Jump to content


Showing status updates and topics posted in for the last 60 days.

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Today
  2. It's a cute little house, Carrie, but the style just doesn't grab me.
  3. Glad it worked out! Those directions sometimes look like hieroglyphics lol
  4. Yesterday
  5. Hi havanaholly, I'm in the Bradenton area, but do go to Orlando once in a while. Thanks!
  6. Welcome! My family is from SE Ohio but I live in AR now.
  7. I had a hard time following a lot of the directions as things just don't make a lot of sense to me without pictures so I'm sympathetic. I've been looking at that house but haven't built it. I hope it comes together for you two. Welcome!
  8. Common sense tells us that the more glue is used, the more water can seep into the shingle, and the more likely the shingle will buckle. The entire backside of the shingle does not need to be smeared with whatever glue is being used. A thin bead or even a few drops will do the job. Shingles are not subject to the structural strains of joints. In the case of gluing shingles, less is definitely more. Or as the old Brylcreem ad said, "A little dab 'll do ya!"
  9. Last week
  10. I found mine online by googling: http://www.corona-concepts.com/instructions/laurel.PDF
  11. I agree, but put a some wax paper on after the floor dries and then a heavy book overnight.
  12. Drill a hole in the ceiling so the wires from the light will poke up through it. Run the tape wire along the floor near the hole. Attach wires to tape using eyelets. Floor treatment will cover the wiring. This is one place where leaving the stock plugs attached will be a problem. The only way I can think to do it with plugs intact is to drill a hole and pull wires through as above (plug will have to be removed), run wires across room to nearest wall, cut wires to size, reattach plug, and use pound-in outlet. The outlet and plug can be hidden behind furniture, curtain, etc. I would lean toward the first option. There are less parts to wiggle loose and cause trouble later. I have not used the wall switches, so I cannot comment on that.
  13. When I glue mini upholstery I lay the piece on a bit of waxed paper, lay a small piece of scrap wood or chip board on top and clamp it with small clamps until dry.
  14. Renee, the front-opening dollhouse "doors" are the front walls, so you would want them to match their corresponding rooms when the house is closed up. As for guoins, you can cut them from paper mache packaging/ egg cartons or make sheets of paper mache, or use paper clay, or use strips of masking tape or painters' tape and spackling compound or joint compound.
  15. I’ve bought jewelry from there twice and had good experiences both times.
  16. Suzanne, I have requested that your email address be removed from your post. You do NOT ever want to post personal information where spammers and scammers and all other sorts of nasties can harvest it; we have a personal messaging feature that shows up as a little envelope icon when you hover your cursor over a member's username.
  17. Welcome to the little family, Amanda. After working in 1:24 scale, 1:12 will seem huge.
  18. It's me again. Does anyone have the instructions for the Bellingham Farmhouse? The ones I have were from Nana's Minis page and are rather blurry and difficult to read (at least for these aging eyes). So wondering if anyone has a clearer version they could copy and scan to me - or is the blurry print just the nature of the beast? thanks!
  19. Oh dear, Carrie! I surely do NOT want to be the cause of an injury! I will wait it out for a bit longer....got plenty to do in the meantime.
  20. Hello LiliPutian!! Glad you found us! I do mostly rehabs for clients and just started a new project - - obviously another hastily built house for a child's birthday or Christmas. I was expecting to simply do a renovation, but the entire thing was put together with hot glue , so now I have taken it completely apart for a re-build! Anyway- glad you are here and you will find LOTS of great ideas and folks to answer your questions. Have fun!
  21. Fantastic ideas one and all! Thanks! I will be doing a lot of experimenting in the next few weeks. The Squirrel House (the eBay fixer-upper I’m also working on) is wavering between becoming a Tudor Townhouse or a North Oxford Gothic, so I should be pretty proficient at this when I’m done.
  22. How about here: https://shop.greenleafdollhouses.com/gloucester-dollhouse-kit/
  23. Did you know that it doesn't open? I've been meandering through the world of mini trunks since I'm wanting to do a steamer trunk (the kind that stands on it's side and opens) but I had no luck so I'm bungling my way through a diy one...I'm also doing a writing slope by a company that also does a trunk that opens...the quality is really rather nice even though it's cardboard. Anyway, long story short, what about this one by the same company? https://www.thelittledollhousecompany.com/dollhouses-miniatures-furniture-kits/miniature-furniture-accessories-diy-kits-c-262/miniature-steamer-trunk-with-lift-out-tray-kit-for-dollhouses-p-14296
  24. $60 seems about right. It looks like MDF to me. It will be heavy..There is no internal door downstairs (that always bugs me), But there is one upstairs, so that's good. I like that it has stairs going to the attic - that is not common. You'll need to fix up all the stairs. But $60 seems good - and you can add a cute conservatory or green house off to the side. I think the floors are printed and not real wood. Yes - go get it. You can start furnishing it right away and having fun!
  25. They're lovely. They would feel right at home in my 1890s Bohemian Inn.
  1. Load more activity
  • Create New...