If joins are stubborn, a LIGHT tap with a hammer can often fix this.After gluing, quickly clean up any excess glue with a damp paper towel or rag.Doing the Walls & FloorsSection A. Walls and Floors1. I removed the pieces for A from their sheets. They removed very easily with just an occasional help from the craft knife in the perforations. I sanded any rough edges. The plywood was smooth and needed no filling with spackle or wood filler.2. I have not decided what I will use on the floors. Since I may leave them just plywood, I stained the 1st, 2nd, and Attic Floors with MinWax Golden Oak stain. (This is not a water cleanup). I worked quickly. I put on one coat with a throw-away foam brush, brushing in the direction of the grain. I immediately took a paper towel, rubbed the stained floor sideways to even out the color and to remove any excess stain. I then checked to see if any spots needed a touch up. At this point, I left the area to let the stain dry for a couple of hours and to let the smell evaporate. I then gave the floors 2 coats of low-gloss polyurethane and sanded lightly between coats. I did a final check that the color was even. The wood did not warp as I was staining.3. I painted the 2nd Floor ceiling with two coats of flat latex white paint. I used house paint. (If it is not smooth and evenly colored, you can give it another coat.) I sanded lightly after painting. The wood did not warp as I was painting.4. I stained the 1st Floor ceiling with Golden Oak. I thought this type of house could look interesting with a wooden ceiling. Now I am not so sure since the ceiling is only 8” tall and a “wood” ceiling could overwhelm the rooms. I will see how it looks when I test fit the house. I may paint it white after all.5. I have not decided on wall treatments, so I did not prime the walls yet.6. Steps 2 – 4 went smoothly. 7. Before doing step 5, I carefully looked at the Center Wall pieces. After I put the 2nd floor in, I wanted to put them in quickly and with no surprises.8. Step 5 had a problem. The Second Floor started to slide in, and then got stuck; I could not push it in nor get it out. Eventually, with great care, I removed it. I enlarged the slots in width and height and slid it into place with a few LIGHT taps of the hammer – a few anxious moments, here. 9. Step 6 (the Center Wall) worked well but I had to enlarge the slot in that piece. I added a picture of the placement of the Center Wall Extension which confused me for a moment.10. Step 8, the Left Front Wall offered no problems. 11. I know the instructions have you do the Staircase Subassembly here. I will not put in the staircase at this point because it is very difficult to paint or wallpaper once the stairs are in. Thus I went to Section C – Walls (continued)Section C. Walls (continued)1. For Step 1, the Left Wall just needed some adjustment to the tabs. The rest of this section had no problems except I had to enlarge the slots in the middle of the attic floor. Note: I glued the 2 “Partial Back” walls to the house back wall edges and the Foundation Back. Also, the only Partial Back Wall to which the attic can be glued is the Left Partial Wall, not both Partial Walls (Step 6).2. It begins to look like a house! I have decided that I like the stained ceiling in the Living Room, but I don't know about the Kitchen - Dining Area. 3. The next sections in the instructions have you do many things before attaching the roof. I will do the Roof (Section N) next because if the house is not “square” and/or there is any problem fitting the roof, I have found these problems best handled if the house is as “flexible” as possible. Also, the house is the most secure when the roof is attached. I will then go back and follow the instructions in order. These are my personal preferences. The house can be built by doing the steps in the order indicated on the Instruction sheet. http://www.greenleafdollhouses.com/forum/\html\style_emoticons\/tongue.png' alt=':p'> Complements of judithfa