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Posts posted by macduff

  1. Emily,

    I just took a look at your Orchid breakfast bar, and I really like that idea, either on the open end or even by the bay window, since there's not really room for a table or anything. I think I need to mock up a floor plan w/ dimensions so that I can play around w/ the cabinets. I like your 'wonky idea' #2: move the pantry to the window wall, put the sink by the open wall, and then maybe put a breakfast bar behind it. It really opens up the kitchen....

    Thanks everyone for the input, and I will post more when I've decided what to do!

  2. here are some pictures...you can see the kitchen is very small - as it is, I have to shorten the sink cabinet so that it doesn't stick out quite as far. In the third picture, you can see the cabinets from the outside. Hope the pix aren't too small. I have a new computer, and haven't figured out how to make the images small enough to attach.






  3. Debora - I really like the mirrored paper idea - I think that may be a contender!

    Emily - I took some pictures w/ the counter top laid out as well as the window from the outside, I just have to figure out how to upload them. Stay tuned!

  4. Hi All,

    So I wished for a half scale Chantilly for Christmas, and am currently mid-build. I bought the half scale Lydia Pickett kitchen kit from insomesmallway.co.uk, but I don't know what to do about the window in the Chantilly. Basically, the window in the kitchen is too big for the upper and lower cabinets to fit around, and I'm hoping you can help me with some good ideas about what to do. This is my first half scale project, so I don't want to be too ambitious. Also, I already trimmed out the exterior of the window, so I don't feel too much like undoing what I already did. I'm thinking of just covering the window from the inside w/ the wallpaper and pretending it's not there, and then just painting fake curtains that you would see from the outside looking in on the back of the wallpaper.

    But I'm open to suggestions, and hoping you all have some clever and interesting ideas? Thanks!!!!!


  5. I had heard bad things about hot glue as well. I think it has been quite a few years since the house was originally put together, so I was worried about the hot glue not holding. I haven't really inspected it closely to see how well it's put together. I'm trying to clear some space in my workroom, and in the meantime the house is sitting in the corner of the garage.

  6. I just picked up a partially completed Artply Barrington on CL. The house was put together using hot glue, and I'm wondering if I should take it apart and re-glue it with wood glue. What do you think? I was thinking maybe I could use a hair dryer to melt the glue? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


  7. Hi Judith,

    I've been away from this website for a while, so I just saw your post. I recently finished the farmhouse 505, and I used tape wire. I didn't put outlets on the ground floor except in the kitchen where I ran the tape up the wall, but I ran the tape along the ceiling of the upper floor, and then was able to branch out wherever I wanted to go from there. Also, if you want specific pix of any angles of the house, let me know and I'll gladly take some more shots and post in my album. The house can be tough going sometimes, but it's really worth it! Don't get discouraged!


  8. Holly,

    I'm with you now...I was thinking of seams if you add 2 windows somewhere else. Then you have enough siding in total, but they may not be all the right length, so you'd have to join them together. But if Judith doesn't want any additional windows, then as you said she would have to create additional siding strips. Either way, even if they're not a perfect match, they could be easily hidden behind the porch roof.


    The gable walls you wrote about are made out of the punchout plywood. They are the parts that get covered with the fishscale shingles in the illustration. All the other outside walls are made solely out of the milled clapboard strips. Good luck with whatever road you choose to take! And be sure to post pictures!

  9. Judith,

    I'm with Holly on this - I think you can do it, and it won't be that hard to get a really good finish. The patches will really just be vertical seams, so you're just gluing 2 pieces of siding end to end. Then with Holly's suggestion of glue and sawdust mix, I think you won't have much of a visible seam at all. If you really are worried about the seams showing in the front, you can always use a longer piece of siding meant for the side of the house, put it in the front, and then put the patched pieces on the side. The best place would be on the side where the porch will cover it. That porch roof can probably hide a whole mess of sins, if necessary!

  10. If you have the same version of the Duracraft FH 505 that I have, siding isn't in addition to the wall, it is the wall. It comes in strips of about 2-3 inches high, and you have to glue them together to form the wall. I mentioned this in your other post about bashing - I think you could put 2 windows somewhere else, and then use the extra pieces to fill in where the kitchen windows go. My kit did not supply any extra siding strips, only enough to make all the walls as is. I think you could easily add 1 window to both the ground floor and the floor above on the side walls next to the chimney to give you the extra material to fill in the front 2 windows. Check out my pictures in my gallery for a better view. I put my kitchen in the same place you are thinking of locating yours.

  11. I recently finished building this very house, and I can tell you that the siding strips are the actual walls. However, if you don't want to try to patch the front windows, maybe you could add windows elsewhere, and use the cut out pieces to fill in the gaps for the front windows. There are no side windows in the room you are looking to use as the kitchen, so maybe you want to put a window on the side? Just be careful to avoid putting it where the chimney goes. You could add a second window in the upstairs room directly above it, or even add a window on the opposite side of the house on the ground floor.

  12. What a timely post! I finished my daughter's Apple Blossom a few weeks ago, but after all that building, I was too tired to post any pictures. I've recovered now and just posted some pictures, and will eventually get back to building the furniture for my farmhouse. But I have to take an exam in May first, so no dollhousing til then! But I'll being reading other forum posts just to get my mini fix!

  13. Hi Roxy,

    I recently did my farmhouse kitchen w/ a rooster theme. spminiatures.com had a lot of really cute rooster themed kitchen stuff. They also have chickens and roosters. I have a white hen and a rooster that roam around my farmhouse too!

    I also got a couple of roosters at hobbylobby.com, and they've very reasonable too.

  14. Pats,

    I feel your pain! I have a RGT Newport, and the lights on the first floor work great, but there are 2 connections on the top floor where the little grommets always want to pop out, and I always have to run my hand over the wallpaper and try to push them back in. I just bought an Apple Blossom for my daughter for Xmas, and I hope I have better luck w/ that. I got RGT's little tool that they recommend for MDF, and I hope that helps. But I remember sweating through that MDF wiring on the Newport!!! I recently finished a 1/8 inch plywood Duracraft house, and the wiring was so easy in comparison. Try to do as many single tape runs as possible! Good luck!

  15. I usually use cabinets and drawers to hide stuff I don't want out, like out-of-season Halloween and Xmas decorations. But I love the idea. The details in your house are amazing!

    I especially love that you lined the drawers. Your Newport is beautiful! I have a Newport, and looking at your posts makes me want to totally redo it!

  16. Sherry, I agree about the thinkness - I think my problem may be the paint brand. I noticed that the Delta paints are in general not as thick as some of the other brands. I thought using Delta paints with Delta crackle would give me better results, but that hasn't been the case. I tried crackling a number of times on various things, and experimented w/ longer drying time, shorter, etc., but I never get the results I see other people get. Next time I go to the store, I'm going to try a different brand. Roxxie -I would think yellow over white would work well - did you get more crackling after it dried a bit? I ended up giving my table a second coat of white, and then distressed it the old fashioned way - with a good dose of sandpaper!

  17. I just built this table for my farmhouse, and thought it would look good w/ a crackle finish on the legs. But I can't get the paint to crackle. I'm always left with what looks like just a bad paint job. Does anyone else have this problem? I have never been able to get a crackle finish. Is there a secret? Can my bottle of crackle finish be bad? I'm using Delta Ceramcoat Crackle. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about. Don't know if you'll be able to see the lack-of-crackle detail on the legs...Any help would be much appreciated!


  18. I love some of the wallpapers that you can find online, particularly the William Morris type ones. But I've heard comments about computer ink fading, so I've never tried it. Have you ever had any bad experiences w/ printer ink fading?

  19. I like Roosevelt Rose, too. My favorite brand of mini wallpaper is Broadnax, but for some reason, HBS doesn't seem to carry that brand at all. I've used it a lot in my farmhouse, and I have a Victorian Newport by HBS where I used that paper a lot too. I haven't repeated any papers yet, but then I only have 2 houses. So far.

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