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Found 21 results

  1. Hello, I’m building the Laurel and purchased a housework’s mail slot and door knobs. Neither came with directions and I’m not seeing any tutorials online. Does anyone know if there is a way to make the mail slot actually work? I’m wondering because the slot has two pieces. Also, the door knob is in two pieces - a plate and a knob. Do I use a tiny drill bit to put a hole in the door for the knob? I’m a newb to the forum. My first dollhouse build, but I watched my mom build my three dollhouses as a child (Coventry Cottage, Brookwood, and the Cambridge). All of which I still have displayed in a closet in my home office. I was a lucky girl and hoping my daughter enjoys her Laurel as much as I enjoyed my houses.
  2. Could someone tell me what the ceiiling height of the the Willow Dollhouse is? Thinking of purchasing and wonder if I would be able to replace the doors and windows with standard dollhouse (non-Greenleaf) elements. Thanks!!!!
  3. What is the best way to do hinges on the doors of the Garfield, or for that matter, any of ther 1" doll houses. The scale brass hinges just dont seem to be as robust as they should be for a childs doll house.
  4. Howdy everyone, I'm currently working--slowly but surely--on my first house (surprise!) The Orchid. I was wondering, has anyone tried to modify the side sheet containing the bay window to suit French doors? I've swapped the side sheets, in favor of more wall space in the "parlor" (the larger room to the left), so now the bay window would look in on the small kitchen under the stairs. I'd prefer to "open up" the space by allowing more light in; also, I must admit I don't love the idea of working hard to build that bay window if it isn't going to be a focal feature. Relatively long story somewhat shorter, have any of your found that it was possible to convert the bay window into a space fit for French doors? If so, how? Any and all guidance is deeply appreciated! Hope everyone is having a lovely holiday!
  5. So I was planning on dressing up the 'doors' that came with the Beacon Hill kit and pretty them up a bit, but I'm feeling a bit disheartened to find that most of them are not in a good shape... they came with some pretty big imperfections (holes) on the 'bad side' of the plywood cutouts.... and I don't think I'll be able to cover these up I want my doors to have a wood finish so the plan was to stain them, but some of these 'holes'/'scratches' are not only deep into the plywood but also look darker around the edges (as you can see from pic above, looks like a burn mark) and I can't think of a way to disguise them without covering up the surface entirely. I'm trying to think what I can do about this and the most logical solution seams to be to just cut new ones out of wood. So I went to check on prices of the wood boards, plus hinges and the trims I'll need to dress up the doors, and it all started to add up... to the point I have to wonder if it would be cheaper to just buy pre-assembled doors and use those instead (even if I have to pry them out of the casings and hinge them). The Beacon Hill doorways seam to be a bit narrower than most "standard" dollhouse doors so I suppose I'll probably have to modify the openings to fit them? I doubt I could 'cut' the pre-fab door to fit and not look 'weird'. What should I do? My house is still in 'dry' fit so it wouldn't be a problem to widen the openings, but I am not sure if that's a wise decision considering the space around some doors isn't a lot (specifically, the second floor bedroom 'wardrobe' door). Have you had this problem before and what did you do to 'fix' the door and have a smooth surface? Should I just scrap them and make new ones from scratch?
  6. I couldn't figure out what to do with the door (I didn't like the plan wood door included with the Sugarplum) so I decided to make a unique door with polymer clay. But now I'm having the problem of molding. I want to do molding around door but not quite sure how to achieve the rounded top. Amy suggestions? Also, what do you use for Windows? thanks in advance. BTW, the polymer clay worked like a peach for anyone who is having a similar problem. Great way to create your very own piece (for whatever)
  7. I have two houses I'm currently working on ( a duracraft and a greenleaf) and wanted to install pre=manufactured interior doors. However all the manufactured doors I find are designed for 3/8" ply/MDF, and obviously these particular houses are made from 1/8" ply. How would I go about installing these. I have thought about just cutting a whole 2nd wall to thicken the partition so the door will work, but it seems a bit overkill! lol I also want to use a standard external door as well, though the external walls do at least have clapboard siding installed which thickens them to roughly 1/4" so the difference isn't so noticeable. Any thoughts or experience?
  8. I have just started my 2nd Beacon Hill (my first was back in the 80s). I am eyeing the door cutouts since I never did get to finish the interior on my original one. The size of the door is slightly smaller than the standard ones I see for sale on miniature sites (6-3/4" x 2-1/4" as opposed to 3-1/16" x 7-1/16") so I am hoping for input on what others have done to make or buy 6-panel doors, etc. for the interior. Thanks for your help!
  9. So... are pre-made French doors bash-able? I have an opening that I want to fill with french doors. It has the correct width, but the height is 1.5 inches short. So, the options seem to be either make the door shorter or make the hole bigger. I'd rather make the door shorter, if possible. Any ideas / opinions / warnings ?? Thanks for your help!!
  10. I made my kitchen cabinets at least a year ago and I have been trying to find the right hinges ever since. A couple of weeks ago I found the right type of hinge on EBay but they were a little pricey. Then I discovered tiny screw in eyelets that I thought might work so I ordered some, very nice price and they are working great. I have put a picture in to show you but keep in mind I still have to install the center panels in the doors. I will put some detail pictures in my gallery if anyone is interested in how I did it.
  11. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    Be sure to use metal strips that are thin, but without much flex in them, or your doors will have a tendency to bend a bit away from the house. It's livable, but annoying. How do I know this? Don't ask! Let's just say that version 2.0 of the hardware is currently on my worktable, scheduled for a weekend install. ;)
  12. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    A space-saver—barn doors like these roll to the sides, rather than requiring enough space to swing open. Just the right thing for the Aucoins' maple sugar shop.
  13. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    Doors are scratch built. Note the hardware in place at the top, running in the channel; hardware and channel are both black, to imitate the look of wrought iron.
  14. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    Finding just the right tiny wheel was tricky. I looked at every store I have near me for tiny real wheels, but didn't find anything this tiny. I considered whether polymer clay might be strong enough to withstand the abuse sliding doors will take. I looked at buttons. And when I was about to give up on the doors' being able to function and just fake it, there, near the buttons at my local fabric shop, is a row of snaps. Yes, indeed, one-half of a snap makes the perfect wheel for this purpose, with its protruding stem the right size to ride on the edge of the track, and a rustic look in mini that a detail freak like me can love. The hardware is assembled with thin strips of metal that attach to the door, bent to receive the snap ("wheel") in the middle of the bend, and a black jewelry headpin, cut short, for the "nail" that holds the assembly together. Looks good, and actually works. Whee!
  15. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    The track has to run twice as wide as the door-opening, of course, in order that both doors can slide (roll, really) out to let the door open fully.
  16. From the album: 2014 HBS Creatin' Contest--Erabliere Aucoin, Sugar Shack and Shop

    I wanted to give the sugar shop sliding doors that run on wheels, like Norm Abram used to have on the New Yankee Workshop. (In case you haven't heard of the program, or can't remember the doors, you can see the barn doors in the background of the shot of Norm on this page of the NYW site: http://www.newyankee...index.php?id=48or look on YouTube for a video of the program—he steps through those doors at the beginning of almost every episode.) In this shot you see the channel, or track, that the wheels of the barn door hardware will run on. That was the easy part...
  17. I did a search and still need some help , what can I use to make a sliding door on a track ? It will be on the front of the barn , what can I use for the track and on the top of the door so it slides ? I am also looking for a pocket door tutorial , I was looking at Kathie B's pictures but would like some more information on how to make one. Thanks in advance , Stacey
  18. Kimba

    Grand Room Box

    From the album: Some of my Work

    French door entry into the Grand Room Box
  19. From the album: My First Rehab Project - Jewel

    These were in really rough shape so I covered them with veneer . These will have lace curtains and be the bathroom doors.
  20. mollymmoore

    IMG 0718[1]

    From the album: Real Good Toys Victorian Cottage

    This is my first build with opening windows. I took them apart for painting. I work so slowly, usually just with one paint coat a day. I hope these will be ready to go in by next weekend.
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