I'm not sure if this will be useful to anyone, but I thought I would add a wood framing tutorial. I'm not a carpenter by any stretch of the imagination, so if I get any of the terminology wrong, by all means, please let me know.

First, I don't own a table saw (yet) so I start by making a jig for cutting studs and spacers. I use a thick board (at least 3/16" or thicker) as the jig block and glue a 1/8" x 3/8" board along the edge. I next measure 9 3/4" and 10" on the glued down board. I then glue a 2nd and 3rd board along the end of the first at those two measurements in that order with a 4th board that runs along the length of the block with 3/4" space between it and the 1st board. All you have to do to make studs is to set a board in one of those two slots and cut the board at the end with a modeler's or craft saw. The 10" boars are "king studs" (they go on the end of each wall) and the 9 3/4" boards are "jack studs". I usually use a 3/8" x 3/8" board for the king studs as they're either wall ends or corners. At the other end of the block I measure off 1" and glue a board at that location for the spacer jig. They're the boards that go between the studs along the runs.

My walls aren't true 2 x 4 walls. I use 1/8" x 3/8" boards to frame houses. That extra 1/8" of space is just right for electrical connections and doorframes. I start by measuring off the length of the wall I want to build and deduct 3/4" (for the 2 king studs) and cut 3 runs at that length. If there is a doorway in the plans I'll determine where the door will be and cut two runs accordingly. Next I glue a jack stud onto each of the king studs, centered with a 1/8" space at each end. I then mark the ends of each run at 1/8" and mark the run at intervals of 1", 1/8" until I reach the doorway or far end of the run. I usually line up the corresponding run along the first and use it as a guide to mark the intervals. I glue spacers over each of the pre-marked 1" intervals. I usually wrap all of these parts with masking tape until the glue dries, otherwise the boards may slide or warp from the moisture in the glue and dry misaligned. After everything has dried I'll dry-fit the jack studs into the 1/8" gaps along the runs. While it isn't necessary, I like to make a center run for each wall. I have been told that in real woodframing these are fire breaks, meant to slow the progress of a house fire, but I'm not certain that is the case. I like the added stability, so I install them. One way is to glue spacers in between each stud at the mid-point. The other option is to cut 1/8" notches half way through each jack stud at the mid-point and cut corresponding notches out of the center run. Either way, the state building inspector isn't going to pay anyone a visit anytime soon, so it doesn't really matter. After confirming that everything fits properly, I disassemble the wall and then glue everything in place, startng with the jack studs and runs. I secure the assembly with masking tape and set on a flat surface with a 1 gallon paint can or other heavy object to prevent warping.