find an answer. I've decided that the paper imitation hardwood floor I put down in my Brookshire just isn't working for me. This house will eventually be played with a bit by my niece and nephew so I didn't want to break the budget on floors and the floor paper looked alright I guess but I just wasn't happy with it. It was also already starting to come apart in the second floor hallway so I already removed that section (at the same time decided that I wasn't happy with the wallpaper in the hall or bathroom, or the bathroom floor, and that the bathroom door wasn't sitting quite right so I knocked that all down and re-papered and floored - I'm sure this is a familiar story to you all). I experimented with a hardwood floor from popsicle sticks. Didn't really expect much but after staining and polyurethaning it actually looks pretty good. The hall is sort of small and oddly shaped so the pop sticks were well suited to the task. I'll be using basswood strips for the living and dining rooms. My questions is: what is the best method for getting a pop stick floor to lay flat? Yes! glue or Weldbond or something else? I made a floor template out of mixed media paper then glued the sticks directly onto that then stained and polyurethaned. I made the floor in two separate pieces and there's a definite roll in them but not too bad. Is it more about applying weight on top of them as the glue dries and less about what glue you use? My second question is: is it possible to zhush up cheap "marble" flooring such as this by mounting it to mixed media paper or illustration board and then carefully tracing out the grout lines in order to give the floor some depth? I have some of this, I like the color and the speckling, it's nice and shiny, but it's very flat. I'd prefer not to waste it, but it just needs... something. Hoping my fellow miniaturists have some tips for me! Tim
  3. From the album: Mini Paper Printables

    Score, Cut, Glue.....paper is fun to work with....Use card stock for most things.....keep your hands clean....dont use too much glue.
  4. I decided to make popsicle stick flooring in the entire attic area of my adopted RGT house. I still have a few bundles to tape together then I will run into the cellar to the scroll saw. Yesterday after cutting a small amount of the rounded tabs off of the ends my DH came home and asked what I was doing. After telling him , he of course had to give me his two cents worth of advice and here is where my questions come from lol. My plan was to cut 3 inch pieces and at the end I would need a one inch filler piece. Knowing this I was going to do first row started with a 3 inch and the second row started with the one inch piece. Hubby was quick to point out our hardwoods and said that no seams matched up every other row. He's right...So now I am making bundles of sticks and making random lengths so that no boards match up. (seems he loves to make things more difficult for me). My questions are: When you lay a pop-stick floor do you use a filler in between boards, almost like a grout? Or do you just leave the inevitable small space between boards? Is tacky glue okay to use ? I want to make the floor whitewashed wood, do I have to paint before laying the floor down? Or can I put it all down, attached to house and then run a watered down white paint over it?
  5. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    As described in this thread:
 http://www.greenleaf...showtopic=36495 


I've used real slate (gathered and cut myself) for mini roofs in the past, but not for floors. And I had neither the time nor the inclination to add real slate to this particular project, but I really wanted the look—in a room where there's a wood fire going and a lot of heat being generated by the sugaring process, for months running, a slate floor just makes good sense. 



This faux-slate floor came out great, with no materials at all except paint


. Note: The base of the 2014 HBS Contest kit is MDF, so it has no grain to contend with as plywood might.


 1. I took a small power sander, dinged the heck out of it in a few different ways, smashed it with a hammer randomly, etc, 'til it had the surface texture of slate. 2. Then I painted it blacks and greys until it had the look of slate.
 3. I laid out the "tile" shapes, and used a tiny router bit to make score marks delineating the edges of the slate floor "tiles"—in other words, I dug *down* through that dinged and painted surface. So the "grout" color is the original color of the base's wood.
 4. Last, I gave it several coats of paste wax and buffed the dickens out of it between coats. Not only does it look very similar to slate, after the wax it even feels a lot like slate flooring would. Simple, inexpensive, and results that surprised me. I had no idea if this would work when I started!
  6. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    See the previous photo for a step-by-step description of how I did this floor. It's been said that it also looks a great deal like soapstone, so if you've ever wished for mini soapstone countertops, you may want to give this method a try. I'd probably ding it a bit less for soapstone, though.
  7. moonberry

    Kitchen Floor

    From the album: Eternity Point

    I reduced the green mosaic paper by to one quarter size. The scale looks much better. I've cut out large rectangle floor tiles, it adds some interest to the mosaics. If I join them directly, some pieces won't have "grout" in between and it just looks silly. The white furniture isn't final - the fridge is too high to fit anywhere due to the sloping roof. Maybe an ice box is a better idea. I like the green Aga stove, possibly with oak furniture. The front of the room will be the dining area.

    © Lene Pieters

  8. From the album: The Steampunk House

    This is a close-up of the eclectic tile floor, found in the Kitchen. It was only supposed to cover half of the room, but at the last minute I expanded to design to fit the entire space. Thin strips of polymer clay, hand cut into tiles, and glued onto graph paper. Some of the corrugated scrapbooking paper, from he fireplace's back-splash and some gold wrapping paper were also mixed in to help tie the whole room together. Everything was then sealed with Polyurethane. Read about the whole project and see more photos on my blog; http://kyle-lefort.blogspot.com/2013/05/undersized-urbanite-entry-steampunk.html

    © Kyle Lefort 2013

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